Fellows i found this website for heat while i was looking for others things and it may work for some of you www.solarhaven.org/hparticle.htm (http://www.solarhaven.org/HPArticle.htm) hope i got it right Richard thanks for getting the address right
Neat. I actually aquired a Model A grill shell that I am going to use as the "box" and fab a radiator behind it with a fan. This sounds to be very similar. Any reason that wouldn't work?? I think it will look cool and be functional at the same time.
Hot Rods forever!! ;D
Chaz
Hi makemineatwostroke,
Great link...
This system can be a very good meathod of heating for a bus. The one problem that would have to be solved is the configuration of
LP heater. The fact that most, "not all" LP heaters tend to loose their pilot lite when traveling down the road or in heavy winds.
To solve this, a intermitent pilot module would be the best retrofit to ignight the pilot only when the system calls for heat.
The BTU's are certinly there.. and, this system can be built with redundency, like have the loop feed into a small electric H2O heater
or one of thoose combo LP/Elect. ones to also heat the system when you are in a campground with prepaid electric. [save on LP]
Thanks for posting
Nick-
Here are the diagrams from your link
makemineatwostroke,
Since I live in Florida and don't generally travel to the upper states during the really cold months, I have a limited need for a proheat type et all type heating system.
But I have wanted to put in something during my current stage of building my bus.
I have been thinking of something similar, but your post and Nicks input have cemented my plan.
I already have the DW12(12 gallon)RV propane/electric water heater (only on electric) and I just acquired a 6 gallon (3 months old) under sink water heater that I swapped out for a larger model for a side job customer. Combined I have 18 gallons of hot water storage.
So now I only need the fan/heater cores(found a bunch on line) and circulating pump.
All I can say is THANKS. Sometimes its just nice to see and hear part of your ideas confirmed.
What about a tap (not in the heater loop) for my house HW source? Any problem I am not thinking about?
I am also thinking that if the pump is off I shouldn't have to worry about heat being generated from the cores in the Summer, or should
I have a valve, manual or electric to eliminate this loop?
Darn, another project started by just checking the board! ;D
Cliff
Hi Cliff,
This is what you need to make domestic hot water... e-bay# 200130125373
Flat plate heat exchanger.
Nick-
Very Cool!! I'm glad Nick has given his blessing. There are many things I have thought would work but it's always good to get a Pro's blessing!! :)
Nick, I checked that plate heat exchanger out. I take it that since you recommend it, it's a good one. (obviously - to the best of your knowledge) But is there any thing else one should know about them?? Could this also be used for engine coolant to heat the water? Just curious.
Thanx makemineatwostroke,
Chaz
your hooked up now, Cliff. :)
Quote from: Chaz on November 25, 2007, 05:04:36 PM
Very Cool!! I'm glad Nick has given his blessing. There are many things I have thought would work but it's always good to get a Pro's blessing!! :)
Nick, I checked that plate heat exchanger out. I take it that since you recommend it, it's a good one. (obviously - to the best of your knowledge) But is there any thing else one should know about them?? Could this also be used for engine coolant to heat the water? Just curious.
Thanx makemineatwostroke,
Chaz
your hooked up now, Cliff. :)
Hi Chaz,
I have purchaced this heat ex from this company and a few others.
The one that I displayed is good for hot water domestic use. "it's the smallest they carry". There are other sizes that they also sell that will
be suiteable for the engine side.
Nick-
Great! Thanx Nick. I'm not sure what I would be looking for, but I like those things and they seem to be the "hot ticket" (sorry ;D) for doing some of the stuff I want to.
'preciate the help,
Chaz
Is this heating system a closed loop for herating only or is it somehow tied into the coach hot water syatems(i.e. for showers and stuff)?
Thanks
Fred Mc.
Great coolant heat exchange design for most transfer due to thin plate instead of thick tubing in most cases. However there is one down side.....you need a good high flow filter to avoid pluging up multiple .084" to .094" passage.
Click this link: http://www.flatplate.com/pdf/hydronic/InstallationTips.pdf
Read the following before purchasing it:
1) Water Strainer
2) Water Quality
3) Glycols
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
Quote from: Fred Mc on November 26, 2007, 09:08:42 PM
Is this heating system a closed loop for herating only or is it somehow tied into the coach hot water syatems(i.e. for showers and stuff)?
Thanks
Fred Mc.
I'm also wondering this. If it's for just a heating system, there probably should be some sort of antifreeze. If there's antifreeze, there'll need to be a way to ensure none of it leaves the system (no open connection to the potable water supply). If this is the case, shouldn't there be an expansion tank? If this heat is just 'stolen' from the domestic hot water system, will there be any issues with corrosion in the fan coils or the possibility of lines freezing when not in use? I'm just asking, as I saw the link in the OP a couple of years ago and thought it seemed pretty creative... like something I might do at some point.
David
Hi David,
I will try and explain it. The flat plate design has two sides or two compartments that are heat transfured between eachother.
One side would be your domestic water which could be downline from your Hot water heater. The other side will be your Proheat/ webasto
or engine coolant, and yes, either antifreeze, glycol, or plain old hot water if you live in the south. As far as pressure, if you are using the
proheat/webasto set-up, then a pressure tank is not needed since the temps. are operateing at 180 deg. You will need an expantion
tank of some kind to allow the liquid to expand when heated.
Hope this helps
Nick-
Hi Nick,
I understand. I was thinking of the design in the original pic where it appears that the heater coil is just paralleled with the domestic water system. Thanks for the details.
David
Quote from: Nick Badame Refrig. Co. on November 28, 2007, 04:24:55 PM
Hi David,
I will try and explain it. The flat plate design has two sides or two compartments that are heat transfured between eachother.
One side would be your domestic water which could be downline from your Hot water heater. The other side will be your Proheat/ webasto
or engine coolant, and yes, either antifreeze, glycol, or plain old hot water if you live in the south. As far as pressure, if you are using the
proheat/webasto set-up, then a pressure tank is not needed since the temps. are operateing at 180 deg. You will need an expantion
tank of some kind to allow the liquid to expand when heated.
Hope this helps
Nick-
Who has the best price for the pumps that are talked about in the article? Is that the best pump to use? Thanks Kent
Hi Kent,
The pump that you will use will be the one that fits your application. So, it really depends on how you will be building your system.
1- a magnetic drive pump will only be used when you will have two different sources of moving the coolant in the same system. [two pumps]
2- next comes flow rate. how many gallons per hour does your heater require?
3- then comes voltage. 115v ac, 12v dc, 24v dc, ??? what is the best way for your setup?
After determining your layout, then you can tell us what pump you went with..
Good Luck
Nick-