Hi,all:
I'm looking at at good working Honda EX5500 generator for installing on my MCI7.
2 cylinder,liquid cooled,remote start capable.
Anyone have any experience with this model?
Thanks.
Mark
Installed one in a S&S about a month ago and he's dry camping out in boon docks in LaPosa So. BLM and he runs it about two hours a evening and seems real happy says he's using less than 1 gallon a day so seems real happy and I was surprised how quiet it was.
LarryH
In the past, I have heard folks find fault with the fact that the Hondas are 3600 RPM units, instead of 1800. Their rationale was that 1800 PRM units should run quieter and have a longer life. Pretty much anything Honda has a good reputation for quality and good life expectancy. If folks are happy with the sound level, then I think I would not put much emphasis on the designed RPM.
Are you talking about the Honda EV4010 or EV6010. The one designed for RV's?
This isn't designed as an RV unit. I will likely have to remove the generator from the case, and remote mount the rad and fan.
I would not recommend that model if it is going to be mounted to your rig. It is quite loud in comparison with the EU6500. This is the largest size in Honda's Quiet series and is an invertor model which means consitent sine current and no spikes or surges. This just came out this year. I worked at a Honda powerhouse dealership for 2 years fwiw...
How does the EU6500 compare to the EV6010? Do they make an EU model for RV use?
Removing Jap gensets from their little boxes is something I have some experience with. Removed a Yamaha ED6500 from the 'quiet' box and installed in in my MC9 condensor compartment. Wow. MAjOR noisy.
I've got it quieted back down, but soundproofing was more work than the original install....which was a right good bit of work too.
What you wish to do will clearly work. Be sure and fireproof that sucker. I'd get in touch with Jim Shepard (sp?) with RV Safety and he can advise on fire suppression.
Keep in mind that while the engine is liquid cooled, the gen head isn't. It'll require a good bit of correctly flowed air.
Look closely at the quiet box and you'll get an idea of how the air flows around the generator.
If it's like my Yamaha (Kubota diesel), you'll want to mount the engineon soft isolator mounts of some sort.
Unfortunatly, the mounts come in all sorts of sizes for weight and frequency. Sojourner posted a good bit on the engineering side of the mounts in response to my delimma with the noise. My noise problem was really...everything....mounts, air intake, lack of deadening in the compartment...you name it.
Don't know where you plan to mount the unit, but the electronics won't stand but so much heat. I moved mine into the first bay. Made up a wiring harness to do so. Remote start from the the driver's seat.
The unit has worked great. Been doing so for about 5 years now. That's how my OTR ACs are powered.
Use a lot of thought about where/how you mount a gasoline tank for the genset. That's the biggest downside to the generator. Dual fuel.
You'll be able to operate one rooftop AC on that genset. Don't know what loads you have in mind, but 5500 watts is limited. My 6500 is limited....but it sure runs cheap! I like that...I'm pretty tight! ;)
Not sure if this link will work, but Gary L posted a pix of my genset on his website. If interested:
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2244667890076768549GcipdK
If that doesn't work this will get you there. http://community.webshots.com/user/converter101
Just look down the RH column for 'Harold and Terri....'
Cheers, JR
Pay close attention to what TrevorH says.
I bought a Honda EV6010 slightly over a year ago and have to say that it is a great little maching.
If the EX series is anything like the EV (Liquid cooled also) the air flow intake and exhaust over the whole unit is very important. The EV cooling air exhaust is out the bottom and the intake must be a minimum size hole.
You can download a copy of the Honda EV4010/EV6010 installation instructions from the Honda website and see just how critical the enclosure dimensions are for proper cooling.
After you look at these instructions you can see there is really no reason to remote the radiator - it all can be a nice neat package.
If it already is in a good enclosure with the proper dimensions why remove it, just install the whole box and have extra good sound insulation. You can even add more insulation to the outside of the box but not the inside.
I purchased my EV6010 from http://www.hicklinpower.com
who I would highly recommend, I inquired about remote mounting the radiator. The service manager who was very knowledgeable said not to do it becuse it would disrupt the airflow around the genset and would cause problems. I did have to reroute the radiator fan exhaust becuse of frameing members, with no problem.
Same as jjr.
The EV6010 is so well designed and so quiet there is no need to remote the radiator.
I put a ES6500 Honda in the A/C bay of my 4905.
The ES model is just a portable version of the 6010.
I run 2 a/c's and my apt size fridge underway without a problem.
The frame is mounted to a slide out for service and the power pigtails are lone enough to run with
it extended.
I set it up as a 220v source. It didn't like using its two 110 legs.
Good unit, except for needing dual fuels, as stated earlier.
Cliff
Cliff,
What is the advantage of the 220v setup? What do you have in the bus that uses 220 or do you split it like a 50a setup?
I have one 13.5BTU AC hooked to the 20a leg and the 30a leg to all the rest including another seldom used 13.5 AC. Seems to work very well and I have separate plugs for RV park hookups also.
Mark,
The real source of heat from the Honda is the exhaust system. There is major heat blowing down from the exhaust manifold inside the box and radiating from the exhaust pipe and muffler. I wrapped my exhaust pipe and muffler with the wet blanket product from EPH which took care of the heat problem. I had to actually insulate the bus floor structural members from the exhaust manifold heat, it was heating up the whole bus!
I've had 2 honda generators and I've always been impressed with the job they do, I'm not familier with that particular model but was surprised at the fuel usage. .84 gallons per hour, almost a gallon an hour. My honda 3000I is a miser, at regular load is runs at 49db to 58db which is very quiet and will run about 20 hours on a 3 gallon tank, my plan is to get a second one and couple them, that will give me 6000 watts and almost 50 amp and still be very quiet in use with minimal fuel consumption. The new ones also have the economy mode so the RPM's is related to the load, unless I'm using an a/c unit or an electric heater, mine just idles.
That 0.84 gal/hr is for full load which seldom occurs. Mine runs about 0.5 on average and is used mostly to run one 13.5 AC and the refrigerator with maybe a couple of lights while under way.
Fortunately the 4104 already has a stock 24 gl gas tank installed for the old Continental engine used to power the AC compressor. A nice setup. With that capacity I just don't worry about fuel consumption.
Quote from: gus on January 31, 2008, 08:07:54 PM
Cliff,
What is the advantage of the 220v setup? What do you have in the bus that uses 220 or do you split it like a 50a setup?
Gus,
For some reason it didn't like the panel being fed from the two 110 twist locks on the generator,
It would trip one of the breakers (on genset) after several hours at random.
I switched to the 220 as a test and it never happened again.
I still have the same load on the same side of the panel.
YMMV
Cliff
Cliff,
I'm still not clear what you did? Did you have two separate circuits in the panel at first? I assume you now have two 110 circuits?
The problem may have been that the two were not balanced, one is 20a and the other30a. The 20a circuit is marked AC on mine.
I have no problem with mine because of the way I have them loaded. Maybe Honda did it that way to avoid heavier wiring for a 50a circuit, who knows?