Just a disclaimer that the following post contains nothing funny.
Had this been an actual post........
Could someone save me a little time poking around and explain a easy way to conclude that the turbo is working properly on my 6v92T?
Also, the squirrel cages above the engine (where my two squirrels, that power the bus, live ) have a trap door in the bottom that look like they are connected to an air piston to open and close. Mine look as if they have been stuck open forever. Should they open and close automatically?
Oh, and one other thing.... I notice that the cages my squirrels run in are connected in the middle to a gear box with tranny fluid in it. How do you check the fluid level?
Thanks.
P.S. I'm still waiting for my Manual.
I can't help with the turbo, but the piston you see is designed to close off the radiators to help the engine maintain heat under certain circumstances. There is some disagreement on whether or not to even keep these, and I don't have an opinion. The gear box should have a glass sight gauge in it. At least they did on MCI 7's. Don't know why they would change that. You will be so happy when you get that manual! ;D
Tennor you are not really correct.
if still equiped there are shutters on the radiators themselves to regulate engine temp (heat faster or maintain het.
the shutters in the engine compartment were to shut off flow of the squirel cage fans in an attempt to inclrease HP or rather not lose HP.....as a Squirel cage fan that is not actually moving air uses little to no power.....basicallyt a cheap thermostatically controlled switch type of thing.
they are not needed and the savings in HP is negligable. Many were secured open to prevent failing shut type of issues
I'd never heard it put that way Teke, but it makes sense as well. Here's a link to a thread from a BNO that I started when I had these questions and you can certainly see where the temperature discussion comes into play.
http://www.busnut.com/bbs/messages/233/19177.html (http://www.busnut.com/bbs/messages/233/19177.html)
In fact, I should update it in that I did find the original shutterstat above the squirrel cages in the radiator line. MCI moved the shutterstat location by 1973 to the drivers side radiator pipe and I found the 1968 location by accident. They also really moved air lines around quite a bit. Then I found the original air supply line that had been cut in the seat ledge above the engine bay. I did repair the line, but have not rebuilt the shutters or supplied air to them.
Quote from: Tenor
the piston you see is designed to close off the radiators to help the engine maintain heat under certain circumstances. There is some disagreement on whether or not to even keep these, and I don't have an opinion. The gear box should have a glass sight gauge in it. At least they did on MCI 7's. Don't know why they would change that. You will be so happy when you get that manual! ;D
Tenor,
You are correct here the pistons are to close the flaps which in turn make it hard for the squirrel cage to pull/blow air thru. I can't say if it's good or bad, but most of the MCI's I have serviced over the yrs have had those removed long before I worked on them! The way I see it if it has working shutters outside the radiators then that should be sufficient in keeping air from being pulled thru the radiators! (that is the way our 102A3 has beensince the day we bought it and it does just fine! Yes, we do make sure the shutter stat & shutters are working in cold weather!)
You are also correct about the sight glass on the gear box too! Again everyone I've worked on had one! Most are so filthy that the average person wouldn't know that they are looking at a sight glass, until it is cleaned with a paper towel and a finger! Take caution do not over fill! It will blow out (if yer lucky it won't blow the seals out, but most likely it will)! I know this from letting a new guy in the shop service a bus for a customer once! He filled the gear box completely full! That extra gear lube had to go somewhere! And the tray where that gear box mounts on a certain MC8 located in VA sis a mess even though it's been steam cleaned, steam cleaned, and steam cleaned over and over and over and over and you get the idea! It doesn't leak a drop of gear lube,, but the tray is still nasty and who knows where all that gear lube is coming back out of once things get warmed up back there! (So Frank remember that! If ya remember the day you bought it I showed ya the sight glass and told ya to to just make sure it has lube in it & NOT TO OVERFILL IT!)
Chaz,
The sight glass should be located on the lower left side between the gear box and the squirrel cage. Also if your engine is not extremely weak and belching huge amounts of smoke constantly (when I say huge I mean like a mosquito smoker on full blast all the time), or blowing oil out around the seems it is probably fine!
FWIW! ;D BK ;D
PS I don't own a conversion yet but I love reading about your experiences! LOL! & by the way go to a SAWMILL and get virgin timbers that have been rejected to make your ramps out of! (all the mills I have ever been too have been happy to give me several timbers that were rejected after hitting a nail or spike! But even if ya had to pay $5-10 ea it'd be worth it!) Also try to get them from a mill that does hard woods not soft wood! Good luck, be safe and keep posting!
Quote from: tekebird
Tennor you are not really correct.
if still equiped there are shutters on the radiators themselves to regulate engine temp (heat faster or maintain het.
the shutters in the engine compartment were to shut off flow of the squirel cage fans in an attempt to inclrease HP or rather not lose HP.....as a Squirel cage fan that is not actually moving air uses little to no power.....basicallyt a cheap thermostatically controlled switch type of thing.
they are not needed and the savings in HP is negligable. Many were secured open to prevent failing shut type of issues
See even I learned something here when I read what Doug had answered while I was typing! Thanks Teke!
My "8" has a dipstick for the fan gearbox oil level.
Correct oil is not "trannie fluid" as in automatic transmission fluid.
Quote from: Tony LEE on February 25, 2008, 12:57:17 PM
My "8" has a dipstick for the fan gearbox oil level.
Correct oil is not "trannie fluid" as in automatic transmission fluid.
Tony I ain't gonna argue that it don't, but yers would be the first one I saw that did. The young man (early 20's) I had service Frank's bus (while it still belonged to the church) on his 2nd day working for me (had been working in a trk garage for about 8 months b4 that & was a friend of my main mechanic) swore to me (when we discovered what had happened that he'd " just filled it up to the dipstick level" too! When I asked him to show me this dipstick, he loosened the filler plug and pulled it out and said see "right there is a dipstick!" I almost beat him! I said "you da damn dipstick, that's just there to hold that chain on it so it don't get lost!" There was a little piece of what looked like an oil dipstick that was bent 90* and had a hole in each end one was for the T-bolt coming thru the plug to go thru and the other was for the little chain to be crimped thru! FWIW ;D BK ;D
On my 1983 MCI MC9 ( ex NJT )..
The shutterstat is located on the right upper raditor line. It operates TWO cylinders that are located ( one on the lower portion of radiator front side ) that actuate the shutters. The regulator is on the right upper bulkhead also.
The cylinder under the center is the belt tensioner. It is required to keep that
big and long fan belt running true. There are no flaps or other nonsense except for a small flap to help keep trash from getting up into the blower box.
The Oil that is supposed to be in that gearbox is NOT, NEVER transmission fluid.
It is gear oil or could be 40 or 50 wt oil. I run lucas gear oil in mine.
The shutters are NOT and I repeat NOT a horspower saving device. They are designed to allow the engine to get up to and maintain optimum operating temperature. Most are set to open at 195 degrees. some are at 170 also.
A COLD running detroit is a wasteful engine. They need to be up in the proper temperature range for best performance and least smoke.
If you have piss-poor radiators or a bad cooling system then you have bigger problems that worry about the shutters.
I replaced both of my radiators with NEW cores. After that I needed the shutters to be working because I couldn't get the engine temps over 150 degrees. Peformance was off and not very responsive. I enabled the shutters and performance and fuel economy came back.
Keep in mind that many older buses that were equipped with shutters have had them removed or disabled for either cooling problems or maintenance reasons. ( lazy people! ).
Tekebird,
Please don't offer your expert opinion on subjects that you have no clue about. Sometimes your messages just confuse things because either you don't know or are guessing. There are lots of people here that DO know what they are doing and have been down the long road of learning. Let us handle the questions Please.
Just watch and you might actually learn something.
Sorry Guys, This is just starting to ruffle my feathers since I am not a little robotic bird built by disney... Smoke & Mirrors.... ;D ;D
The damper doors above the engine seem to be more prone to trouble than the shutters on the outside of the radiators. Engine room exposure versus out in the wind?
When the return springs in the pistons get weak, they leave the dampers just a little shy of full opening. The effect of having them get lazy is shocking. In pleasant weather, the coach can overheat if one door is shy by an inch from fully open.
Many southern busnuts have successfully removed the whole kit and kaboodle, as they don't go driving in the cold, and spending the time and money to restore a system that is not well understood in the warmer regions of the continent doesn't seem like the right thing to do.
To give you an idea, in near freezing weather, you pull off the highway, idle around to a parking spot, park, get out and walk down the back, the shutters have already closed, or they close within moments of you reaching the rear of the coach, as the cooling system has already bled off all the heat, and the motor is heading below the thermostats.
I have disconnected the lazy pistons on my damper doors, ensuring they are fully open, and left the shutters operational. When I run out of things to do, I'll see about restoring full functionality, but for now, good enough.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
I guess I must have one of those southern buses. The shutters that cover the radiators are missing and the trap doors over the engine are fixed to stay fully open. This must be why last weekend with weather in the 40s it took a long time to warm up. No?
Dr Dave, I can assure you and will be happy to bet you that I am correct on the intention and design of the Shutters for the blowers themselves.
It is COMMON knowledge that a Squirell cage fan that can't or isn't moving air is not using as much power. it is the exact same thing is going on on the Factory Coach A/C compressor.....which I am expecting you have removed from your coach.
yes the electric motor or in this case belt driven system basically is freewheeling.....your savings in power comes from the reduced resistance or drag on the fans.
care to make a wager.
I am young and I look dumb but I generally do not pose opinion or comment that I can;'t back up with fact......
thats why I leave electrical stuff alone comment wise...and leave the HVAC stuff to our resident expert
chazwood,
does your bus have radiator shutters outboard of the radiators?
now on mine the Dampers on the blower boxes have also been locked open.
It was quite common for these to fail shut.....causing engine heating issues.
On mine...40 today.......equipes with operating radiator shutters and shutterstat.....temp gauge was off the bottom before the air was up to 120
check to see if your bus has the shutters on the radiator and they are working.....they should shut when the bus is off....thus you cannot see the radiator
Dr Dave,
aditionally...the equipment on the radiator are shutters
the equipment on the Fan boxes are Dampers.
don't know abaout your NJT Cruiser......but it may very well have been ordered without these dampers.
there were never installed on late model MCi's with this fan setup as they were problematic...and didn;t save much power.....although they did save power...just wasn't worth the hastle.
perhaps it is you who needs to police his own posts......most of my experience is not from making mistakes but being educated properly in the first place.
OK, guys. Knock to off. We do not want any flame wars starting.
Richard
Quote from: tekebird on February 25, 2008, 03:08:57 PM
chazwood,
does your bus have radiator shutters outboard of the radiators?
now on mine the Dampers on the blower boxes have also been locked open.
It was quite common for these to fail shut.....causing engine heating issues.
On mine...40 today.......equipes with operating radiator shutters and shutterstat.....temp gauge was off the bottom before the air was up to 120
check to see if your bus has the shutters on the radiator and they are working.....they should shut when the bus is off....thus you cannot see the radiator
No shudders......dampners locked open
you will likely need one or the other working to get your bus up to op temp in a dec ent ammount of time or at all in Cold temps.
as I stated, the dampers will have the same effect as the shutters however they were not designed for that purpose and were problematic thus people removing them or locking them open.
parts for rebuild on the cyl etc are availabelf rom MCI.
I like the shudder idea but can't even see where they were connected.
perhaps someone who keeps their manuals at thier house will be kind enought to scan the appropiate pages for you
WOW!
anyway back to part of the original question, chaz does your bus have a boost guauge and what is making you suspect of the turbo?
steve
Quote from: compedgemarine on February 25, 2008, 05:37:31 PM
anyway back to part of the original question, chaz does your bus have a boost guauge and what is making you suspect of the turbo?
steve
I wouldn't know a boost guauge if it jumped up and bit me on the afterburner.
Why would I suspect the turbo? My bus runs like a bloated sow. With three legs. If this is all the better it ever ran ,whoever invented the turbo for buses was a funny guy.
Of course, I just learned that all the radiator baffles and blower shudders and some-such, were all disarmed, causing the engine to run cool on short trips. (I can hear Mr. Greyhound now....."if ya ain't going at least 1000 miles ...she ain't worth takin' out'a the garage) My only trip, so far, was in cool weather and the water temp gauge read about 160 the whole trip. (when it wasn't being spastic) so that could be causing the three legged sow syndrome. As an example....In order to go 60, I really need to stand on the gas pedal. Then, if I grind it through the floor like I'm trying to stomp out a fireproof cigarette butt, I get 65-70. Maybe. (OK...down hill, with a tail wind.) For all I know this might be normal. The engine does not smoke even if it's floored going uphill. (which is the only way it will go up hill.) So with a combination of cold engine, mud in the bearings and fear in the operator , perhaps I was expecting too much. Just wondering how fast the rest of you guys go.
Okay Chaz, you got the gutless hog, but what kind of mileage does she get? ;) If everything is working correctly, less the shudders and dampers, then the tradeoff in performance must be increased mileage.
Sorry, couldn't help myself. PP
No man, this thing is fast....I got a turbo ::).
Mileage? Haven't figured out any mileage yet. This thing doesn't even have a fuel gauge. Looks like it never had one. (What do you expect from a vehicle with no key?) That should make things interesting.
"Hey Momma, get me the fuel tank dip stick, would ya?"..... "Yup.... lookin' a little low.... better call Countrywide for that home equity loan again."
Chaz, Don;t have much experience with the 6v92T, maybe 5 hours behind the wheel. in that time on a fresh "ish" engine I would say it did not have anything on my 8-71NA
if that is commonplace it is just slow. in comparison to anything you have likely driven.
You should easily be able to get to 75 however.
Just recently purchasd my first turbo a 8-92t...and it has no boost gauge ( they were optional)
You could very well have a slipping tranny in addition to high friction due to mud in your bearings.
I'd knock one thing off at a time.
Obviously the bearings are a contributing factor so do that first......then figure out how to rearm your dampers or install shutters.
and so Dr Dave doesn't get upset here is the proper terminology
the mechanism that is outboard/upstream on the radiators are Radiator Shutters and they will have a shutterstat to controll them as well as some air lines.
the mechanism on the bottom of the blower enclosures are Dampers...they too will have "shutterstats" and the associated hardware.
your engine should be able to reach op temp 175-185 or so within a few block after airup in the temps you have.....might be a few miles in colder temps.
Now that is with working shutterstats ( either on the dampers or shutters) I assume eventually the temp might get to where it should be.......but keep in mind operating below these temps is detrimental to Engine life.....
Now with that said do we know if your gauge is reading correct? tempurature gauge? and what is the deviation between the front and rear gauge when the engine is hot ( after a run)
Chaz, was this a Real Hound?
Now not smoking is not a 100% good indicator of a worn out engine......it is a telltale sign but you can have a worn out engine that doesnt smoke.
And yes, we did have a 6-71 ran fine, was down on power and we just chalked it up to 6-71 stereotypical "they are weak" unitl the NEW Crate 6-71 was installed.....new one ran like araped ape and would keep up with 450HP on all but the longest steepest pulls......
old engine was torn down......and it was worn...well worn to the point our mechanic said he was supprised it was running so well ( testiment for the DD 2 stroke)
Fuel Gauges were and are still optional....really no need for one.....you know the min range on a full tank.....and you fill before you go that far.
forget if you have a manual or an Auto...... on an auto I would plan on 5mpg.....and see what you end up with.
I have a 6 speed and plan on 6 but often get 8
I just serviced my gearbox and the sightglass was useless. I cleaned the sucker a few times and it was still dark as ^&%$&*. It looked to me as if you would be almost empty before that window would show half way full? I built a dip stick as a secondary device and make sure that both the window is dark and the chamber is at least half full.
Good luck!
Grant
The Chazter,
Now Teke edged me out because I kept going back to see who else wrote what but I think he had (and me too) one of the bestest points. Needed more emphasis, though. Don't run your engine under load at 160 degrees. Like Teke said "that might be detrimental"...cough, snort! You should have a temp gauge in the engine compartment, that doesn't run off of the same sender as the dash gauge. Really. Oil pressure gauge back there also that is really accurate and mechanical as you are feet from the oil pump.
Harbor freight has a "non contact Infra red heat gun" for $40 or so. A must have tool. What is the temp of the water coming out of each radiator? What is the temp of my differential? When stopped after a run are ALL my bearings running at the same temp by group or should I reduce speed and crawl to the next off ramp and call for directions to the nearest repair facility and crawl there and avoid the $20 per mile or worse tow charge? What is the water temp at my defroster? The skin in the sun....shade? What is the temp of my tires cause that is the best indicator of air pressure and is the center hotter than the edges.....too much air.....102 instead of the 107 pounds, for example, and learn this before it shows up as "data" on the tire tread depth gauge/ See what a usefull Puppy that gun is? And that is just off the top Chazzy.
You have a bad gauge or you thermostats have been removed. I recently had this problem on a gas 4 wheeler. Turned out that a piece of debris had wedged in the thermostats shutter and the engine came up to temp after 20 miles or so instead of the two blocks like God and Lexus intended. Maybe one of the two in a DD would keep the entire mill as cool as you think yours is. Don't know.
If your engine is as cold as you think, that is why you have "low power". You should also be getting really bad milage, as well.
Get the turbo gauge. That will tell you if that jewel is starting to go south and spare you the side of the road and lost oil experience.
The bright side here is that you are one of those rarest of beasts....and MCI with too much cooling capacity. If there isn't a special group for you guys, there ought to be. You would stand out if for no other reason than how few of you are a group. ::) ;D ;D ;D
Great posts, Chaz. Bit on the afterburner? Way back there?
Thanks for the laughs Chaz,
John
to expand on John's post.......yep no Tstats would certainly cause low temp....a common (but stupid) attempt to fix a too hot situation......also could be just one or two tstats failed open...yep they will and can fail either way open or closed.
Based on info given. I suspect that it was a hot runner.....shutters were removed as well as Dampers being disbaled.....when that failed they went to the tstats?????????????
Heck maybe someone put tap water in the cooling system.....that stuff can wreck havoc with mineral buildups which can also cause tstat issues
Quote from: tekebird on February 25, 2008, 06:49:38 PM
if that is commonplace it is just slow. in comparison to anything you have likely driven.
I have driven bulldozers that are faster than this thing.
where exactly do you mount the rear temp gauge?
it should have one.....one the left side of the engine compartment towards the top of the main doors should be right around the rear controls
Quote from: tekebird on February 25, 2008, 06:57:57 PM
Chaz, was this a Real Hound?
If it was ...it was a basset , not a grey.
Quote from: grantgoold on February 25, 2008, 07:15:55 PM
I just serviced my gearbox and the sightglass was useless. I cleaned the sucker a few times and it was still dark as ^&%$&*. It looked to me as if you would be almost empty before that window would show half way full? I built a dip stick as a secondary device and make sure that both the window is dark and the chamber is at least half full.
Good luck!
Grant
??? sorry man, you lost me.....Next!
So, your tellin' me, this thing dosen't even come with a key or a fuel gauge, but it has two water temperature gauges? I will look myself. But I doubt it. :-\
Teke,
You take this one.
John
just as I thought ...no back temp gauge. (that I can find) :(
Hold the phone...there did seem to be a copper line from the left door jamb going up behind the anti freeze tank (with the crusty little window) and who knows after that.....it is plugged now, but it looks like you could screw in a temp gauge at one time. (Probably got rid of it because it was reading too hot or too cold.) Was that it, you think?
Quote from: chazwood on February 25, 2008, 08:19:54 PM
just as I thought ...no back temp gauge. (that I can find) :(
Hold the phone...there did seem to be a copper line from the left door jamb going up behind the anti freeze tank (with the crusty little window) and who knows after that.....it is plugged now, but it looks like you could screw in a temp gauge at one time. (Probably got rid of it because it was reading too hot or too cold.) Was that it, you think?
Chaz that copper line probably ain't it! It may or may not have had one back there, as it is quite common to find them both ways! However as said it is highly reccomended to put one of each oil & temp back there! (some guys even go as far as to put a temp gauge on both sides so if there is a problem they can tell which side may be at fault!) As for a boost gauge I'll bet the farm you don't & never did have one! Very rare to find one that wasn't installed by a super meticulous owner. As for being slow, just remember it weighs in @ around 25,000 +/- Lbs. And has less horse power than a bone stock IROC Z-28 or Mustang GT from the early to mid eighties! (now days Mustangs & Buses come out with some serious HP!) But I'm not saying that you don't have a dog (pun intended) when it comes to power, there could be a reason for it not having normal getty up an go, or you could be just expecting a little much from it.
Boy I can't emphasize enough how bad you need to spend a weekend at a rally or even just with an experienced busnut! There are so many things someone could help you learn more about your bus with just a few hrs poking around and pointing out things, and many hrs answering your questions while showing you where or how on YOUR bus as no 2 are just alike! I'd suggest you check out Nick's off topic brainstorm (really it is on topic, but
they put it in the off topic subject area!) http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=7096.msg68464#msg68464
go to it regularly and see if a busnut might be coming near you. Also post regularly where you will be going and maybe, just maybe you'll either be going near another busnuts home area, or maybe just crossing paths.
FWIW ;D BK ;D
OK, Fine I will give you the one on the "dampers", Honestly I have never seen a bus equipped with them and even while shopping for my MC9 didn't see any on any of the NJT buses on the lot of about 100 or so 83's and 87's all with 6V92TA engines.
Didn't see any on three other earlier year models either. 1980, 81 or 82 models.
They may have been standard or optional at some point. So OK on that.
Yes, a Cage Blower does not suck as much horsepower if the shutters are closed.
That is an assumed fact whether you have dampers or shutters.. Say approximately 5 to 15 hp maybe.. who really knows.
TB... Why would I make a bet about that. I don't think so, Mainly because I wasn't
the one that said it or made a comment per se...
The general rule (loose) is 0 to 60 in 5 miles with a stock 6V92TA MUI at the factory 277 hp coach rating. On mine maybe 3 miles to 65 on a good day.
The best mileage I have ever gotten was 7 mpg, 6.5 down to 5.5 is the real world average with a full load and 8k trailer following along behind. I use 5 mpg as the general rule to figure when to stop for fuel or just top off evey 200 miles or so.
Fuel capacity should be in the range of 8 hours at least. I don't know about a lot of others but I have to get up and walk around at least every 3 hours and to drain the reserve tanks. That's why I never worried about a working fuel gauge and won't lose sleep over never getting mine to work.
The only bus I had that got really poor mileage was my RTS and that was with the factory air handler a/c running came out to 3.4 mpg.. 5 without it...Of course the engine was worn out anyway and finally blew up when the blower drive broke.
As for the TURBO effect... It's not really something that you can feel on lazy old detroit 2 strokes. You can hear it at higher rpms on some buses, But usually its just a hidden sound and working part of the engine.
Chaz.. Slow down, You are all over the place and starting to babble randomly.
Somebody please go visit him and help him figure out what he has. I would go but can't afford the 800 mile round trip and 3 days it would take to explain stuff to him.
As for questioning my qualifications. Go ahead... But be forewarned... I get a bad attitude when people start talking out their shaded side.. Charmin to the rescue! :-\
( or was that altitude? ) I do know (or did) my mechanics, electronics,avionics and many other fields long before I got my own bus(es).. I can and do make mistakes and I am far from perfect.. I started converting vans and old school buses for people before I had a drivers license... Like back in the late 60's
I have been a machinist and worked on military and nasa items. I have engineered data, radio and mechanical systems for several companies. I have driven passenger buses and trucks professionally. All in all, There's not much I haven't done at some point in life. I figure stuff out. I watch TV and sit in complete awe at the antics on Mythbusters and have done a few of the featured jobs on Dirty Jobs too...
Mike Rowe needs to help strip and clean a bus sometime. That's is a really dirty job and it don't wash off very quickly either.
Sorry, I drifted again OT, OH, OHNO.....
Bye...
Mike Rowe did clean the grease pit at the Tribo0ro Coach garage in NYC...at least I think it was tri Boro....could have been one of the other independants before they got gobbled
Quote from: chazwood on February 25, 2008, 08:19:54 PM
just as I thought ...no back temp gauge. (that I can find) :(
Hold the phone...there did seem to be a copper line from the left door jamb going up behind the anti freeze tank (with the crusty little window) and who knows after that.....it is plugged now, but it looks like you could screw in a temp gauge at one time. (Probably got rid of it because it was reading too hot or too cold.) Was that it, you think?
Chaz,
On our MC-8, that line has a schrader valve on the end of it and was used to check cooling system presure. The other end on the line is attached the the surge tank (located above the blower grear box). Jack
Sorry Chaz, I put the wrong reply in the post.
It would not surprise me at all if NJT did a fleet retrofit and removed the dampers from everything.
Engineers on staff.
When you are running that many buses, and keeping proper stats, common failures are identified and remedied, permanently.
Effects your mandate for service provision.
$$$$
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Quite possible a fleet retrofit, but equally possible they were specced that way....NJT buses had some odd specs....to the point they had their own specific maint and parts manuals.
this is specifically of issue with the RTS's
This topic has reached critical mass.....there are so many different discussions going on, within this post, that I can't even tell who is replying to whom anymore ;D.
Wood - If you can't get that hound to at least puff some black smoke when you stomp the pedal - your engine may be governed or you may have throttle problems - may be a good reason your hound is a dog?
my hound is a "basset", no doubt.
Doesn't puff big enough for me in the mirror....or my wife following in the van to see. (of course she might be looking for a mosquito fogger ;D)
FWIW Chaz,
I am changing my thermostats which requires pulling the air inlet tube from the turbo to the blower and found a consideralble amount of oil laying in the tube. even though mine was making boost turns out it has a problem. luckily I had bought a reliabilt unit on ebay for cheap awhile back as a backup. if nothing else have you changed the air filter and pulled the air tube and spun the turbo to make sure it spins free? same with the fuel filters. lack of fuel or air will make them lay down.
steve
Quote from: compedgemarine on February 26, 2008, 06:19:24 PM
FWIW Chaz,
I am changing my thermostats which requires pulling the air inlet tube from the turbo to the blower and found a consideralble amount of oil laying in the tube. even though mine was making boost turns out it has a problem. luckily I had bought a reliabilt unit on ebay for cheap awhile back as a backup. if nothing else have you changed the air filter and pulled the air tube and spun the turbo to make sure it spins free? same with the fuel filters. lack of fuel or air will make them lay down.
steve
Now that's what I call puttin' the hay down where the goats can git it. I'll git on it.
Mine ain't just laying down .....I think it's asleep.
Thanks. ;D
As noted, restriction in air or fuel could put it to sleep. So if you don't find another simple solution that works, you may want to replace the fuel filter. But if you do, be sure to do a search on the forum for tips on changing the filter and priming it.