Will 22.5 X 8.25 hub piloted simulators work on my bus? I'm not sure if my bus is stud or hub piloted.
Charlie if I remember right yours is stud pilot! Do you have the inner nut and outter nut set pu on the drives? Or is it just one nut holding both wheels on? By all rights your bus would have come from the factory with stud pilot wheels. But then again by all right your bus didn't come from the factory with an 8V92 DDEC and Atec trans either! LOL! ;D BK ;D
can I make them work?
The stud holes in a hub piloted cover will be too small to fit over the stud piloted studs. Well, I am about 90% sure this is correct LOL. Best check the hole & stud diameters. Jack
Quote from: Charley Davidson on August 16, 2008, 08:26:22 PM
can I make them work?
Ya with a smoke wrench, cut off saw, sawzall, bailing wire & a welder anything is possible! ;D BK ;D
OK now seriously yup you probably could enlarge the holes and make 'em fit.
But is it gonna be easy to enlger the holes, is it gonna look right? Is it gonna cause the lugnuts to work loose? I can't honestly answer those questions! But yes the could be made to work. Question is "how much effort is it worth & will they be safe when done?"
Either I'm too cheap or my sniper program sucks cause I got outbid at the last minute. I bid 159.99 and they sold for 160 something. Now that the bus is all polished I desperately need them for the drive and tag.
Quote from: Charley Davidson on August 19, 2008, 08:57:14 AM
Now that the bus is all polished I desperately need them for the drive and tag.
>
>
8)
Quote from: Charley Davidson on August 19, 2008, 08:57:14 AM
Either I'm too cheap or my sniper program sucks cause I got outbid at the last minute. I bid 159.99 and they sold for 160 something.
I know the feeling it kinda sucks don't it.
I got out bid in the last sec by Kylie4104 just the other day myself.
QuoteKylie4104
Is that kyle4501's alter ego? :o :o :o
Quote from: buddydawg on August 19, 2008, 10:48:59 AM
QuoteKylie4104
Is that kyle4501's alter ego? :o :o :o
Nope.
But I've been out bid by them too. . . .
(edit to add:)
BTW, If you get outbid by me, you must be looking for them to give it to you. ;D :o
Quote from: Charley Davidson on August 19, 2008, 08:57:14 AM
Either I'm too cheap or my sniper program sucks cause I got outbid at the last minute. I bid 159.99 and they sold for 160 something. Now that the bus is all polished I desperately need them for the drive and tag.
Maybe they used a sniping service also? Hmmm, wonder what happens if both buyers use the same sniping service?? The service I use has a default setting to bid with 5 seconds to go. I can change this setting to a shorter time. Jack
If the bidding is higher than your snipe bid at the time your bid is to be entered, it can't enter yours.
It sold for more than your snipe, so looks like you are cheap. :o No wonder we get along . . . ;D
All snipe bidding does is minimize the effect of bidders who bid to be highest rather than bidding what it's worth to them.
I bid what it's worth to me & expect to be out bid. Nice surprise when I am high bidder. 8)
Ed, no pictures till I'm done with the painting , Sorry ::)
Kyle likes to buy stuff Canadian penny to the dollar ;D
Quote from: Charley Davidson on August 19, 2008, 11:38:33 AM
Kyle likes to buy stuff Canadian penny to the dollar ;D
Darn right I do! 8)
Don't always work out that way tho . . .
Shoot Kyle's so cheap he asks for a tax deductable receipt on thing that are given to him! LOL! ;D BK ;D
By the way the most useful thing I find about a snipe program is it knocks out the "shill bididng" to run your bids up by the seller or friends! FWIW!
Help!
I thought the snip programs were dead. My eBay has a "max" bid entry and it only increments if the bid goes up and then only enuf to be the highest bidder. My snipe program used to work that way also so what is....?
I tried to get my snipe program up closer to the end of bidding time and I didn't give it enuf time to actually place my bid. I needed the full 5 seconds and I got outbid lotsa times.
What do I search under to look at "snipe" software?
Thanks
John
The solution I took regarding wheel covers was to purchase 6 identicle universal fit steer wheel simulators from a company called RVwheel. These simulators dont attach to the studs or any where near the studs. Instead they are fastened to an expanding ring that is installed to inside lip of the wheel. Using this attachment method allowed the use of 6 identicle covers. Same cover on the drive, tag and steer wheels. Having the same covers on the drive and tag wheels look great. Other benifit of using steer wheel covers all around is cost. Steer wheel covers are must less expensive. Total cost for all covers was around $500. Below is there website and call for best pricing. Kenny
http://www.rvwheel.com/22unfit10lug.html
Kenny, I can't tell from the photo, did you extend the valve stems? Or are the covers easy to take off and put back on when checking tire pressures routinely?
No valve stem extensions. Just remove the covers. They're held on with 5 or 6 fasteners that take a special allen wrench type tool with a hole in the center. Makes it harder to steal. A wrench comes with each set of covers. I can take a picture of the expanding ring that is assembled to the lip on the wheel that the cover fastens to if you wish. - Kenny
Oh another thing, take note of the previous picture I posted. The tag wheel (rearmost) is out even with the drive wheel. Not inset like most tag wheels. Had special rims made. - Kenny
John Ed, try auction stealer.com. I use the premium service and use the 3 second time and only lose a item when the amount I put in is not sufficent. Not perfect but usually works. John
Junkman,
Thank you. I will try it tomorrow.
John