I have one propane appliance in my conversion. I have a RV oven/cook top and I want to install the propane system for it. Is there any thing available on the 'net where I can learn about best practices for safe and reliable propane system installation? I can create a system myself based upon all the posts I've read on this and the old MAK board, but would love to have an "all in one place" guide to review my installation plans with. Anyone have ideas on this for me?
I'd also like to install a quick connect outlet in my bay so I can hook up a portable propane grill for grilling outside of the bus.
Brian, this site www.superiorpropaneinc.com has some good info with links also George Myers has good tips in the BCM magazine
I have just two propane appliances-the stove and 35,000btu Atwood furnace. Both are next to each other with the Westchester permanent mounted 100# tank below. One of the things I put on that I really like is a 12v solenoid valve. It mounts immediately after the hand valve on the tank, then you only turn it on when you need gas with a switch inside by the stove with a gas gauge. Also, be sure to install a carbon monoxide/gas monitor low down to the floor, near the stove. Good Luck, TomC
You should get a copy of the code, ANSI/NFPA 1192. Available for a nominal cost (around $35, IIRC) from ANSI or NFPA as a PDF download. The code is there for a reason -- follow it.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
Brian,
As Sean mentioned, get the NFPA 1192. This is "the bible" on safe installation of LP systems. If you install a quick connect fitting for your portable grill, make sure the quick connect is approved for LP (not all are approved for LP). Also remember that if you are running the LP through the regulator that is part of your portable grill, you must come off the LP before any other regulators. Jack
Hi Jack, you said, "Also remember that if you are running the LP through the regulator that is part of your portable grill, you must come off the LP before any other regulators. Jack"
Can you 'splain that to us ranked 48th in the nation for schools North Carolina boys? I am puzzled a little bit.
Thanks a ton!
Jack
Is this the standard you are referring to?
http://webstore.ansi.org/RecordDetail.aspx?sku=NFPA+1192-2008
Jack,
Wouldn't it be better to run through the regulator at the tank to the grill than run a high pressure line
to the grills regulator?
I have two regulators at my tank one for each side of the bus then I will be plumbing the outside barby
from that side tank regulator without using the barby regulator.
Just a thought it is easily amendable.
Skip
Quote from: skipn on May 07, 2008, 09:54:03 AM
Jack,
Wouldn't it be better to run through the regulator at the tank to the grill than run a high pressure line
to the grills regulator?
I have two regulators at my tank one for each side of the bus then I will be plumbing the outside barby
from that side tank regulator without using the barby regulator.
Just a thought it is easily amendable.
Skip
Yes, that would work (probably better, since no high pressure in hose). Main thing is not to try to run LP through 2 regulators, you will not get enough pressure. Our portable grill has a special fitting on the regulator to quick attached to grill (part of the regulator). Jack
Thanks for the info Jack I have always had a problem with my grill so after your post I looked at mine and it has a regulator behind the quick disconnect fitting and one on the grill
Quote from: Brian Diehl on May 07, 2008, 09:32:26 AM
Is this the standard you are referring to?
http://webstore.ansi.org/RecordDetail.aspx?sku=NFPA+1192-2008
Yes, that's the one. I see it's gone up a couple bucks since I bought mine, a 2002 version.
Well worth the investment. In addition to propane, this covers plumbing, detectors (smoke, CO, and LP), fuel-burning appliances, venting, "toy hauler" provisions, emergency exits, and a host of other items. Everything you need to know, code-wise, to build an RV except for the electrical stuff. That's covered separately in a section of the National Electrical Code (NEC), also available from the NFPA. That code is enormous, and can be downloaded for $75, although I am happy to look up most questions for folks in my copy.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com
I ran a 1/2" copper line inside a 3/4" water hose for protection from the bottles at the back of the bus to the 2nd bay. Then hired a certified gas fitter to come out and make all the connections, I have a 3 burner cooktop and a slideout barbecue in the basement. He silver solder all the joints and pressure tested the line for 24 hrs. He put the regulators at the bottles.
FWIW, here's part of what I did. http://www.gumpydog.com/bus/MC9_WIP/Propane_Distribution/propane_distribution.htm (http://www.gumpydog.com/bus/MC9_WIP/Propane_Distribution/propane_distribution.htm). The page doesn't show the inside stuff, but basically there's a shutoff valve above the floor, and a copper line from the value up to the stove.
I don't have my tanks inclosed yet, but will eventually.
I like having the quick disconnect, but it would get used more if I had an awning. As it is, we pitch a screen tent, and pull one of the bottles out of the bay to run the camp stove. I still carry disposable bottles for the gas lantern and small coleman camp stove.
I don't think I'd do much differently on the propane installation if I were to do it again. It works quite well for us. Maybe I'd put in smaller tanks. I have yet to run out on either of my 40 pounders, and I've been using it for over 3 years!!
You're welcome to come take a look at my installation if you want.
Craig,
Where did you buy the fittings you used?
Quote from: Brian Diehl on May 08, 2008, 07:18:30 PM
Craig,
Where did you buy the fittings you used?
The CSST and fittings for it came from Menards. I had to make up a couple pieces from some brass fittings I got at either Menards or NAPA. The black pipe riser was a modification I did to a standard nipple. Valves were from Menards, too. I think the quick connect fittings came from Northern Tool (will have to look that up).