im in a big jam here in kingsman az the engine i just put in had a severe over heat enough to seize the engine. im here with my family we were on the way to las vegas from nc for vacation. i had the bus towed to the freight liner dealer here but there not sure they can work on it gmc 8v71 1961 model. who can work on it around here and not rip me off? has anyone had this happen what damage would be done? i need to get it fixed asap. were between flagstaff and las vegas thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I hate to say it, but you might be looking at an overhaul of the engine, maybe with new heads, since the 8V-71's heads are prone to heat cracking in the bridges between the valves. It's too bad you didn't stop to let it cool.
You might consider having the bus towed to Phoenix to Williams Detroit Diesel. Give them a call in the morning to see if they have a mechanic to work on it. If all fails, paying to have the bus put on a flat bed and taken to Bakersfield, Ca. to have Don Fairchild work on it (he did my motor and is a wizard at detroits) might also be worth the tow bill. Don's phone is- 661-391-4520. At least call him-he knows the good shops around. Good Luck, TomC
WE WERE HAVING problems heating up we kept stopping to let it cool . we had been losing water lots of it but not leaking out i suspected a blow head gasket the temp was running around 225 then we saw it come up to 240 then back down to 225 then seizer. looks like the temp guage got a steam lock or air lock and did not read correctly.
For the future readers of archives...
Do not run your DD above 210-215.
Confirm the accuracy of your temperature gauge.
Be sure your "hot engine" warning sensor and light is functional.
repace the sensor: cheap insurance if unknown previous owner or unknown preventive maintenance.
Coolant consumption is bad!
happy coaching!
buswarrior
prognisis is not good, If your gauge was anywhere near accurate your heads are toast, loss of coolant is bad bad bad.....and obviously uyour hot engine shutdown was inop.
If Don can't help you in bakersfield Delaney and Ahlf is a DD shop who likely has 2 stroke experience.
honestly, it is probably cheaper to truck in an engine that you know runs and have it bolted in. rather than tearing down and rebuilding and replacing heads.
If all else fails, I know PEDCO in Santa Fe Springs, CA (near LA) can help. (562) 944-3199, ask for Virgil Cooley, and tell him you got the recommendation here on the board.
They've got the parts to fix your motor, and they've got motors they can just drop in. They also have their own Landoll and will probably give you a reasonable tow rate if they do the work. You're close enough that Sean (the Landoll driver) can be out and back within a day. Virgil's been very good about letting us stay in the bus while we've had work done there, and you can easily be looking at three or four days to have the motor in-framed or swapped.
HTH, and good luck.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
Try Andy in Needles Ca (A & A Diesel) his number is in the directory and also Freightliner in Needles has 2 good mechanics for 2 strokes but Andy will have the parts on hand and will come to you the gentleman is a great DD mechanic, Kingman is about 40 miles from him plus he may have a 8v71 on hand at his shop.If you call Freightliner in Needles ask for Marvin he does a lot of engine work on his days off sorry I don't have numbers for you
Hope this helps,
Bad to have a road failure. :'(
I called Nick Liberti at Nimco in Newark,NJ
1-800-526-8055
He has running take out left hand rotation 8/V71's for $2700.00 plus shipping.
He said give him a call.He can help you out.
jlv ;D
You have gotten good input.
What has not been said, maybe because it is so obvious, is that you have to find out what is wrong with the cooling system that caused the problem. As has been said, you DO NOT want the engine over 210 degrees!!!
I would have the radiator pulled while the engine is being worked on and have it checked. My gut feeling is that you will need a new core unless it has recently been replaced. New radiator fin technology can add significantly to the cooling capacity.
On my Eagle, the tubes were not clogged, but the fins had loosened from the tubes and the heat transfer path was compromised.
All of this costs lots of money, but you simply can not stick another engine in (or rebuild yours) and then fry it again.
So many of these threads never get updated. Please keep us posted on how you resolve the problem. We all care and learn for others experiences.
Jim
do not forget B&B coach in Las Vegas
They may have people they know who can help
Gary and Dan try them
Melbo
What has happened so far-we all want to know?! Good Luck, TomC
You have two very good and reasonable places there in Kingman just for your info I just did a inframe complete 3 months total Bill was a tad over 9,000 dollars took it back to new specs. But find out what caused your heat problem and coolant loss first a take out will probably be cheapest route.
Larry Higuera
Quartzsite AZ currently in Harrisburg OR
Don Fairchild seems to be the "gold standard" in trusted/knowledgable names for two cycles. If I were going to R&R the engine I would want one of his engines if I could get it. Maybe he can ship you one or rec a friend that can test the one they come up with out there. It would be in your best interest to have him involved and get him to at least "look" at your rig if you can find a reason to go by his shop. I think a competant mech would have spotted your inop "overtemp emergency shut down" circuit so I guess it is proven that you need an inspection. Did you know that there is an emergency "low oil pressure shut down" circuit? Low air pressure alarm and brake lock up? So much more.
HTH,
John
Update us all on what has happened! Good Luck, TomC
I suspect a murder suicide story???????????
or
wife made him leave the bus and they flew home on the condition he would never speak the dreaded word bus again
Did any body ever hear what came out of this big jam?