Found some problems with my rear roof cap today, damaged in a few areas and not able to redo the rivits to structure, fiberglass edges broken off and water leaking in. Probably best to put a new cap on. Where can I find one for an 89 Prevost 40' xl. The prevost replacement was $4000.00 as of the last quote that I got. Who are you guys using for a cap on roof raises?
Hey Steve
An alternative would be R & M Fiberglass, they have website but not all things are listed there, usually have to call. While $4K seems alot, my experience with Prevost has been they usually are the cheapest especially since they pay frieght and you will have to pay freight from Washington state to CT for R & M, but worth pricing.
On another note, did you get my emails on the windows? Are you still wanting to do something or did you find an alternative.
Rob
91 LeMirage XL
Missouri
Any possibility of having a boat/marine place that works on fiberglass boats repair the cap? There might a local place that sells fiberglass, epoxy/polyester resin, and other composite supplies that can recommend someone to do the repairs. (We have such a place here in Minneapolis.) One other place to check might be a shop that works on fiberglass cars llike the Corvette.
I repaired mine with the West System epoxy method, I even filled in an 11" strip from raising the roof. If you need any info or pictures, let me know.
Ray D
I'm with belfert, anyone that works on fiberglass (Or for the purest's 'fibreglass') can usually repair almost anything.
They can take a bad section out and refiberglass the void and you won't know it.
One thought is why did it crack/break? Can you do something to befef it up so it doesn't happen again?
Thanks
Jack
I filled in the holes left by removing the louvers and screen on my rear cap, and I'd never done any glass work before.
The louvers hole was about 2' by 6' and the hole the screen on top made was about 1.5' by 6'. Done 2 years ago for under $200
Fiberglass repair can be just as stron or even stronger than the original was when new.
It's kinda messy so buy rubber or latex gloves.
I got a lot of info from this site: http://www.fibreglast.com/contentpages-main-Learning-Center-283.html
This site will help you through the hardest part of doing it, learning what works with what. They do a good job of explaining the process.
I had a little phone help from my brother who is very good at it.
It is pretty easy to do, just stay away from polyester and use the epoxy as it is stronger.
I got all of my components from U.S. Composites. (do a web search) They are reasonably priced but not the only place available.
Good luck and don't hesitate to ask if you need help as there are several members here who do glass work. I'm sure anyone of them would be glad to help.
Ed
As noted, make darn sure you wear gloves when working with resins for fiberglass. A respirator is also recommended. Some resins will cause you to become allergic to them if you deal with them unprotected for too long.
Boat glass and automotive glass are not the same thing and will delaminate if used togather.
Quote from: NJT 5573 on December 31, 2007, 11:24:45 AM
Boat glass and automotive glass are not the same thing and will delaminate if used togather.
What is the difference between the two? I know there is fiberglass mat and fiberglass cloth, but I had never heard about delamination between different types of fiberglass.
I need to repair a crack in my rear cap. I was just planning to grid down the area around the crack and rebuild it with a few layers of regular fiberglass cloth and resin. I'm hoping I don't have to worry about what to use.
The only mistake I know of is to use a "non-laminating" resin that has wax in it to make the finish coat shiney. The wax will cause delamination just like the wax in mold release agents. My knowledge is pretty slim here though. Don't try to build anything up with finishing resin but if you do have to apply over it just be sure to really sand it up really good.
HTH
John
one must sand any fiberglass to add new glass/resin.
Glass is Glass, the difference is in the type of resin.
Polyesther resin vs epoxy resin.
Epoxies are far better on repairs and will bond better. You can also put additives in the epoxies to give it gap filling properties, make the final coats easier sanding and an additive to make it a good fairing compound. I have been using this for quite a few years and I love it.
Here is a link to the West System, click on the "Using West system epoxies" and there is a user manual. It will explain a lot.
http://www.westsystem.com/
Ray D
found a link comparing the two.
http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/22/fiberglass.html
Ray D