I have been lurking for the past year. You might ask why. I have been working and then selling the house then my selling business and am now consulting for the (I hope) short future to the new buyer.
But, I digress...I could not perform heavy structural work and did not want to tackle the extensive upgrades 'She' wanted for our 1993 H3. (Series 60 with 740)
We took it to Virginia Custom Coach in Christiansburg, VA and now hope that an end is in sight. There has been a considerable expense but I was prepared for it. I hope to drive it home early this winter. I have many parts in the wings waiting.
I have been always been on the road to 2 Coleman basement airs. This weekend Mike at VCC told me about his disappointing experience with his basement air units...not enough return air causing freeze ups and not being able to push air from the basement up a duct, into the ceiling and then front to rear, etc.
I am wavering to roof tops. I want basement units. I know--It is my final decision. I have looked at the archives. Even one that I started.
Maybe with a little more assistance (from Nick?) I can have my smooth top roof - I have a hatch for a deck.
Pictures!!!
http://picasaweb.google.com/ddickens69/BusConversion
I have no experience with colman units....but I suspect they were designed for a smaller S&S unit rather than a 40 foot coach.
If you want a clean roof....I would suggest split units. I have three coaches with them and all will freeze you out easily in mid summer heat
DebDav ... you need to talk to Nick Badame (mod on this site) I'm sure he'll chime it. Nice looking coach by the way ... glad you're making head way with it.
Ron
Hi DebDave,
You have to look into the Dometic basement airs and you will see a big difference in proformance.
The Coleman's are 26,000 btu's and only have 400 cfm fan power. The 15,000 btu Dometic HP's have 450 cfm each and I have a design that uses 2- 15's stacked.
I"m pretty sure that over 15 members here now have taken on my design that will give you 900 cfm and a true 2 1/2 tons [30,000btu's] Using the coach
return tunnel will give you more then enough return for both systems. I ducted the supply's overhead with 12 registers but, you have alot of options on
supply vents weather you want overhead or another route. 1 system does the job in most conditions and the second system kicks in when temps are above 90 deg's.
On the heat side, one system will do the whole bus down to 35 deg's. I have a redundant Hydronic coil that is in the return duct that is diesel fired hot water coil
that kicks in below 35 deg's.
Let me know if you have further questions
Nick-
Hey Dave, looking good! I was just wondering the other day what progree you guys were making and low and behold here it is!
You have done a lot so far but still a long road ahead!
Keep us updated as you progress! I finally am to the point of using mine a little more regular, now that the electronics are bugged out and it's a real good feeling! :)
BS
Thanks for the help. I am contacting Nick for more info.
Will try to post pictures more frequently.
Dave, looks great. YOu sure are doing a lot to it, but worth it. Sweet!!
If you draw your cooling makeup air from under the bus and expel it through the side of the bus (through the bay door) it works great. My system is a dometic basement....came from Nick....works like a dream.
I'd post pictures.... but can't figure out how.
Chaz Pics neec to be resized to post there try http://www.resize2mail.com/ I use the 360X480 or
http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=179.0
Fixed link. Richard
I have to be suspicious that somebody is trying to sell you on the idea of roof a/c units because that's what they know how to install....know what I mean?
Just a thought.
Dennis
DebDav, this has nothing to do with your bus but by chance do you live in the Tomball,Pinehurst or Magnolia area north of Houston
DebDav....Great Project, Great Coach with 60 series DD. Very well reinforce design. However, how are you going to transfer the diagonal load from leading end of new "truss" to pass the bottom of slide-out opening. Maybe it already in the planning stage that is yet to be installed.
I like your 3 slide-out idea.
What power mechanism you are planning to use?
About choices of A/C system....basement type will work very well if you use properly size inlet (air return) that is larger than outlet due to cool to warm expansion ratio.
However, split A/C system use no duct work....just 2 copper lines & small wires....use less space in the basement area. No loss of cooled air through insulated "warmed" duct work. Get cold air direct from remote evaporator unit wherever it's installed in a room. They come with wireless remote control to set blower speed and air outlet flow direction as well temperature setting.
Do whatever you choose....Nick "The A/C Man" can work your way through.
Keep us posted your update.
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
We are south of Houston, in Friendswood.
The truss members rest on the supports for the bays and are designed like the HWH built truss systems. The actual truss is larger than the exisitng Prevost slide truss.
The slide operation is also designed and uses compnoents that HWH and Prevost is using. The completed system looks and acts like factory Prevost.
'She' wanted the new front cap to lose the horizontal bar dividing the windshields. Both moving and parked. That was, I hope my last major expense.
Dave I had HWH slides installed on my Eagle and my heart aches for you when you mention the the word HWH but they are worth the price and you will be happy with the units.Are you going to use a flange type or non-flange I love my mine without the flanges with the air seals makes a clean installation
A question for you Dave why would that bus have 740 all I have seen have a B500 with the s60 fwiw