I am almost ready to start the prime and paint stage, but I have a
question.
In removing the paint on the rear section above the engine door and
below the rear cap, I noticed some round circles of paint cracking.
After removing the problem I now how two large round holes. What did
you do to cover them up?
I realize they were for some rear lights but don't have any pictures.
Thanks,
Paul
Paul,
What is the base material where the holes are?
Alum, stain, or fiberglass.....makes a difference when you go to patch it up :)
Skip
The crack in the shape of a circle indicates that the prior patch is not 100% tight. What this means is if the base material is alum or steel you must weld a solid patch in the hole before filling with bondo. If it is fibreglass you need to 'glass a solid patch across the hole. You will need a solid piece to span the opening. The key is the patch must me solid and no cracks, rust or allow any water to enter from the back.
Fibreglassing is not difficult but can be tricky. Remember you can always grind out anything you don't like!
Good Luck.
The base material is aluminum. The problem is this area is not flat. It has quite a curve in it. I cannot weld aluminum, never have in the past, don't want to learn on this.
The PO had placed some fiberglass patches in the holes. Not to be critical, but it was not a very good job.
I'll post some pics as soon as I cool off and have an adult beverage, it's darn hot here in Texas! ;D
Thanks,
Paul
Ok, I feel better now. ::)
Here is a pic of the rear showing the two holes, and they aint small either. Saw one Eagle who ran his exhaust through those holes. Don't think I want to tackle that one. ;D
I know welding aluminum is best, what's the next best?
Thanks,
Paul
Paul you could probably get away with putting some sheet aluminum behind the holes and rivet them in place. After secured, you can bondo the holes up and finish off just as if you were doing a custom car body! If done good enough, you would be the only one that knew they were there! :)
Ace
The only other option you could consider is to rivet patches over the holes. And just leave the hard edge exposed and painted. You can not cover this seam with bondo as the vibration will generate a crack in the paint. However I would rather preserve the clean lines of your bus with a smooth repair.
It is quite easy to hammer a curve in a piece of alum to fit from the inside. Take the pieces to a welder and I guessing about $50-75 if you find the right guy. Then rough up the whole area with 40 grit grinder. Add bondo and prep for paint. Remember that when you paint aluminum you must use a prep to etch the alum and a special primer. Sanding on this outside curve is easier than other areas. If you are not experienced or want to do the body work that job will not be very expensive at a shop.
Ace, buddy. Great intentions but the vibration will crack the bondo. (Used to be a bodyman. ;) )
Fred I agree but what do I know!!! ;)
Ace
Paul, the way Hobie is describing is how Dick did his tail lights on his 01 Eagle and after years you can not see any trace were the tail lights were and his is painted black
Thanks Guys for the help!
I will get a hold of a guy that I know who can do the welding on the aluminum, and take it from there. He is a new member on the board and has an MCI 9 here in Abilene. (He said it will only cost me a case of his favorite beverage) ;D Isn't that a sweet deal. :D
I just want it done right, and I guess that's the way. I sure don't want any cracks to appear after all I've done to prep the coach for paint. It's so close. It's only taken a year for me to get it this far. This is the last area before I can prime and paint this bird.
Paul