Ok, now that I have my lighting, and I have my main wires, 12 volt #4 AWG and 24 volt #2 AWG , running front to back thru the tunnel, I am going to come off those main lines in each compartment with either a fuse block or breakers.................. I'm torn, breakers or fuses?
Here is a site I have been looking at: http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1.html I guess the prices there are ok, unless any of you guys know of a better place.
Some of the first breakers shown say specifically 12 volt. Then the next ones don't say the voltage. I was wondering if I could use those for 24 volt?
Speaking of which, seeing how 24 volt stuff is a little harder to find, how do I know if a 12 volt part will or will not work? (If you can, please keep it simple. Simple welder here. ::) ;) ;D ;D)
All my lighting will be 24 volt LED (rope and task). And the 12 volt line will be for stuff that I can't find in 24 volt - cell chargers, water pump, stereo, fans, the list goes on...... :)
Man is running wire thru the tunnel a "treat"... >:( ::) ... but it sure looks good,
Chaz
For my 12v light service inside, I have first a knife switch to turn off the power, then the power goes to two fuse blocks that use GM type two blade fuses. I used all pop out circuit breakers that can be bought at any Camping World or NAPA store. It was simple and cheap, and has worked well now for 10 years.
Or you can go fancy (read expensive) with Paneltronics or Blue Sea circuit breaker boards with gauges. On my next conversion, I will use these boards since they are much more compact-especially on the 120vac side. My current bus, I used square D boxes from Home Depot (3 of them-one for main [gen and land line switching] main circuit breakers, and inverter breakers) which takes alot of room, but were cheap. Good Luck, TomC
Flojet makes several water pumps in 24 volt. The Flojet Sensor VSD will do anything from 12 volt to 24 volt. They also have other pumps that are 24 volt only, but much harder to find. I found a Sensor VSD brand new on Ebay for $150 including shipping back in December. (Drop shipped direct from ITT/Flojet.)
I would just go with ATC fuses for the DC circuits. I used two Blue Seas marine fuse panels that are around $30 each. One ofr 24 volt and one for 12 volt. There is a bus bar for the negative in addition to the terminals next to each fuse.
On this bus, the 12volt has fuses. On the last one though, I had gotten a whole block of about ten breakers off a junk school bus for next to nothing. These would automatically reset.
Chaz, most all breakers are 12-24 volts the ones I bought were not marked and I am not a great electrial guy but it is my understanding after calling about the unmarked ones was that the amps are the important thing for the breaker
Chaz,
It looks to me like some of the prices may be a bit high on the site you listed. As a for instance, the Battery cut-off switch #79997 is priced at $13.48... We paid about $2.99 at Harbor Freight for the same thing. (Item # 92688).
Another question, Why would you make your 24V wiring larger than your 12V wiring, supposing that they were going to carry the same amount of amperage. If it were me, I would swap the terminals and give the 12V the larger gauge cables.
Good Luck!
DF
http://www.solarseller.com/iota_automatic_transfer_switches__iota_power_distribution_panels__inverter_load_.htm#power_distribution_panels
They have matching panels for DC & AC, all breakers can be bought anywhere, they are compact and affordable
Ray D
QuoteWhy would you make your 24V wiring larger than your 12V wiring, supposing that they were going to carry the same amount of amperage.
Opps.... good catch Dallas. ::) I got them backwards. :P I had ran downstairs to see exactly what they were and mixed them up before I got back up. Senior moment! ;D lol
I've also seen the cut-off switches for ALLOT less at other places. That's the main basis I was curious about the prices. I just wonder if the breakers or fuse blocks are reasonable.
Thanx Ray. I briefly looked at it, but I would want to find smaller ones. Maybe 4-6 circuits each as I will have one in each bay.
Thanx Guys!,
Chaz
I used small circuit breakers that I got from grainger for about 2 dollar apiece
They range in amps from 5 through 40 and are rated for a max of 32 volts dc and I know they work because I have tested them with some heavy draw motors.
Part numbers range from 4VA62 through 4VA80
They worked for me and were readily available
Melbo
Thanx Melbo.
I had not thought of looking there. Those prices are better. I was thinking there would be somewhere on the net that would be cheaper.
Now I need to figure out what sizes/amp rating I will need. ::) Oh, by the way, it says they are "functionally equivalent to ETA...". Does that mean they plug into a regular spade fuse socket? That would be cool.
Thanx again!
Chaz
If anyone is interested, Square-D type QO breakers up to 70 amps are DC rated to 50 volts. It's not shown on the breaker or package but it is in the catalog.
Chaz,
Don't know if you have any local access, but I bought a brand new, never used, console for a large Proline center console boat.
Came with about 25 sealed toggles with a pop out circuit breaker and light for each switch.
I think I paid around $40-50 for it. Maybe easier to find a better deal with sales in the dumps for many large ticket items.
I am still trying to figure out how to use the tilt/trim on my 8V71...... ;D
Cliff
Thanx Len and Cliff.
The single big panel won't work for me as I need 3 small ones for the way I am setting it up. (one in each bay off of a bus line). I'm hoping it will be easier wiring down the road if I want to add stuff. But.........then again........... I could be "p***in up a rope". ;D
I just need to figure out what size fuses/breakers I need for each circuit.
Thanx again!
Chaz
Chaz,
I am not leaving the boat panel together, but removing each switch, breaker and light as one unit, to use where needed.
All I have to add is input and output.
Cliff
Oh......... that's cool. I guess I'm just not familiar enough with all this cool stuff. But I LOVE to "make things happen". ;) ;D I did find some nice little 120v to 12v. MR16 reading lights at Lowes. I got rid of the transformers and put my 24v. LEDs in them and they work great!! I need to get a few more.
Thanx for the insight!!
Chaz
p.s. By the way, could you do my shower??!!??!! ::) lolololol :D Nice job on yours!!!
Chaz the way I did it was to install 5 or 10 amp breakers on every circuit and then upgrade the circuits that would trip breakers and be sure the wire was the right size. My electric chairs use a lot of power but not over fifteen amps. Just the way I did it. Be sure the wire is rated for the circuit by length and size.
Melbo
Thanx Melbo. That is probably how I will do it as I'm not sure how to compute it.
On the 24v LED lighting - it's my GUESS - that I can get away with 5 amp breakers/fuses. The 12 volt stuff I'll just have to read on the equiptment or figure out what I need.
Thanx,
Chaz
In addition to selecting a fuse/circuit breaker for an appliance, make sure fuse/circuit breaker does not exceed wire capacity. I think the proper numbers are 15 amp for 14 gauge, 20 amp for 12 gauge and 30 amp for 10 gauge. Length of run also is a factor. Maybe someone will post a chart? Jack
Thanx Jack.
I'll sue that as a guide and just overkill it a bit. I'd think that would be close. I'm trying to use a little oversize wire when I can.
Chaz