I bought a used Norcold 841 in California last year, great condition. It is installed but have not used it, propane is not plumbed. In reading the manual this morning, if I read it correctly I can put it in manual mode and just use the 120v. Also supplying the 12v power. Will it work?
On another thread Nick suggested flipping the unit upside down to help out the ammonia movement. Should I do this before applying power? I could not find anything in the manual that suggests that.
Any other hints would be appreciated as I have never used one of these. Another great learning process. ;D
Thanks,
Paul
Absorbtion Refrigerators run best on propane - but do very well on 110v
but the 12v heater is much smaller wattage - think of the 12 volt as more to sustain temp - once it's been cooled down
Flipping the refer (one side at a time / day - forgot the direction) - helps desolve crystals that may be blocking the path of the amonia - this is a last resort effort usually - you should need to do this - useless you plug it in and it doesn't cool
Paul, The message I printed from Fast Fred says lay it on its left side. I would not turn back on to quick when done. Tom Y
I believe the 12V supply you need to connect is for running the electronics (auto switch over etc...) and interior light.
Don & Sheila
Don
Many of the older models had a 12volt heater element - in addition to the 110v
the 12v heater will draw your house batteries down quickly
most new model don't come with a 12volt heater anymore
some model (older ones and the one's sold to Amish/Quacker/off grid/etc) don't even need 12 volts - they use a capillary tube and a magnetic switch to shut off the propane supply if the pilot goes out - they are also manual lighed by overriding the magnetic safety - once the flame expands the capillary tube the magnet moves foward and magneticly holds the propane valve open as long as there's a flame
Pete
Many of the rv fridges need 12V in addition to 120V to operate. I didn't mean that for 12V cooling. I don't think mine will operate without the 12V power supply, whether it's on 120V or propane. Most later models automatically switch over to propane when 120V is lost. 120V is primary source with propane being secondary, Unless you switch it off of "Auto" in which case it runs on propane.
I don't know the year of the Norcold so I can't say for sure. When I bought my Dometic the guy just had it plugged in to the wall and it was working fine. Without the 12 V hook-up the interior light, and the "auto switch" didn't work.
Don & Sheila
Hi Don,
Your temp sensor won't work either. The purpose of the 12v is to operate the electronic board and 12v light. this way if there is no 115v presant,
your reefer will still work on LP along with the light and electronics.
Good Luck
Nick-
I hooked the 12v and 120v just now, will wait and see how long it takes to cool down.
I am learning alot from reading this and other threads on this type of fridge, keep the comments coming.
Thanks for the advice,
Paul
get that norcold cked for any recalls i just had mine done,it was a hassell but done and over with the 841.3 that i have will switch down from lp 2 110 2 12 volt what ever is availble but 12 volt always needs 2 be connected ps that get hot on the exhaust tube very hot cant even put ur hand on it so be carefull
hello from tyler texas
while i was in the a/c business i walked away on only one unit and it was a bryant gas air conditioner and the amonia refrig are in the same class. they can really work on you. also the pilot on the water heater blowing out is another one. thanks jt.
Quote from: johnjem on September 06, 2007, 05:13:29 PM
get that norcold cked for any recalls i just had mine done,it was a hassell but done and over with the 841.3 that i have will switch down from lp 2 110 2 12 volt what ever is availble but 12 volt always needs 2 be connected ps that get hot on the exhaust tube very hot cant even put ur hand on it so be carefull
Ours is not a three way, it's either 120v or propane, N841F I will check the recall list, thanks for the heads-up.
Paul
When a new cooling unit was installed at the S&S dealership I worked at, the standard check for cooling was to fill a coffee can with water and put it inside the refer overnight with the t-stat cranked to "MAX" In the morning it should be frozen solid.
Just FYI
Dale
FWI
It worked, nice and cold.
I'll remember the coffee can trick for future reference.
Thanks,
Paul
Dreamscape,
Glad the refrig works so you can have cold libation now.
A couple of things (hopefully without getting into the debate of having gas appliances on going down the road)
Safety check: Once the unit is on..turn off the main gas valve then turn it back on. This is to make sure that the
pilot and main burner safety system is working. (more a peace of mine they seem to be reliable but
I have had one stick open as it were) with the autolight pilots it should try and relight itself. Watch
and make sure it is working correctly. Read and check any reset procedures. oh Safety first!
I have had the burner go out going down the road so the first thing I do when I arrive is check to make sure
everything is working correctly on any gas appliance, part of my arrival procedure.
FWIW
Skip
Skip,
Right now we are not using propane, not plumbed yet. But as I turned the unit on it was in auto and I could hear the pilot clicking trying to fire. I put the unit in manual AC, working very good.
Thanks for the advice for future propane hookup.
Paul