Ok. I have to work on the air system right around the drive wheels. This requires me to get under the bus and of course release all the air out of the system. I want to do the following and want some feedback if this will be good enough (SAFETY FIRST). I want to jack the rear end up at the jack point in front of the drive tires. Then I plan on using rail road ties (blocks) to use as cribbing. I then plan on using 12 ton jack stands as secondary back up. Finally, I plan on having two 20 ton bottle jacks right up against the body rail as a third fall back.
Right now I sure wish I had one of those fancy pits!
You thoughts on rather I have sought this sucker through enough. I sure do not want to get under this beast until I am pretty sure I will not have any problems.
thanks for the input!
Grant
Sacramento
Do you have to take the drive wheels off?
Remember to look at the ground surface as well. You may need hardwood planks to spread the load and ensure that jacks and jack-stands won't sink into the dirt or break through asphalt.
No drive wheels do not have to come off. I plan on using 1/2 thick steel plate on anything we use to jack up with.
Grant
Better to be a chicken than a chicken cutlet.
We have 15k jackstands and use RR ties to support the body sometimes.
I use 12 ton bottle jacks too.It really depends on the task I'm doing.
What exactly are you planning to do under there?
Good luck. 8)
If you don't have to pull the wheels, why not just drive it up on some of your rail road tires. Ramp up using 2x4's followed by 4x4's, followed by 6x6s or railroad tires. One on each side would do, but two on each side would be better. If you get it centered on the ties, you'll have plenty of room to crawl under and do your work, even with the suspension fully deflated.
Right now, the only thing I can tell is that I have a big air leak somewhere in the middle right in front of the drive tires. I know there is a couple of valves there so I will need to first see which one is leaking and then take it out and rebuild or replace. I will get the drive tires up on the railroad ties and then crib the frame. Do you think the 12 ton jacks would be enough to support the weight of the back end? Of course along with the cribbing.
Thanks
Say Gumpy, did you ever see the shots of my hitch? I used many of your ideas when I made mine.
Thanks for all your photos they really helped.
Grant
If it is on a level solid concrete surface and all rear wheels are sitting centrally on wide solid timber blocks and the (front) wheels are chocked, and the airbags are down or plywood packers inserted between the bumper stops, I can't see any point in jacking or blocking anything up because it merely introduces potential instability and restricts access.
You don't need to get the wheels up more than 6" off the ground to be able to get adequate access to the suspension and brake components.
Honestly you're probably over doing it. Keep it simple so you can check things quickly to make sure everything is solid. Solid wood ramps are about the most fool proof way to stay safe, cheaply. More variables induces more stress.
Quote from: grantgoold on October 13, 2007, 09:14:54 PM
Say Gumpy, did you ever see the shots of my hitch? I used many of your ideas when I made mine.
Thanks for all your photos they really helped.
Was there a post on that? I don't remember. Refresh my memory where the photos are.
Glad my photos were helpful. I'd love to see it. I'm going to have to rebuild mine eventually to accomodate a
rear bumper, and I'd like to make it so it can hold more tongue weight. Devin had one put on this summer that was very well done, and
I'll probably use some of those ideas. Would like to see details on yours also.
Grant, I cut 3x3x1/4 square tube and place under the rubber stops to hold the body up. Just to keep it from coming down. Tom Y
"Right now, the only thing I can tell is that I have a big air leak somewhere in the middle right in front of the drive tires. I know there is a couple of valves there"
Isn't that where your Air Dryer is ?
Niles, my bad, I say drive tires vs. tag axle tires in the back of the bus. Can you think of a better name?
Grant
;)
A set of ramps is an exellent investment in safety as well as ease of getting your bus off the ground. There are drawings in the arcives on the GMC-busnuts board. We built a pair and they work very well. If you cant find them in the archives email me off board and I'll send you a copy along witha couple of pics.
Blessings,
David davidbsweet at netzro.com
PD4104-2977
Winton, CA
David,
Why don't you post the pictures or drawings here? I am sure there are a lot of us that would like to see them. I know I would. ;)
Paul
Quote from: Dreamscape on October 14, 2007, 08:17:19 PM
David,
Why don't you post the pictures or drawings here? I am sure there are a lot of us that would like to see them. I know I would. ;)
Paul
Paul, here is what I have on home made ramps.
WVaNative
I tried to get all three but only one at a time will come up. So here is another.
WVaNative
And the last one
Here is a picture of the drawing.
Thanks for the drawings and photos. I think I am going to make a set like the last photo. What kinkd of wood did you use?
Buddydaug, I'm not sure what kind wood is used but the 2"x12" boards at the home center will be fine. I wouldn't use any soft woods, but use only hard woods, because your life will depend on a strong ramp. My guess is they don't make 2"x12" out of soft woods anyway.
WVaNative
Most Home Centers that have 2x12 are made from either douglas fir or pine, which is soft wood. You would have to go to a hardwood specialty place to find oak in that size. And that's what I would use. Would be pretty pricey too, but much cheaper than the cost of some one's life!
Paul
for a ramp like that that's bolted together, I would not want to use oak, too heavy, and I don' think it buys you more safety. I made one lke that out of fir, bolted together, has held very nicely, but is still very very heavy. unless I am just too weak. I got the idea from a local charter company that has a set just like that, made out of fir. They have used it daily for years with no issues. No sense in way over engineering it out of fear of the unknown.
Grant,
I have 4 ramps like the #2 ones.
I have used them for years without a worry.
They are glued and screwed together, all holes were predrilled to avoid any splitting.
I keep two in the coach and two at home. Use all four at home to work on the brakes, etc....
Even if all the air was let out of the coach I could get out easily.
Of course while laying under there, I always think, "what if the tires went flat too". ;D
Even if I dont need it I block the body too.
Just throw a little scratch feed under there and the chickens will come a running.....LOL ;D
Cliff
Here is the setup we came up with. The ramps are 3 ties tied together with a short ramp. They can also be moved easily. We then have three ties together for the run out the back end. I have the bus up and when under the bus, I have ties supports under the jack points. Plenty of room ;D and more importantly feel a bit better. Something designed for a locomotive should be o.k. for the bus!
Grant
Nice fabrication work. Please don't forget to block the body too, so it cannot come down on you while you're under there. I block it under the rear rod tower, or support - where aft end of the lower radius rod boss is.
Stay safe. 8)