I am planning on using upholstery material stretched over closed cell upholstery foam on my wall under the windows, as well as making some ceiling panels. My original thought was to use 1/8 inch masonite as a backing materiel to apply the foam to, and strech the material over it.
Has anyone done this, and should I consider using plywood, and if I go the masonite route, do you think it matters if its tempered masonite or is the non-tempered ok?
Hi Jim,
I have used the 1/4" masonite on my ceiling panels, padded and covered with ultra suede.
After 2 months, the panels started warping. I then replaced all the masonite with 1/4" luan plywood.
Some of the luan panels started to do the same but not near as bad as the masonite. So, I tried some corrugated PVC
I obtained from an upholster, but they were too heave and also flimsy.. My fix on the entire problem... I cut all new
Luan panels and painted both sides to stabilize them, then recovered with the ultra suede. Problem solved!
Good Luck
Nick-
I wonder if you painted the masonite, or used the tempered type if that would solve the problem as well.
It sounds as if the issue is moisture, with more of it on one side than the other. The side with more moisture expands more and you have a warp.
What do you think?
How about using sintra, lexan, or phenolic sheet, it's more expensive, but it will never creep due to humidity changes.
A very nice quality would be to be able to put staples in it. masonite, foam, upholstery material, gets wrapped around the back and stapled. Lexan would shatter, I'm not sure about the others.
Cheap is a good quality too if it meets theother requirements.
I bought my 8 finished. But I can tell you that I have used ABS sheets on all the street rods I've built over the years. It is absolutely moisture proof. I tried the water resistant board available through upholstery shops - it doesn't work here in the south with the high humidity.. A local upholstery shop I do business with sells me the abs sheets at his cost because I buy all my upholstery materials from him. I get it in 4x8 sheets and the cost is around $60.00 each. A little high, but well worth it in this climate. FWIW
Hi Jim,
Here is a couple photo's of my finished ceiling with the luan backing and held up with 3M Duel Lock.
I'll never use Ultra suede on a ceiling again.... Forever brushing to remove hand prints, ect...
Nick-
The substrates that I posted about are not that conducive to being stapled. Any auto trim that I have worked with has been glued on so I didn't consider staples in my recommedations.
LUAN
Nick - If you got 'LuAnn' stuck on your ceiling - you're using CRAZY glue - I hope you didn't staple her -
How about using adhesive and whatever covering desired right over the aluminum panels on the ceiling? Mine are in great shape with very few dents. I've also thought about using lauan over the aluminum hoping the alum. panels would prevent any warping. That might be an unnecessary step, as the alum. panels might provide a sturdy enough base. Have others done this with good results?
David
Nick, whats that on the ceiling inbetween your panels? Is that paint, mirror acrylic, other fabric?
Niles,
If I had LuAnn stuck on my ceiling, I'd be doing more then messing with Crazy glue...... ;D
Jim,
Between my panels is Brushed Stainless Steel 2" wider then the panels. Just for effect.
Nick-
Luan, Laun, ABS sheet, plywood, no one mentioned what adhesive or which foam backing to use! :o
Pat
I was going to use landau adhesive as it does well in high heat situations. For foam I am using a dense 1/4 inch closed cell foam thats made for this purpose.
My only question was what to use for the backer board and how to fasten the material to it (staples?).
I was planning on using velcro to hold it to the walls.
Nick, what specifically did you use to hold your panels to the ceiling?
Jim ... I use 1/4 Luan, painted both sides, with 1/2 closed cell foam glued to the luan, on the face and edges, then Naugahyde was stretched over the foam and stappled on the back side.
Ron
Ron
Did you use 3M dual lock, christmas tree or some other sort of fastner to hold them up?
Cliff
Hi Cliff ... no I did. As you can see in the picture I have a dropped centre section, the A/C comes out along the edge of the center section and the return is under the mirror, see PDF attachment. Because the ceiling is in 3 setions I could hide all the screws.
Ron,
Very clever install!
Thanks for the explanation of how it all functions.
Cliff
Yea ... it took a little head scratching .... ;D ... I ran all my electrical in the ceiling so I wanted access to it, getting it all to work and look good was a challenge
Ron
hey jim
just got the ceiling up in the prevost and looks nice. i use the 1/8 th inch thermal board finish on both sides, glued 3/16 th closed cell foam same as the landau tops for cars. then glued the vynil onto the foam. so far it is not warped on me, thanks j.t
Quote from: H3Jim on September 05, 2007, 06:34:48 AM
I was going to use landau adhesive as it does well in high heat situations. For foam I am using a dense 1/4 inch closed cell foam thats made for this purpose.
My only question was what to use for the backer board and how to fasten the material to it (staples?).
I was planning on using velcro to hold it to the walls.
Nick, what specifically did you use to hold your panels to the ceiling?
Hi jim,
3M Duel Lock 3"x1" every 10" the duel lock has good adhesive but, I still stapled it on both ceiling and panel. It's real hard to get that
stuff apart.... I also left my emergency hatches in place, they are cleverly hidden by my panels if needed.
Nick-
Quote from: prevost82 on September 05, 2007, 10:21:34 AM
Jim ... I use 1/4 Luan, painted both sides, with 1/2 closed cell foam glued to the luan, on the face and edges, then Naugahyde was stretched over the foam and stappled on the back side.
Ron
Hi Ron,
Real nice job... I like the effect!
I used all the same as you with the exception of 1/4" foam instead of 1/2".
Nick-