I mighta screwed up. :P (go figure)
Do any of you guys know how much coolant goes into the cooling system? I was under the impression it was 29 gallons, but my manual says 98 qts. (24 1/2 gallons)
Yesterday I put the radiator back in and connected everything back up. ( I had drained the lowest line to the tranny cooler, the engine heads and the radiator) I filled her up with straight water and took her out for about a 20 mile run to make sure she was sealed. She was.
When I got back, the water was still to the same point in the surge tank as when I left, and I had heat to the front heater. I drained those same points and sealed them back up. I put in 12 gallons of antifreeze and a half gallon of Wix Precharged......whatever stuff. ::) ;)
This morning, I filled those same antifreeze jugs with water that I filtered thru my home water filter. (I know, it's not distilled or rev. osmos. but I think it will be ok ;)) But I could only put in 3 gallons!!
I was thinking there may be an air pocket somewhere but I did the same thing as I did earlier and didn't have one. The only other thing that could be is that there was still water in there somewhere. Bummer. I was really hoping I had gotten this done exactly right.
Any thoughts?
Chaz
there are purge valves at the top of the engine the top of the heater core and at the defroster core
Don't sweat it yet.
Take a sample out of one of those convenient drains and test it for the freeze/boil protection.
you might be ok and not know it?
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Since the system was drained, you definitely need to purge the air out of it as Teke noted.
A PO apparently removed the purge valve that goes to the "puke tank". There is just a s.s. braided hose there. From reading the manual, I'd say that isn't necessarily good. But, the motor should have purged itself since it's not there.
I just took it to lunch and the temp shows great. I'm going to let it cool and then start checking again. First I'll make sure I have enough coolant and that it didn't push the bubble thru.
The defroster core is fine, but J. Vickers from the other board reminded me that the original heater system has been removed and that can account for some of it. (I wonder how much tho?)
That's a good point Buswarrior. If I have the temp for what would be a 50/50 mix, somehow I didn't get it drained enough. (don't know how tho) But if it tests like what I put in it - 12 gallons coolant, 3 gallons water - I got a bubble.
Thanx guys,
Chaz
Chaz,
There should be a bleeder valve, (petcock), on the piece above the water pump that crosses over to the other head.
Here is a picture of the one on an 8V92 in an MCI, but it will be the same as the GMC, 6V71, 6V92, 8V71, etc. Look at the pipe that goes between the heads at the spot centered in the belt.
Some of the 92's don't have a bleeder, haven't figured out why, but someone may have changed yours out to another that didn't have one.
Even though you've bled the air from the defroster and the heater core, you'll still find a lot of air over time. Also remember, if the thermostat doesn't have coolant to it, the temperature sender isn't going to read correctly.
I'm not certain what has happened to the water you put in there, but I think 12-15 gallons is all that the engine holds. Are you sure the valves are open to the lines going forward?
Just thinking outloud.
Dallas
Dallas,
Did you forget to put that pic in your poast? ;) Just curious.
I still have issues. (besides those !!! ::) ;D ;D ;D) I'm going to post it in the other thread I started.
Thanx Chaz
My MC9 with 6V92 only took about 12 gallons of premix.
and that was with all the bleeders opened and vented.
My factory heat system was removed previously.
I would guess that your bus is similar in that respect.???
Dave...
Darn, don't know why the picture didn't come through, I'll try again!
???
Chaz...I believe your 8/71 DD is on a slant. Always look for highest point that can trap air and bleed via either bleeder or loosen hose clamp or housing or casting's bolt enough to let out bubble until only liquid to come out then tighten. Better yet have the engine running if you can still get into to bleed it. Usually there more than one air pockets around the engine.
Anyone on board have photo of a slant DD engine to post here or send it to me and I can edit it the location points. Then post it or someone may already done it? ? ?
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
Here's a couple pix of my motor. Unless I am really blind I don't think I have the tube of which you guys speak. There is a braided s.s. steel line that goes from the stat. housing to puke tank that should bleed the air off at a top point. I believeTeke mentioned it should have a valve on it which you can open and close but someone musta removed it.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi58.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg279%2FSkulptor%2FMotor%2520Coach%2FDSCN1488.jpg&hash=26ad0a2d3473c4ac0795151c08d8dbfa17ed741c)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi58.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg279%2FSkulptor%2FMotor%2520Coach%2FDSCN1489.jpg&hash=6922eb98a9bc5b25a5654a5bd9f30cf88cabb4ba)
Sorry, you have to tilt your head to the left and then to the right to see the pix correctly. Photobucket won't let me change the thumbnail to show them correctly.
But as you can see, I think, the s.s. line should have bled the air off.
Dave,
Hopefully you are correct. I did have to put 1 more gallon of water in it after we got home.
Thanx for the idea Sojourner
Chaz, You are correct. ;D
The air bleed on your thermostat housing is the top fitting and the S/S flex line to the surge tank.
Question did I see a capillary tube going to a mechanical gage in the photo?
If so what temperature did it read when you had your latest overheat condition?
Also have you had the bus out for a test drive since you added the 1 gallon of coolant?
jlv ::)
Tex,
Yeah, the coiled shiny "line" goes to the mechanical gauge. I did not see the temp when it got hot this last round. I was on the hiway with a bunch of friends that had their "snoot full" and just wanted to get them home. I stopped on the side of the road and just made sure I hadn't blown a line or something. I just took it easy and made it the last 7 or so miles without any trouble.
Nope, I haven't had her out since I added the water. I would suspect I "may" have to drive her aways to get her to get that hot again........... At least I would think so based on that last trip. (80 miles up- no problem. 73 miles into the trip on the way home-red light.) Do you think a mere gallon of water could cause that?? I wouldn't think so, but then again, I'm no DD mechanic.
I'm frustrated. I may just have to take it in and have someone tell me about the stupid small little thing that I missed or that I need a complete overhaul. Either way, I'm going to feel like a turd.
I'm open for ideas tho!! I'll try whatever.
Thanx again,
Chaz
Chaz,
Per the maintenance manual the overheat temperature switch will remain open at temperatures below 210 degrees F.
If the engine temperature rises to 210 degrees to 214 degrees the contact points will close and you will get the overheat tell tale light and alarm buzzer.
Take the old bus out again and see if it overheats at 60 to 65MPH no faster and if it does have a over heat condition again check you mechanical temperature indicator in the engine compartment.
Now I noted that your engine has the mechanical fan so that not your over heat problem so you can rule that out.
Before I would go pointing at the worn old 8V/71? that might be causing the overheat problem.Also you might try installing a 8V/92 water pump assembly and see if this helps.
I think that I would install a a good quality air to oil transmission oil cooler (Hayden)? and see if this cures the overheat problem.
Do the simple and cheapest things 1st before going into the more costly items like a new or overhauled engine.
Keep me posted.
jlv
QuoteDo the simple and cheapest things 1st before going into the more costly items like a new or overhauled engine.
Always good advice, but I'm under the impression that a DD mechanic can pretty much tell if the ol'girl is needing freshened up. (compression, looking at the cylinders via the inspection openings, etc.)
I'm with Teke on that it "should" be just fine if everything is in good shape without having to add anything else. Putting on a trany cooler would be easy enough, and I'm up for that, because it'll help the ol'girl out, but I can't imagine that being why it gets hot.... ya know?! It wasn't a problem up until now for me, and the P.O. (I would guess) had good luck with it the way it is.
Maybe the pump just needs attention. ??? ??? Ya know....... I can't find the pump in the manual. Is it called something besides water pump? I don't even know what it looks like. ::) :)
Thanx again Tex,
Chaz
Hey Dallas,
If ya get back anywhere close to me, stop by. I need "schoolin". ::) ;D ;D ;D But don't make a special trip. Fuel is not worth it. I don't have my calender with me, but I don't "THINK" I have another trip till the first of Aug.
Thanx bud.
Chaz, Look in your engine maintenance manual, if it's the same as mine, "Cooling System" section starts on page 87.
Dunno when or if we'll be down. Long story.
I used the picture that you posted and picked out the water pump for you. :D
Dallas,
Thanx Buddy.
We must have different manuals. Mine is for a 4108 and 4905 and is in sections. Section 6 is the cooling section and it just isn't there.
I suspected that was the pump and I just all but confirmed it reading the pump thread that was just posted. ;D (Timing is everything) Do you think I should take a look at it? I figure I may as well since I'm running out of options.
That's ok if you're busy. I know how that can be. But if ya get by this way, just let me know. I NEED some "schoolin". ;D ;D
Otherwise I may have to wait till I can get to a good rally where I can get it. ;) Arcadia comes to mind. But that is pretty far off. :-\
Thanx again,
Chaz
Aha!
You need a V71 series engine Maintenance manual, not the Coach maintenance manual! ;)
I'll send you a PM on how to get one.
Dallas
;D ;D
Now we're talking apples to apples. ;D