Since I got my bus I have been looking for a scissor style jack for my bus.
Maybe I am fussy but I haven't found exactly what I want. So I was thinking about
making one or two next winter.
There are basically 2 styles I want to build.
1. For the shop big enough to drive up on and lift. Hydraulic ram with a method to pin the rail into the
height. Maybe I have been looking in the wrong places but all I have able to find are for cars.
2. For OTR hydraulic and be able to pin in place. Wide base or slides to widen the foot print.
I have bottle jacks etc. I was just looking for something that was sturdy and safe enough where blocking
was a good idea not a requirement. I'll admit I am not a big fan of bottle jacks especially on poor ground.
Thoughts and problems sought.
Thanks
Skip
Be safe put a pit in or build a set of stationary concrete ramps to drive/back it on! We want you to stick around awhile, you always have great ideas/knowledge you share with us! The only lifts I have seen that would be safe enough for what you are asking about are the drive on style 4 post lifts with moveable jack trays! Way to costly for the likes of most of us! JMHO FWIW!
;D BK ;D
BK,
Thanks for the kind words.
Honest opinions and BTDT is always good.
Some ideas are good and we can build on them
Some are not so good and should be discussed and put away.
The 4 post lifts I have looked at are expensive and there would be no return on investmant for this hobbyist.
A good set of ramps are easy to build and functionally more than a satisfatory solution.
Skip
Where are you located? I work for a car dealership that will be selling off a bunch of various 2 post and 4 post lifts that have only been used for a year or so. Prices ranging from $500-1200. They arent available yet but should be in the next couple months. Let me know if anyone is interested.
Trevor,
Thanks for the info....I'm in Helena mt I changed my profile so it shows up :)
Just a friendly reminder depending on the particulars it is usually not allowed
to mention something for sale over $50 on bus related items. I don't know
if lifts would be considered bus related that is the decision of the moderators.
But if they edit the price out please don't get upset we can go off board and e-mail
Yep I am interested what are the weight limits.........
Skip
Skipn, you could kill two birds with one project by installing long stroke hydraulic cylinders on the bus and use them to level while camping and lift for working.
Most commercial leveling systems are not long stroke, but I built mine with cylinders that have a 24 inch stroke. I can lift my bus pretty high if I need to. I did a little documentation on my project pages (http://www.rvsafetysystems.com/busproject4.htm). I have included the cylinder part numbers for your information. I have a ton of time in the fabrication (still have not installed the front cylinders yet), but I think it is really worth it. I now have a 12V pump that I will use when I finish the system in a few months. It eliminates the need for any jack - either at the shop or on the road.
No matter what, block the bus before you get under it!!!!!
Jim
I apologize for posting that if I was not supposed to. If I am not, could a moderator please let me know for the future. I am in no way affiliated with the sale of them, I just know who you need to get in touch with FWIW. I will check on the weight ratings.
Quote from: TrevorH on January 31, 2008, 09:05:47 AM
I apologize for posting that if I was not supposed to. If I am not, could a moderator please let me know for the future. I am in no way affiliated with the sale of them, I just know who you need to get in touch with FWIW. I will check on the weight ratings.
No problem as far as I can see to just mention something like this. This is the purpose of the board. There is a post going on now;
http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=7180.0
that I feel is stretching the limit, but I will let Nick make that decision.
Richard
Trevor.......there you have it from one who knows........
Jim(rv_safetyman),
Silly me I forgot about an onboard leveling system......Question though
Some of the equipment I have owned with large hydraulic rams had lock out safety
bars. In looking at your design it would appear that it wouldn't be to difficult to
add this feature just at a proper height for tire removal. How say you?
There is no subtitute for good blocking! safety first banged knuckles second
just the way it seems to be.
thanks
Skip
bk
You should have looked under huggy while I was at your place. It has four Hydraulic jacks. i can lift any corner off the ground, But i wouldn't crawl under till i blocked it.
"uncle ned"
"huggy bear"
Hi Skip,
The safest way is a pit...
You wouldn't have to build a very long pit, just long enough to work on the back end. If you want to work on the front,
Just turn the bus around.
Good Luck
Nick-
Skip, I have thought a lot about some sort of stop. I used to call on the major Ag OEMs and they had lots of lawsuits back in the 60s for combines where the farmer would raise the header and then crawl in to change a sickle section and a hose would pop and drop the header on him. Today they all have a simple angle iron stop to keep the header from falling.
I thought about doing the same type of thing. I was going to use two pieces of angle iron to surround the rod and somehow clamp them together. One thought was to weld hinges on one side and make some sort of clamp for the other. The only issue I ran into was how tall to make them. That could vary depending on how high you raised the bus. I thought I might make perhaps three different lengths and then you could mix and match to get the correct stack. You would only need them on the corner you were working on. I am not fond of carrying more equipment, but it is probably a good idea in case you would have to change a tire or do some work underneath. Also, you have the issue that you would have to crawl partly under the bus to install that kind of stop.
I also thought about some sort of heavy tubing (could be round or square) with holes drilled in it that would be next to the cylinder that would act like a jack stand. You would weld the outside tubing on the frame (perhaps the same frame that holds the cylinder and then insert the sliding inside tube. The inside tube could be retained inside the outer tube for traveling if you wished. You could use a good size pin in an oversize hole and insert it pretty easily without crawling under the bus. I really like this approach, but have not worked out the details in my mind.
BTW, if you do decide to go the hydraulic cylinder route, be careful what size cylinder you choose. I could have gone with a smaller cylinder and still had plenty of lifting capacity, but you really want at least a 2 inch diameter rod to avoid any bending problems. I have seem some pretty small diameter rods on leveling jacks and I just cringe if they are extended very far.
Jim
BK and Nick
I agree a pit would be the safe way but (isn't there always a but)
a high lift jack accident a couple of years ago has left me with
some minor problems of lifting my arm above my head. I distrust jacks
in general. I can still lay on my back and mechanic I just have to
watch what I am doing. Still more brawn than brains :)
Skip
Quote from: TrevorH
Where are you located? I work for a car dealership that will be selling off a bunch of various 2 post and 4 post lifts that have only been used for a year or so. Prices ranging from $500-1200. They arent available yet but should be in the next couple months. Let me know if anyone is interested.
Trevor that's real nice of you point out that the CAR dealership sells it's used lifts at a reasonable price. But those are 8,000 to 10,000 lb lifts at the VERY MOST. We're talking 40,000 lb lifts (ya know bus, fire truck, garbage truck size lifts) here! They start out at $40,000 and go up from there, and so far I ain't never seeeen a used one for sale for less than $10,000 and some of those I'd be afraid to lift a car with let alone one of my buses! (bad shape, wore out hard, and ready to scrap!)
;D BK ;D
PS for what it's worth you can get a nice car lift brand new these days for 2-3 grand shipped and set up!
The well equipped busnut has a variety of lumber along for the ride:
A collection of good quality wood blocks, sized for building cribs under the axle. 4x4" and 2x4" by 12 to 18" gives you flexibility, and enough pieces to do both ends of an axle.
By cribs, I mean each layer is placed in the other direction by 90 degrees to defend against tipping.
Larger railway tie pieces are good at home for driveway use.
Wheels off, two railway ties do a nice job under my MC8
Know which ones will fit into the bump stops for blocking up the air suspension, should the need arise.
Also, the troublesome wheel sinkage on the grass lawn at a rally may be defended against with enough 2x2' squares of 3/4 plywood for under each wheel position. The squares also make a good base for the bottle jack on the gravel shoulder for changing the flat tire, pressed into patio table service when guests arrive, etc.
They seem to find homes in those wasted spaces around/above the tanks and other conversion goodies.
happy coaching!
buswarrior