BCM Community

Hi all,

I'm looking for a source to replace my radiators. Cors or complete

89  102C3, 8V92T

Thanks in advance
Nick-

Nick;

Call sierra tech inc in tulsa ok at 800-733-9797 ask for lewis. see what they can do for you.

Don

From a post on the RTS-bus-nuts group:


Have 8 rts radiators for a turbo 8v92 diesel or can be adapted to fit.
weight is over 250lbs copper core on radiator and aluminum on cooler
side, no day tank, also have right angle drive gear box for fan. Will
sell for price of the copper.  ea F.O.B. in San Antonio, Texas.
dudleedorite@hotmail.com


Took the price out Chris
Nick-

Hi Nick, give these folks a try.....http://www.dieselradiator.com/   and
these guys too ...http://www4.modine.com/v2portal/modine.portal?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=modineMarketsDefault&a_webc_url=modine_com/markets/truck/level_3_content_037.htm
I'll ask around at work tomorrow for some more contacts.
Sammy  8)

Don, Chris, & Sammy,

Thanks for the leads..  I'll start calling tomorrow.

Nick-

Chris,

Since you are in San Antonio, are radiators from VIA buses? 

David

Hi Nick: How is the Jake working, I bought my 8v-92 radiators from Diesel Radiator Co. in Melrose Park Illinois, This was back in 01, the item # was 6K-1-5 and at that time they where 1594 dollars for the pair, and shipping was 88.00 dollars.  Hope that this will help. Bill

Nick,

At one time, Detroit Radiator was the source to MCI.  They may still be.

I bought a pair of "102" radiators from them for about $1900. in 2004.  They were very accomodating.  I called on a Tuesday, they built them, and I picked them up on Saturday.

Ed Roelle
Flint, MI

Nick: I forgot to give you a phone, I don't know if it is still good.  Diesel Radiator 800-221-0240. Bill.

You Guy's are Awsome!

Thanks for all the responces..  I'll be very busy making phone calls tomorrow, thats for sure!

Bill, The jakes are still missing one selonoid until I get back to Mifflin P.A. in about a week. [weather permiting]

Nick-

Nick,

A couple more sources for radiators....

http://www.radiatorworks.com/  = Radiator Works @ 877-723-9675

http://www.radiatorcores.com/  = General Radiator Industries @ 800-336-2444

Good luck, :)
Darrin

The radiators in my post are not mine, and I don't know the guy who posted the message, just passing along the info.  Contact the person at the email provided.  This was just posted a few days ago to our group, so the info should still be good.  Good luck.

Hi Guy's,

It looks like Rd Roelle's lead turned out to be the most reasonable.

Detroit Radiator.. Thirteen and change is the delivered price for both corr's and bolts and gaskets too.

Good to 500 hp 7" thick corr.

Don, Lewis doesn't work at Sierra anymore.

Thanks all for your help!
Nick-

Hi Guy's,

My radiator core's arrived yesterday from Detroit Radiator. Boy, are they pretty copper finish...

I picked up an extra set of cans and bars from Bruce Knee and cleaned and painted them. Now, I plan on building them up in the shop

before I take out my old rads from the bus. This way I can do a swap when they are done.

Question..  Can I paint the new cores?  If so, what kind of paint?  and should I add silicone to the new gaskets that came with the nut and bolt kit?

Thanks in advance.
Nick-

Nick,

My info was that a "light"coat of FLAT BLACK would enhance the radiation of heat by an appreciable(?) margine that made it well worth doing.  Gloss, semi-gloss and other colors impeded the flow of heat and served as mils insulators.  I do't think heat radiation is the only concern or motivation to apply paint.  The corrosion angle comes into play....especially since you mentioned Pa.   I was raised there.

All those pretty silvery alu. condensors should be flat black, I guess.

2 cents from long ago.

John

Quote from: JohnEd on August 23, 2007, 07:23:45 PM
Nick,

My info was that a "light"coat of FLAT BLACK would enhance the radiation of heat by an appreciable(?) margine that made it well worth doing.  Gloss, semi-gloss and other colors impeded the flow of heat and served as mils insulators.  I do't think heat radiation is the only concern or motivation to apply paint.  The corrosion angle comes into play....especially since you mentioned Pa.   I was raised there.

All those pretty silvery alu. condensors should be flat black, I guess.

2 cents from long ago.

John

Thanks John..
Yea, I live 4 miles from the ocean here in Jersey. lots of salt....It's one of the reasons I keep the bus in it's house!
Nick-

Nick,  Eastwood Co. has some paint that is advertised as radiator paint.  They claim it is very thin so it wont insulate the radiator. Pricey at $10-$11 per pray can.

Ed

Hi folks,

I just completed building up both radiator core's into radiators. All together, 144 bolts, about 12 ft. of gasket material, liquid gasket coating,

and 8 hours today. last week I spent 6 hours wire wheeling all the rust off the top & bottom cans and the side supports. Then the next day

I painted the cans and supports with rustolium. Now, for the last leg of the project, pulling my radiators out of my bus to complete the swap.

I'm going to try and get it done this week.  Maybe I can get away with only draining the radiators and not the whole engine??

Any advice on draining the rads down and refilling them would be appreciated!

Ed & John, thanks for the flat paint tips on the core's...

Thanks
Nick-

I would just drain the rad's Nick .... dump the coolent into a CLEAN bucket and reuse. Use a test strip after your first run.
Ron

Quote from: prevost82 on August 26, 2007, 02:56:39 PM
I would just drain the rad's Nick .... dump the coolent into a CLEAN bucket and reuse. Use a test strip after your first run.
Ron

Thanks Ron..
Sounds like a plan.
Nick-

When I just had my heads replaced $$$$ they drained the system into a pan then poured it into a barrel. When putting it back in they used a sump pump in the barrel to put it all back in. The sump may not have enough power to pump up 6 feet so they put the barrel on a roll around bench first. The sump picked up all but 1/2 gal maybe which was poured into a i gal jug and poured into the rad. They did close the line going to/from the front heater core so that doesn't have to be drained/replaced. Good time to test the balance in your coolant also.

Don & Sheila

Thanks Don.

Here is a pic of the rads filled with water while I test them for a couple days.

Should I preasureize them? if so, how many lbs?

Thanks Nick-

I don't know if you *should* pressurize them, but if you do ..

Don't exceed 7-10 psi as the max pressure in most of these older systems is 3 - 7 psi.

That is great radiator to cram into small space....looking good. Did they quote how many BTU it can handle?

About pressurize radiator before install in bus....yes by all mean. Pressurize air test at whatever your radiator builder said of psi. Coolant will leak quicker than plain water. If you fill with new coolant to pressure test...it may show that your gasket holding well due to slippery fluid.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry

Quote from: Sojourner on August 27, 2007, 10:11:18 AM
That is great radiator to cram into small space....looking good. Did they quote how many BTU it can handle?

About pressurize radiator before install in bus....yes by all mean. Pressurize air test at whatever your radiator builder said of psi. Coolant will leak quicker than plain water. If you fill with new coolant to pressure test...it may show that your gasket holding well due to slippery fluid.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry

Hi Jerry,

No, no quote on btu's from the builder. Just the biggest they can cram in an mci.

The core is 7" thick on each.

The more I look at my old radiators, the more I'm thinking that they were not so bad. just rust around the frame
that is not part of the rad. There is a row or two that have fins flakeing off but, thats it.

Nick-

Nick,

Rad repair shops have a little pump and pressure gauge that fits the rad inlet.  They pump it with "air" and watch the pressure gauge for an hour.  Air leaks out pretty fast and shows a leak in an hour.  They alos use that device to verify how many pounds your cap is holding as low pressure can allow boiling and coolant loss and (dread) overheating.  I fear I am talking down to you and I apologize.

Thanks for your most informative posts.

John

Maybe vacuum test would be better and Nick for sure has the equipment to do that! LOL
Richard

Hi Guy's,

I have had the radiators on a preasure test now for a week and holding 5 psi. [A OK]  Plumbers plugs do wonders!

This past week we were too busy to tackle the swap. I'm hopeing to "get r done" this week, before a trip to Livingston N.J.

on the comming weekend to visit some relitives. Then the following weekend to Maryland, then off to Morrehead North Carolina

Oct 5th for the Eastern area Converted Coaches Rally. Fall should be a busy traveling time in the bus....

I'll send some pics of the rads when I get them installed.
Nick-

Nick,

For the record book I know you are assemblein:

What is the temp of the water going in and out after a hard pull. 

Exhaust back pressure should be less than 3.6 psi. according to DD.   Did you ever measure that and how did you do it? 

Does your turbo make 18 to 21 psi. manifold?  8V92 DDEC III, right?

Thanks Nick, they look awsome and HUGE.  I think you will only be able to overheat those with an open flame.

John

Quote from: JohnEd on September 06, 2007, 12:27:58 PM
Nick,

For the record book I know you are assemblein:

What is the temp of the water going in and out after a hard pull. 

Exhaust back pressure should be less than 3.6 psi. according to DD.   Did you ever measure that and how did you do it? 

Does your turbo make 18 to 21 psi. manifold?  8V92 DDEC III, right?

Thanks Nick, they look awsome and HUGE.  I think you will only be able to overheat those with an open flame.

John

Hi John,

I never got a chance to install the rads yet. I forgot that one of my mechanics had a marlin trip planned this week in SanDiago.
So, needless to say.. I'm on the street this week. "no extra time for the rads swap"
As far as the hard pull test, I never proformed one.  Turbo PSI??? I can hear the turbo going through tunnels.*%@#....
As far as power... The bus might pull a wheelie if my foot was able to push further then the stop bolt...Lol When the turbo kicks in,
I can feel the power ban almost like a 2 stroke dirt bike...  "I said Almost"
I now have an appointment with Kieth Crawford on the 18th to replace the bad selonoid in my Jakes and to install the trans lock-up
selonoid that I obtained from Brian Deihl. I'm hopeing to have the rads in by then..  After that, off to MCI in A.C to get my $99 oil change
before the coupon runs out on Sept 30th.

Nick-

Update,

The rads are now installed. And not such an easy job either.  Getting the top brackets unbolted and reinstalled was a challenge to say the least.

After replacing some hoses and tank lines, it was an 8 hour job with the three of us non stop. The good news is that the new rads were dropping

the coolant temps 70 degs. from 190 going in at the top, and 120 comming out the bottom. I'm happy!  Allthough it was only 80 deg. out today,

I still climbed some good hills with the otr air on at 70 mph and the hottest the gauge went was 180. After removing the old rads, I was able to

see just how clogged they were..

Nick-

Nick,

And happy you deserve to be.  Sounds like a home-run to me....70 degree drop.  That is a great point of reference as if the engine is adding 70 degrees you must be able to drop that amt to achieve a stable condition.  Is my logic correct here?  So many have heat problems with the 92 and they seem to flounder.  If it is a rule of thumb that the rad drop must equal the engine raise and a 8V92 raises the temp 70 degrees.  There is something wrong with this logic as if you went into a 100 degree ambient then the engine outlet would be 210.  I guess the answer is that due to your inlet temp being 120 your thermostat is not wide open and hte thermostat will regulate the output to 180 till you go into an overheat problem.  I am pretty sure you are through fighting a heat problem, at any rate.

Congradulations again,

John