BCM Community

Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: Chariotdriver on July 21, 2008, 06:09:31 AM

Title: Temps, Sensors and wiring.
Post by: Chariotdriver on July 21, 2008, 06:09:31 AM
 
We just made a trip from the previous owner in Key West to my home in South MS and was pretty much of an uneventful drive other than a few fuel filter issues.
  There are numerous gauges not working and need some trouble shooting to get going again.
Sorry for all the uninformed questions below.
We bought this lower priced bus to be able to see if we as a family liked traveling and thought this would be a good idea before jumping into a conversion project.

1. The speed odometer is all over the place (VDO) and swings widely and I think that this might be a loose connection somewhere down the line, where does this tie into so I'll know where to poke around?
2. The transmission temp is inoperative and I looked down under that area and saw a cable hanging with about 2-3 wires dangling on the end. I thought that this might be it and when I looked closer on the drivers side I noticed that there are 2 sensors, 1 with 2 connections, 1 with 1 connection and some wire hanging, but not connected there either. So running without temp on the tranny at this point.
3. We did buy a oil pressure sending unit to confirm the oil pressure before purchasing it and it runs at 20 on warm idle and up to 60 on revs.
4. The water temp seems to be working both in the cockpit and also the engine bay. What should this be running on a 6v92, just roughly as we were seeing from 180-225 depending on how hard we were pushing it. We had to hold back on keeping up with traffic due to what we thought might be overheating problems and we did not want to blow it up on the first trip. Might need to have the radiator cleaned possibly or the impeller on the water pump changed? Opinions?
5. I would thinks that there would be a RPM tachometer (is that statement redundant) and might be helpful to see what the engine is doing before I see it in the odometer.
6. I plan on having the tranny drained and serviced as I'm not sure what type of fluids he was using and I found out that there were some Dexron III along with some other types of fluid like ATF.
7 It looks like the generator is getting fuel from the main lines coming to the engine and returning back the same way. Someone told me that this should be getting fuel directly back from the tanks and returning there also due to possibly starving the fuel to the main engine.
Any help on any of these would be appreciated.
Phil
Title: Re: Temps, Sensors and wiring.
Post by: edroelle on July 21, 2008, 10:02:32 AM
I will input on some items.

3.  If driving down the road, your oil pressure is above 40 PSI, you should be good.

4.  Coolant temp should be lower, maybe 210 max.  There should be a shut down about 215-220 as I remember.  Too hot and you will have a very expensive bill.  If the radiators are not in very good to excellent shape, consider replacing them.  Enjoy your trips without fighting high temperatures.

6.  Unless you are towing very heavy trailers, the latest Dextron will be fine for the Allison 740.

7.  Generator and Webasto furnaces should have their own fuel taps.

Ed Roelle
Flint, MI
Title: Re: Temps, Sensors and wiring.
Post by: makemineatwostroke on July 21, 2008, 10:13:13 AM
little from me too  200 degrees is max operating for a 92 series alarm should come on at 210 and shut down at 220 

A good place to check on different oil for the Allison is  www.utxchange.com 
dexron
transynd  10+ dollars a quart for 40+ quarts
C4 15/40 engine oil 
a lot of different oil can be used in Allison if it a 740
Title: Re: Temps, Sensors and wiring.
Post by: Sammy on July 21, 2008, 02:16:06 PM
Phil, welcome to the board.
What kind of coach did you buy?




Title: Re: Temps, Sensors and wiring.
Post by: Chariotdriver on July 22, 2008, 03:43:09 AM
Quote from: Sammy on July 21, 2008, 02:16:06 PM
Phil, welcome to the board.
What kind of coach did you buy?






I bought a 83 Silver Eagle with a 6v92 @ a HT 740.
Not exactly what I wanted on the inside but thought we'd
try it to see if we liked busing around before
going big.
Title: Re: Temps, Sensors and wiring.
Post by: Dreamscape on July 22, 2008, 03:59:13 AM
Great to have another Eagle owner on the board!

Quote from: Chariotdriver on July 22, 2008, 03:43:09 AM
Quote from: Sammy on July 21, 2008, 02:16:06 PM
Phil, welcome to the board.
What kind of coach did you buy?






I bought a 83 Silver Eagle with a 6v92 @ a HT 740.
Not exactly what I wanted on the inside but thought we'd
try it to see if we liked busing around before
going big.


And the Eagle isn't big enough? Just kidding!

We own an Eagle 01 and far from an expert on them. But there are a lot very knowledgeable Eagle folk here so ask away.

Do you have any manuals for yours? If not you should invest in them. eBay has them and also Silver Eagle in Brownsville.

Good Luck with your new toy,

Paul
Title: Re: Temps, Sensors and wiring.
Post by: Sammy on July 22, 2008, 05:09:10 PM
Phil, how is your radiator fan driven - shaft, hydraulic motor,or something else?
I wrenched on a fleet that had 6 Eagle Model 15's.They had hydraulic fan motors on radiator and a/c condenser that were powered by a belt driven hydraulic pump - on drivers side in engine compt.When fluid level got low, fan motor would not spin fast enough to cool radiator, causing engine shut down - overtemp. Something to consider, if you have hydraulic fan motors on yours.
Title: Re: Temps, Sensors and wiring.
Post by: Barn Owl on July 22, 2008, 05:25:28 PM
1. Use a GPS. I don't even look at my speedometer anymore. A GPS is more versatile and less expensive than many of your other options. I have been to downtown D.C. twice in a bus and couldn't do it without one.
Title: Re: Temps, Sensors and wiring.
Post by: Chariotdriver on July 22, 2008, 07:22:57 PM
Quote from: Sammy on July 22, 2008, 05:09:10 PM
Phil, how is your radiator fan driven - shaft, hydraulic motor,or something else?
I wrenched on a fleet that had 6 Eagle Model 15's.They had hydraulic fan motors on radiator and a/c condenser that were powered by a belt driven hydraulic pump - on drivers side in engine compt.When fluid level got low, fan motor would not spin fast enough to cool radiator, causing engine shut down - overtemp. Something to consider, if you have hydraulic fan motors on yours.
This is a Model 10 with a 15 front cap, or so I've been told.
The fans are driven from the miterbox off the back of the engine.
It looks like the belts need to be replaced as the inner flat side looks like it is splitting and flaking.
  I have a appointment Monday morning to take it in to a truck service center to have it looked at and they are supposed to go over that to see what can be determined.


Title: Re: Temps, Sensors and wiring.
Post by: bobofthenorth on July 23, 2008, 09:56:11 AM
I think the biggest problem with having the gennie t'd into the fuel pickup is that you could drain the fuel tank while running the genset.  That's how ours is set up and the only time it has ever been a problem was when the check valve was failing.  Then the genset would drain the fuel filter and it would turn into a hard start the next time we started the big noisemaker.  I don't really know how big my fuel tank is - I treat it as if it was a 100 gallon tank and go looking for fuel when it hits 1000 km elapsed.  My fuel gauge gives a random indication that is somewhat correlated to fuel remaining but I have never trusted it completely.  For all we use the genset, running the fuel tank down has simply never been an issue.

Your flaky speedo sounds like a bad connection at the pickup.  I'd take it apart and clean everything and then put it back together.  If I had done that when we first bought this coach then I wouldn't be carrying a spare speedo pickup right now.  I bought a new one because I was convinced that must be the problem and then cleaned up the old one and it has worked just fine ever since. 

My tach got increasingly flaky and I eventually replaced it with one that takes its signal off the alternator.  That was dead simple to do - there was a pin on the alternator that puts out AC signal and I just boogied up a connection to that pin.