Got a line on some nice steel and aluminumiumium truck tractor fuel tanks at the local, friendly and inexpensive ($cheap$) heavy truck wrecking yard. Fifties, 75's, 100's and a few 125's. Kinda square. Could they be cleaned out to the point that use as fresh water tanks would not be out of the question? Would frame mount on the Crown. Which cleaning method would work best? Sand blast? Live steam? Pressure wash? Dedicated sealing/coating? All of the above? Or...not a good idea for drinking water? I dunno. :) :) :)
would not use for drinking
Seems like cleaning, then sealing with Redcoat, Johnsons fuel tank liner, Kreem or something similar should work, but I doubt you would ever get rid of the taste. No more than what a good new freshwater tank costs, I'd go new on the fresh and consider used on waste.
Doug Engel, Gunnison,CO.
Passivation? (chemical surface treatment)
I still wouldn't use it for drinking water, but quite possibly for showers & flushing.
Obviously great for waste water.
A very knowledgeable gentleman that worked for many years in the steel industry told me once that metal is porous and has a memory, DON'T USE THEM FOR DRINKING WATER
Aren't water towers steel? But, I think they use epoxy paint in them and they were never exposed to fuel.
I personally would not use a steel tank for freshwater.
If you choose to use the tank, AND use a good quality interior surface treatment, I think you would be OK with one provision. Install a top level dual cartridge filter system for drinking water. they are cheap (big box stores) and do a fantastic job. Install a separate line with the filters in it and a drinking water faucet.
I always put a bit of Clorox in the tank if they sit for more than a few weeks. On this trip I forgot and drew my drinking water out of the normal faucet. It tasted terrible. I then got water out of the drinking water faucet and I could not smell or taste the chlorine.
The issue with the fuel tank is two fold: taste and health. The filters should take care of the taste. From a health standpoint, If the tank was used for diesel, I don't think it would have any lead. I am not sure if any other fuel chemicals would be dangerous. Because of the very small concentration (after proper treating) I can't believe health issues would be significant.
I am not an expert on the health issues, so make sure you do reasonable research.
Jim
Isn't oil used in the manufacturing process at the steel mills when they make the plate/ sheet stock? Most has some oil treatment to reduce rusting in storage before being used to fabricate the end product.
So, how do 'they' get all this contamination out of the pores before using it for potable water? (not just the tanks, but the piping, pumps, & etc.)
I'd think that the good filters would be a great idea regardless of what you use for tanks 'cause some water sources may not be as clean as you'd like . . .
Clean out a tank as well as you can, treat it as desired, then fill it with water & let it sit for a week. Draw some out into a glass. Does it have an unpleasant odor or taste? Have it tested to see what's in it compared to tap water. Then you'll have the real answer for your situation.
Cheers! ;D
HB,
Use that tank for fresh water but NOT for drinking water. Go to the hardware store and get a gallon size bag of Plumber's Lye. Fill your tank with COLD water and then SLOWLY add the lye. The fuel and any other petro compound will be gone after you rinse. Let it stand a few hours. The water will not leave you smelling like a 8V71 but taste is something else. Carry jugs of water for drinking and cooking. Better yet, take lots of beer for both. That tank will rust and the motion of the coach will keep it stirred up. I think those coatings are spendy but you would have a strong rust free tank. The aluminum tank sounds better.
HTH,
John
Oh yeah...get a coating that is specified good for potable water tanks. You might end up worse of than with the fuel. My caution.
John
Personally would only use the best stainless steel or plastic for fresh water, with plastic being the first choice since it can't rust (only the most expensive stainless doesn't rust-which would probably cost way more than a plastic tank). Plastic tanks properly supported will last just about forever. On my big rig, I had a 20 gal black tank and 25 gal gray tank mounted on the fuel tank cross members on a plywood platform with angle iron perimeter support with the drive shaft right above and exposed to everything that goes under a truck. They were on for 12 years and over 700,000 miles with no problems. Good Luck, TomC
It seems to me that new, safe, plastic tanks are just too cheap to take a chance on a used fuel tank as a fresh water supply.
Jay
87 SaftLiner
And chlorine bleach will corrode aluminum tanks.
RV plastic tanks is the most practical, low cost in the long run.
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ,
Jerry
Thank you everyone. About what I thought, but wasn't sure. Nothing worse than bad water. Don't laugh, but for right now, the plan is still on employing food grade 55 gallon water/container barrels as fresh and holding tanks. The $price$ is right at $15.00 each. :) :) :)
HB,
Those square tanks would be ideal for holding BioD or WVO in your bus. Thoughts for the future. Any body near you want them?
FWIW,
John
Yeah...I'm still eyeballing the used tanks as gas (diesel fuel) tanks. The kinda square ones will fit in various places/spaces including a fifty in space #1...just in front of the driver's side rear driver, (where the batteries are right now) #2...(a 100) just behind the right front wheel where the trunk is right now and #3 and #4 (both 75's) just behind the rear drivers on each side. Diesel electric Crown 10 wheeler.
Space #1 will dicate deleting the planned sunken tub/shower pan. Oh well. I am finding out that the design stage/phase is a lot of fun, but involves gives and takes, plus the little fact that the weights and balances have to end up fairly close when done. Also...where in heck are the water, holding, batteries and APU going to go? The world wonders plus me. CROWNS FOREVER!! :) :) :)
CJ- I had many of the challenges you do since I used a transit bus. I does have 22" space between the bottom of the floor and the body skirt. If you're putting the bathroom in the rear (a common design on Crowns) then the tanks should be there also. I have a rear queen bed that has the 130 gal water tank, two water pumps, hot and cold manifold system, and two 10gal elec water heaters under. This worked out well since my wheel wells dictated the bed to be raised to have the proper sitting height when over the wheel wells (with 5'5" of head room). I removed the original A/C & heating system just in front of the rear axle where I installed the 45 gal black tank, 85 gal gray tank and two additional 8D house batteries. On yours, you could put the tanks to either side of the transmission-just make sure you also install a heat shield between the tank and the transmission to keep the tanks from melting. My 10kw Powertech generator (I have 3 roof airs) is next to the drivers seat like a front engine with the radiator remote mounted under the drivers seat with a squirrel cage blower. It is possible to install all your goodies under a Crown-just have to be creative. Good Luck, TomC