I just got back with my new "turd tank" (can I say that? ;D ) lolol
It looks like I'm going to have a slight angle for the "drop" :D (this is killin me!). How much is allowable?
Trust me, if there is ANYTHING I want to get right and NEVER have to touch again, this is it!! :P But it looks like the angle may be as much as 40*. It looks like the "slide" :D will be about 15". I know straight is ideal, but it would be tough to get any better angle.
Will it work?? What's your best guess? Should I have a can of PAM or WD40 next to the throne?? Or just eat lots of salsa? LOLOLOLOLOLOL I did see a coach with a sink sprayer next to it. I think that may be a good idea either way.
Oh man........... I'm so nervous about this I can't even get serious for fear I'll puke! :P ;)
Have mercy on me,
Chaz
Chaz,
I would see if there is some way to get a steeper angle on the drop. I used an offset flange with a 6" drop and every once in a while I still have to get Cat's favorite knitting needle out to "nudge" the brown trout into the pool.
Shhhhh.... don't tell her!
Plop!! Plop!!
Fizz Fizz
Oh, What a relief it is!
Chaz,
The RVIA code allows a single 45 degree offset in the 'drop'. They don't limit the amount of offset, it's just got to be at 45 degrees. I too have an offset, mine is only affset about 4" with 2 45 degree fittings. Haven't had any 'stickers' yet but we havent used it a lot either. You gotta do what you gotta do.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
straight is preferable. Then you can shine a flashlight into the throne and see how full the tank is. But I and others have ended up in the same shituation. I have seen the distance between potty and tank as much as 2 feet!! Mine is a 12 inch drop about 4 inch off center. Accomplished with 2 45 degree street ell's and a fernco. With no problems in 6 years.
The Things you need to take into consideration, not much will stick to PVC so within reason if the water will flow, so will the poop (dont eat a lot of starches) The less angle the more water will be required to move the product.
The more angle and the longer the run the less chance you have of inserting a tank cleaning wand. I installed a 3 inch cleanout near the top of my tank.
HTH Jim
While we are at it. In hindsight I would vent my tank with a tee as near the bottom of the toilet as I could. The gases rise most go out the vent, but the pipe between the toilet and the tank is a perfect collection point, you flush the toilet, you release the gas!! Some people say this is never a problem. Cant smell I guess.
I saw how people were putting there drains out therough the floor of the bay and thought it was a great idea. Its not, it has been a real PIA. I am sitting in a RV park in Cape Coral FL, where the sewer pipe is above the floor of the bay. I have to play with the hose for 20 minutes every time I dump and I may be here for a year. It is no fun at dump stations where the pipe is up high either. There has got to be a better way!!
:'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
Aaaaahhhhhhh s**t!!!!!!! What's a poor boy to do?? :-\ I'm going to try and do the install tomorrow so if there is any tricks that I can do, PLEEEEEEEEEEEASE let me know! Why couldn't we all be like rabbits?? LOLOL
By the way, the tank I have will be easy enough to clean when necessary. But I have been following the "Black tank cleaning" thread and it seems that a person doesn't want to keep it perfectly clean. And since it seems that "everything" contains lye, would it be a good idea to drop some yeast or yogurt or whatever in there to keep a good colony poop munchers? Just a thought. ???
Thanx for the help on such a sh**ty topic,
Chaz
Chaz
Just be sure to have a connector between the toilet and tank.
I have an offset in my installation also and have had no problems.
Good Luck
Melbo
Quote from: Chaz on August 22, 2007, 05:31:25 PM
:'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
Aaaaahhhhhhh s**t!!!!!!! What's a poor boy to do?? :-\ I'm going to try and do the install tomorrow so if there is any tricks that I can do, PLEEEEEEEEEEEASE let me know! Why couldn't we all be like rabbits?? LOLOL
By the way, the tank I have will be easy enough to clean when necessary. But I have been following the "Black tank cleaning" thread and it seems that a person doesn't want to keep it perfectly clean. And since it seems that "everything" contains lye, would it be a good idea to drop some yeast or yogurt or whatever in there to keep a good colony poop munchers? Just a thought. ???
Thanx for the help on such a sh**ty topic,
Chaz
You will build up natural enzymes to chomp the turds, but you could add some "Rid-X" if you had to.
My black tank is steel.... an ex-step tank in a "D" configuration from an old truck. I don't know if it's dirty in there or not, but I ain't stickin' MY hand in there to find out! It's fine the way it is. I never empty it until it's about full, which is usually about once per week. That way the natural enzymes get to swim and frolic amongst the trout, doing their jobs, having lots of fun.
Just my way.
Dallas
Chaz,
Just don't put things that kill the 'munchers' in the black tank. You'll have a colony of 'munchers' soon after commisioning the black tank. Yogurt and yeast will help but eat the yogurt first and get the yeast from beer but drink it first.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
QuoteJust be sure to have a connector between the toilet and tank.
What kind of connector?
I will be drilling a 3" hole in the top of the tank and using a rubber bushing with a hose clamp. jjrbus mentioned a fernco. Is that the connector you are referring to?
I have been out playing with my new toy tonite - sad huh - and if it's not feasible to do it this way, I will have to redo the water tank and put the waste tank in it's place. :'( Not something I was wanting to do as I need to get it done sooooooooon. And that also means I need to pull out the vanity and move the toilet over to that spot, etc. Major. :-\ I need to check my drawings first.
Time to sleep on it,
Chaz
QuoteYogurt and yeast will help but eat the yogurt first and get the yeast from beer but drink it first.
I'll drink the beer and Linda can do the yogurt! ;D Ok, well, I don't drink beer anymore. I guess wine will have to do!! LOLOL :D
Chaz
Putting it straight up and down is not real good either as you may get some splash up through the toilet. A bowl full of water will certainly wash anything down up to a 45 degree angle. Putting a cleanout towards the base area will help also. Just make sure it's a 45 degree angle and a screw on cap.
My tank doesn't have a vent, the top flap is loose and it vents there (It appears to be a farm tractor spray tank). I know, I know-but that's the way the PO built it. Amazingly enough I've had no problems with it so far but do plan to run a vent through the floor.
Another really weird thing is that the commode is on the opposite side of the bus from the tank (one tank only) and the long sewer pipe (About 3') from it to the tank has very little slope!! According to everything I've read this won't work but it does, even on an opposite slanted parking spot?? And there are two 90* Ls in the liner??
This thing defies all common sense but works fine.
The only thing I can figure that makes it work is that we always use plenty of water to flush, good for the flushing and good for the one waste tank.
JR....About the difficult of dumping waste tank via gravity problem....would like to know why are you not use your macerator pump to dump? Maybe I missing something or reading it wrong.
Chaz.....If your tank is Polypropylene like most RV tank.......you can re-patch the offset hole by sawing & grind off the old thread portion. Plastic weld ¼" plate large enough to cover both the old hole & where new location of new to be "hole". Then have it "spin-weld" it on your new sewer fitting for a straight down path.
Or if you can...turn tank around so that new "spin-weld" fitting is install in correct location & plug the old one.
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
The black rubber connectors, elbows, y's with stainless steel clamps on each end are what I call "fernco" fittings.
Jerry I have my drainhose hooked up to the sewer for the grey bypass and do not want to unhook it then use the macerator, clean everything up and rehook, put evrything away and then do it all agaain next time.
I can tell you that too much worry is expelled over the solids running down hill. I have about a 6 inch drop under the toilet with a 90 degree, then going about three feet to another 90 degree into my black tank. In the 12 years the toilet has been in, only once did it clog-mainly because my then girlfriend (now wife) didn't use enough water to flush-nothing a bucket of water didn't take care of. I have a 45 gal black water tank and can easily go a week without dumping with the two of us on board. Good Luck, TomC
What? No pictures? ???
Thanx for the info guys. It's a new day and time to get with the program. ;)
By the way, Muddog, that is an interesting request. LOLOLOL :D :D :D But I know what you mean. ;)
My latest idea is to run the grey water over to the toilet drop tube and connect it close to the toilet and then when we use the shower or sinks, it can help push and clean.
What do ya think?? Feasible?
Thanx,
Chaz
About sewer drain line under commode....the least trouble free is to have it drop straight down and/or proper slope to tank. Too little slope and the water won't carry the solids away. Too much slope and the water runs so fast it drops the solids behind. The correct slope is 1/4" to the foot. However having this effective slope apply to RV is not practical because is not in leveled position while temporary parking or driving. In other word avoid #2 till it in level setting. It this fun traveling?
For those who has mild offset to require 45° elbows or less.....it should not have problem as long you make sure no soft solid is left on slope too long of time to cause it to dry-stick-on pipe so the next flush is unable to move onward to tank. Toilet paper when soak & wet will greatly help to keep pushing solid down till enter tank. After all it always follow the solid....Right!
Best choice is to have it straight down so you have the extra advantage to see waste water & much easier to run a rinsing pipe probe into tank from RV commode opening. If your Polypropylene tank is anywhere under your RV commode...by all mean have a "spin-weld" on the inlet vertically to commode....to be in your advantage in the long run.
Now at 69 going on 70, I have done a few dig-up to repair plug-up sewer drain due to not only collapse or broken tile replacement but unbroken sewer line with improper slope that is plugged with dry & packed solids. That where I learned about slope problem. Since then have never being a problem.
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
Quote from: muddog16 on August 23, 2007, 02:56:01 AM
What? No pictures? ???
They'd be crappie if there were any!
sorry couldn't resist! ;D BK ;D
Chaz, you said something about moving the vanity for the toilet. The toilet should be the first thing you locate, and put it in a spot that has that stright drop. Is it too late to locate the toilet so it does have a more appropriate drop? It does seem from these posts that some angle works fine, partly dependent on how much water our tolilet uses to flush, and how much of the runs you have..
My toilet uses about a pint each time, but also does a good job of cleaning itself. I would not want to have much angle with so little water.
A septic specialist told me that no extra chemicals are needed. All the bacteria required is supplied by the "kids you drop off at the pool". Any thing else is just wasted $. and above all, don't put stuff in there that kills the bacteria, hard on the colony in your tank, hard on the system you dump in.
Your forgiven BK. ;D
Jim,
The bus already has the bathroom fixtures in place. I'm just trying to work with where they are in reference to my tanks. I would have to swap the vanity and toilet to get a straight drop. But then it would mess up the layout of the bathroom also. Dilemmas!!!! :-\
So it looks like it's going to have at least a 45* angle. I may put - for lack of a better word - squirter of sorts in the first 45* elbow under the toilet to shoot any kids down the slide that are hesitant about going swimming. :D lol
But I'm kinda liking the idea of plumbing the grey water into the drop tube as close to the first 45* elbow as I can. Wouldn't that be beneficial??
thanx guys.
Chaz, what was there before? or rather if the toilet is already in place, was there a tank beneath it already?
I also have two 90's with 24" in between and a slight downhill run. No problems at all.
Ross
same here ....
Ron
Man, Ron, if you don't have any issues, I don't believe I will. At least i hope not! ;)
Jim,
The PO had 3 55gal. plastic barrels in the bay. (One of each) It was a mess! and VEEEERY ineffecient use of space.
After looking at Ron's I think I will be ok. Thanx for the picture Ron. The kids will just have a quick slide instead of a platform dive. ;D
Ok, that's it!! enough of the poop humor. I'm making myself look bad! ;)
Thanx for the help guys. I REEEEALLY appreciate it!! This is something I wanted to get right the first time for obvious reasons.
Chaz
Nice picture Ron, so much for the conventional wisdom!!! Makes sense though, that plastic pipe is very slippery, add a little angle, and use the big pipoe, and no worries.
Chaz, got a chuckle out of the diving platform...
One other thing Chaz ...is to use plumbing clamps with the rubber insert, as seen is picture, plan it so you can remove your tank without having to cut any pipes.
Ron
Jerry,
That is all very interesting theory but mine and TomC's systems defy it all and they work fine??
I don't buy the "too much slope" part at all since a straight down is max slope?
Sometimes mine is actually at a slight neg slope due to parking location and it still works! Plenty of flushing water is the key.
I just finished a dig-up to repair a plugged sewer drain myself but it had nothing to do with slope or collapse and doesn't have much to do with buses.
One other way to dump the tank uphill is to use the sewer solution that has a water jet action and then it can drain the gray water and still be hooked up. I us one that way all winter in AZ with the gray continuously draing and then dump the black every couple of weeks. Jerry
Actually Jerry is right, that is why there are plumbing codes!!! Yours and Toms work fine but. Tom says 2 people can use a 40 gal tank 1 week befor dumping. With almost no offset 2 people in my bus with a 80 gal tank can go 1 month!!!! And I have people that can verify that. The more run you have the more water you will use. But we have to work with what we have.
The idea of grey water into the drop tube has a drawback, You will be adding water to your black tank and shortening the interval between dumps. When parked somewhere I want to be able to bypass the system and put the grey directly into the sewer.
But like Fast Fred always said, "Do it your way"
I have been wrestling with this mess all day. Here's what i think will work for me:
Kids slide down the slide on a 45* angle about 12" long. (I just can't get away from that >:()
Sinks drain right into the waste tank. (I guess a little extra water in there is ok from what I read) It is a 100 gallon tank.
Shower also drains into the waste tank, BUT, I put that extra shut off valve in the line to be able to drop the shower water on the ground or where ever.
All lines have fernco's in them for access.
I wanted to drop the sink water thru the "slide" but just don't have the room.
Tomorrow we "glue"! (unless of course somebody has any more suggestions ;))
Chaz
You'll be fine ... do it your way. I don't run any extra water down the poo hole, I have a sealand ceramic RV toilet. ... and I never have any of that ... poopy morning build-up ;D
Ron
Sounds good. I have a 12 inch drop with two 45* in it, no problem, and that is fulltiming for 6 years!!! Is there a way you can put in a bypass for all the greywater?
ie if you run the gray to the tank install a tee with a slide valve on the bottom, with the valve open it drops into the tank, closed it keeps going. If doing this it is a good idea to put a zerk grease fitting in the slide valve. they do not like being flat.
HTH Jim
QuoteIs there a way you can put in a bypass for all the greywater?
Not really. I mean it's possible, but I'm trying to keep the spaghetti to a minimum. :) It's a pretty clean minimalistic setup this way. And I don't think the water from the sinks are going to be all that much. As it stands the tanks are, 100 gal. clean, 100 gal. waste. I REALLY wanted to put in a grey tank and a black tank, but it just wasn't in the cards. I still really like that idea but I think this is a happy medium.
Thanx guys,
Chaz
ok, I couldn't stand it. I started gluing tonite! ::) ;D
"tomorrow we do ELECTRICITY!!!!" (God help me)
Chaz,
Stuff rolls down hill.
A 45 degree angle prevents an unwanted splash.
A little water in the bowl helps the Stuff go down.
These are the facts as I know them! :P
Cliff
Ya know what Cliff.......... Come to think of it, I don't even know how to use an RV pot!!!!!!! :o
Seriously!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is there a trick??
UH-OH,
Chaz
Since I have one 90gal waste tank I want all the liquid in it I can get, makes the solid stuff break up and dump much better.
Lift up on the flusher with your foot and it puts a little water in the bowl.
Down sends it to the abyss.
A little practice and its easier than shifting a spicer....LOL
Cliff
Chaz,
What are you doing for a tank vent?? Absolutely must have one!! Best is 2" through the roof, usually hidden in the shower wall.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
Cliff,
I have some sort of lever or valve kinda behind the left side of the seat. It's a Thetford, but other than that........? I'm assuming I can push it in two directions, but not sure. I'll check when I get out there this morning.
Jerry,
Unfortunately, I don't have any walls to take it up thru. Maybe a closet tho. But I was wanting to try something that I had read sometime ago, and run it thru the floor. Actually, 2 of them. one on either side. Once the pipe goes thru the floor, I am going to put a 45* elbow on it. One will face forward and the other backward.
If it's true that air (oxygen) keeps things from smelling - and I believe it is - this should give it all it wants. If not............. ::)............ I'll weld the plates back in and get creative thru the roof.
Trying not to be stinky,
Chaz
If you go travel the entire world you will not see a vent pipe through a floor.Ask yourself why? Except in a couple of bus conversions. In the process of decomposition things get warm, heat rises! Now if the vapors do come out, and there is no wind do you really want the smell sitting under your bus? Even if you used a power vent, you will still be sitting in the odor.
One elbow pointed forward? Seems like a recipe for disaster!!! I have a vison of the pressure blowing the water out of a trap and forcing the odor into the bus.
This is only my opinion of course, I may be wrong.
Chaz,
I ran a 2" pipe like Jerry described.
Works good, I also built a little venturi type cap on it with a tee and a reducer on the forward facing part of the tee.
My concern with the thru the floor is the same as jjr's.
But, If you have the time and want to experiment I would look forward to your results.
Sometimes the road least traveled is the most interesting.
I think the forward facing vent would cause a nose full if anyone flushed while driving.
Remember there is NO trap in a RV toilet.
Cliff
Pretty strong opinion there. :) But you may have a point. I AM the "new guy".
But to further explain:
The vent tube with the elbow forward is 1.5". The tube with the elbow backward is 2". I think that should help in the pressurization dept. And the 2'' will be on the drivers side away from the side we would be hanging out on most.
Plus, I was figuring that with enough air getting to it, the smell would be lessened a great deal. At least that is how I read some of the posts in this thread.
Hey, maybe it won't work! I seems good on paper. Has anyone else tried this?? It would certainly make life easier on me if it did work this way.
I'm always open to people's thoughts and ideas. (and areas of expertise! ;))
Just ventin,
Chaz
Just seen you wrote Cliff. Good point about the flushing while driving. Hmmmmmmm.........
my 2 cents, while were CHITtalkin
Mine came strait down with a ceramic Sealand(i think dont get close enough to read label) and has big ball valve like navy toilets.
strait down is just simpler, if something happens, it simpler to address. more complicated things will work i'm sure but IF/when something were to happen, clog etc., it's less simpler to address. somewhere down the road you may find you wish you would have moved the vanity while your in a precarious position.
For us Bigachitta types, the bowl is too small for the final relief of "Travel Constipation". I push the pedal down on the toilet for the strait shot so it won't lift me off the seat :D and it's a nice courtesy flush for the small space close to the kitchen.
I also added the kithen sink sprayer when i replumbed it, saw it at the RV show figured why not, not sure what its for, but I reckon a redneck biday is what it is used for sometimes. and to pressure wash skid marks
Make sure you have room for your elbows when you reach your nethers. sit and try before you cut. make sure the plumbing is accessable and try to protect from freeze. use pex push-on fittings, expensive per fitting but cheap per job, reusable and easy. pex less freeze resistant.
I'll have to try the push-up thing, thanks cliff.
HTH
your tank
your toilet
your turd
your way
let us know what you decide
Quote from: Jerry Liebler on August 23, 2007, 07:43:57 PM
Chaz,
What are you doing for a tank vent?? Absolutely must have one!! Best is 2" through the roof, usually hidden in the shower wall.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
He could always light a match when he flushes! ;)
A 2" vent thru the roof is the best way. I have seen vents thru the floor & the owners had no complaints. . . maybe their's don't stink? :o (sorry, couldn't resist)
Straight shot = less water required.
The 1/4" per foot slope is the minimum to ensure flow - especially on long runs (like from the house to the street).
I have NEVER experienced the 'water leaving the solids behind' phenomen on steep sloped drains.
I have seen sloppy workmanship cause problems. So be sure you debur the ID of your pipe. & if you are using the lightweight 'foam core', be sure to coat the exposed foam on the end of the pipe with glue to seal it.
The grey water bypass to immediate drain is a great idea! That will simplify tankage!
So Chaz, do what fits your current needs. You can always change it around later after you have used it & then KNOW what your real needs are. My guess is you'll get used to what YOU have & it will be just fine!
RE: I push the pedal down on the toilet for the strait shot so it won't lift me off the seat
Dang NewbeeMC9, I didn't realize you were full of more $#!t than I was. :o Maybe you should see a Dr.
Remind me to park on the other side of the park from you. ;D
jjr,
Increased temp also means increased pressure plus when the bus is moving it develops a negative pressure at the bottom, this vents the tank. Sewer gas coming out the bottom will quickly dissipate in the air and there isn't really much coming out except when the bus is moving and sloshing the waste around.
There is at least one BN who has posted here that his bottom vent has caused no problems or has had no odor. This is the way I'm going, I hate holes in the roof with pipes sticking up all over, looks tacky.
My small slope long pipe has not once clogged or slowed or left solids behind, even when of a reverse sloped parking spot.
My toilet has two pedals, one adds as much water as you want simply by pushing on it and holding, the other flushes.
Quote from: kyle4501 on August 24, 2007, 10:08:31 AM
RE: I push the pedal down on the toilet for the strait shot so it won't lift me off the seat
Dang NewbeeMC9, I didn't realize you were full of more $#!t than I was. :o Maybe you should see a Dr.
Remind me to park on the other side of the park from you. ;D
I'm only fuller right before i go, id rather it vent thru the roof than my teeth!!! ;D:D :P I guess I have too park on the other side regardless since i don't have an airstream. :o anyway your nose in the air is gonna catch the roof ventings anyway. :D ;)
couldn't resist. :D
Quote from: Dallas on August 24, 2007, 08:21:03 AM
Quote from: Jerry Liebler on August 23, 2007, 07:43:57 PM
Chaz,
What are you doing for a tank vent?? Absolutely must have one!! Best is 2" through the roof, usually hidden in the shower wall.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
He could always light a match when he flushes! ;)
:D ;D new roof raise technique. :D
Chaz, sounds like you are about to get your sh*t together. LOL
Richard
I was going to post a picture of my toilet and tank set up with the tank in the middle of the bus and the toilet connected with two 90 degree turns, but Ron's setup (Prevost82) is just about the same thing. It does work! Good Luck, TomC
There is at least one BN who has posted here that his bottom vent has caused no problems or has had no odor. This is the way I'm going, I hate holes in the roof with pipes sticking up all over, looks tacky.
I would rather hear from the people that have camped next to him, that it causes no problems ;D
Now if you want to see "Tacky" I'll show you my saudi roof lit up with rope lite!
Quote from: jjrbus on August 24, 2007, 04:50:35 PM
There is at least one BN who has posted here that his bottom vent has caused no problems or has had no odor. This is the way I'm going, I hate holes in the roof with pipes sticking up all over, looks tacky.
I would rather hear from the people that have camped next to him, that it causes no problems ;D
Now if you want to see "Tacky" I'll show you my saudi roof lit up with rope lite!
Jim, I told ya,
Put some of those chasing Christmas lights up there
I'm saving them for the CB antennas!!
1:00am.
Stick a fork in my butt and flip me over........... I'm done!! (for the night)
Tomorrow I will hopefully continue on with my plan for the septic system. As near as I can tell from you guys, it could work. But as I said, if it doesn't, I'll just weld the holes back in and go north.
I got a bunch done today on my electrical system also. I, personally, think it looks pretty good! But that doesn't mean it will work. ;) ;) ;) But it wouldn't be for lack of effort on Jerry Lieber's part!!!! He is a helluva guy. I'd be lost without his expertise. He has helped me every step of the way!!!!
When all this is done- and if it works- I'll shoot some pix and post them.
Another day, another disposal system,
Chaz
(ya bunch of freekin comedians!!! :D :D :D)
I believe that the technical reason for an upwards sloping sewer vent is that methane gas, which is explosive, builds up in the tank as a byproduct of decomposition. Methane gas is lighter than air and escapes through the roof vent. Any part of the vent that slopes downward will trap methane gas as it tries to escape and a vent through the floor would trap a whole tank full of methane gas.
Also, that trapped gas will cause a very slight pressure increase in the tank. Just enough to give you a nose full when you flush.
Ross
jjr,
You got me there, rope lights are even more tacky than roof vents, or maybe rope lights on roof vents!!
Ross,
You are probably correct when parked but underway there is neg pressure to empty the vent and even a slight breeze will do the job even when parked.
Microbes seem to prevent methane formation. A home septic tank has no vent and my personal experience is that the septic tank has absolutely no odor when the top is opened.
I wish the guy who has the bottom vent would post again but I don't remember who it was.
OK, amazingly for me, I found the post. It is from Ace on 30 May '07 and the part about the vent is quoted here;
"Bottom line is, I get no smell returned back thru the toilet. My vent is on the opposite side of the toilet inlet of the black tank and it goes DOWN thru the bay floor where as most vents go upward! ONLY smell I get once in a blue moon is when I forget to run water in the shower when it is parked for long periods of time. The "P" trap goes dry and allows an odor thru the shower drain but as soon as I run the water, it's gone gone gone! Remember, I have ONE tank for both gray and black!"
upward sloping vent is in case water gets in from the top, it will not sit there and grow things, or worse, plug it up. everything should be down hill toward the tank.
!!!!!!!UPDATE!!!!!!!!
OK, since we were on the road this weekend with my new "plumbing", I had to see if the theory of it "lifting me off the seat" was in fact a truth................................. Nope! I'm happy to report. I had to bribe Linda into going back there and doing the research for me while I was driving down the road and it all worked well and no smell.
Again, what I did was drop a 1 1/2 tube down thru the floor so you can see about a half inch under the bus on one side of the tank and a 2" tube on the other side of the tank with a 45* angle under the floor, facing backward, to try and get a "suck" out of it.
I will need to get someone to drive my bus while I try some other experiments on it while driving down the road (IE. using an incense stick or even a cigarette to see if it will suck the smoke down, etc.). Linda won't "man the helm" while I do my experimentations.
But for now, it looks like it's going to work.
When I get caught up, I'll shoot some pix of my latest adventures (read- experiments) IN my bus! ;)
Smellin good in the neighborhood,
Chaz
P.S. Are all, shall we say "turd transfer tubes" the same?? Or are there better ones for dumping your tank into dump stations??
I have my tanks vented through the bottom of the bus ... I've never had any smell in the campsite.
Ron