I am beginning conversion of an MCI-9. I am looking at trying to salvage much of the exterior aluminum skins - but they look TERRIBLE. Any thoughts on trying to restore some of the aluminum's original lustre? (Aluminum polish of some type or maybe a rubbing compound??)
(I'm sure that someone must have asked this in the past - but couldn't find it in a search...)
Thanks.
AB
Hi abebris
I have been trying to clean up the oxidized panel on my bus I have tried everything everybody suggested nothing seemed to work.
I found a company that is sending me a sample of there product, after they saw the attached picture they said no problem our product will clean that. I will report back as soon as I receive the product and try it.
Quote from: abebris on November 10, 2007, 03:08:44 PM
I am beginning conversion of an MCI-9. I am looking at trying to salvage much of the exterior aluminum skins - but they look TERRIBLE. Any thoughts on trying to restore some of the aluminum's original lustre? (Aluminum polish of some type or maybe a rubbing compound??)
(I'm sure that someone must have asked this in the past - but couldn't find it in a search...)
Thanks.
AB
The panels on the 9 aren't Aluminum... They are stainless steel and will require a lot of work with a buffer and rouge. Good Luck!
;)
Dallas
abebris i don't own a MCI but i helped a friend of mine polish his 102 and he used a product by 3m called 3000 extra cut compound with the foam polishing pad by 3m also.It took about 6 hrs and has a mirror shine.the compound cost $46.00 per quart and took 2 quarts and the pad was about $20.00.the 3m # is 6060 as they make different grades
Hi....I too have an all aluminum exterior (Crown Supercoach) , but it is anodized. Once the anodize finish is removed, it begins to look pretty sad after a few months. I am the second owner since new and the prior owner had attempted to remove some scratches, etc, and along with it the original finish. So they painted it to look like anodized Aluminum. Looked very good overall but due to flaking I removed all paint. This was only on a bay door or two, but I figured I could never get it to match.
I replaced the entire front and rear with standard 16 gage alum panel and it looks fine, but, of course has many scratches in the finish from fabrication process. Consequently, I have decided to paint the entire coach and have it done right. Again will try to approximate the anodized finish.... and use a clearcoat.
Interesting post about the 3Mm product. I might just look into that.
FWIW
RCB
howdy guys. I have a 4905 gm and a 78 mci. gm has aluminun and the mci is stainless and if you need polishing to keep them shinny, after you buff the alum, clean with laquer thinner and paint with clear laquer.. It has worked for airstream for years and I enjoyed not doing it again except spraying on liquid wax. gee I must be getting older or smarter, I prefer the latter thank you. On stainless I buffed and then LIQUID wax again.
gomer
I recently was paid to try numerous products.
cheapest and least labor intensive: Boiled Linseed oil
second best: Flitz
the boilded linseed oil did nothing to remove water spots on my bus. all it did was oil it up so dust could stick to it. Mothers Mag Polish has been as good as anything i have tried.
Hi Guy's,
If you want to bring aluminum back to a new looking state, it will take some steps...
1- Acid wash with a approved aluminum stripper. [check a local metals coater] or use the stuff we use for HVAC coils. "Alumabrite"
2- Wash entire surface with soapy water and flush well.
3- As Dallas states, rouge and a buffer with lots of elbows....
4- if you want to keep it new looking, Seal it with an acrylic coating.
I would say, Paint it... Self etching primer, seal it, then paint it!
Good Luck
Nick-
Is this guy trying to polish aluminum or stainless the 3M product we used was on stainless siding on a MCI
No experiance with large bus panels, but I just got through polishing up some aluminum parts on my motorcycle. "Never-Dull" works with a lot of rubbing. On the porous castings I just used wd-40 and a scotchbrite pad. It leaves the grayish patina on the cases but cuts through the oxidation deposits.