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Attached is a pic of my radiator from my Eagle. It is rather coated in oil from the previous engine issues. We had a rebuild done and all is nice and dry in the engine compartment. However I am thinking the coating of oil is causing my temps to be somewhat elevated. Coming from Kentucky to Ohio on some long steep grades, I slowly hit 200 and backed off the throttle to return to 185-190. If you look at the pic behund the shroud, you will see the coating. Question is I am thinking of pulling the radiator and cleaning it as I cannot get engine degreaser, etc to strip the film of oil off the radiator. Unless soomeone knows of a good product. Also, any easy way to remove the model 15 radiator? Looks like its bolted to the bottom and that's it. Any input appreciated. Thanks

If you have a Costco nearby, buy Oileater-best degreaser I've ever used.  Spray on full strength and hose off-don't high pressure wash-can bend the fins.  And yes it can prevent good heat transfer.  Good Luck, TomC

Well, I was rinsing the radiator with a jet stream from a garden hose and I must have popped a hole in the radiator somehow. Anyways, I drained the coolant and will remove the radiator in the next few days. It has around 550K miles on it so I am due for a replacement from the looks of it. Any good sources and suggestions for a model 15 radiator and what to expect to pay for a new one?

If the core is shot, but can reuse the tanks, the new core could be around $1500.  Good Luck, TomC

Here a 2 links for radiator/core replacements:

http://www.dieselradiator.com/index.html

http://www.radiatorcores.com/

Not sure of their prices?  :-\

Good luck,
Darrin

Jefferson Truck and Bus in Oklahoma City

405-272-0213

Silver Eagle Manufacturing in Brownsville TX

956-832-0606

Have the meaurements when you call.  There are 4 sizes depending on the engine.

What engine do you have?

David

Goodson Bus also sells Eagle radiators:

http://www.goodsonbussales.com/radiator.htm

Good luck,
Darrin

 I called Norris at Jefferson and mine is 60" x 38.5" from tank to tank, and it was around $2150 + shipping. Plus tax I assume. Took it locally and a new core and gaskets, no tanks was around $3K. All I can say is I may clean up the grime on the one side and it may perform for my needs for a while. I'll give that a shot and see how it works. Any idea on the loss of efficiency when 80% of the inside of the radiator is coated with sludge and grime? If I can clean it up real good, may be the trick. Any thoughts?

Will the local shop just dip it and clean it for you? That should be relatively inexpensive and would at least get all the grease and grime off.
Richard

Quote from: homermandy on July 11, 2007, 12:53:03 PM
I called Norris at Jefferson and mine is 60" x 38.5" from tank to tank, and it was around $2150 + shipping. Plus tax I assume. Took it locally and a new core and gaskets, no tanks was around $3K. All I can say is I may clean up the grime on the one side and it may perform for my needs for a while. I'll give that a shot and see how it works. Any idea on the loss of efficiency when 80% of the inside of the radiator is coated with sludge and grime? If I can clean it up real good, may be the trick. Any thoughts?

Quote from: homermandy on July 11, 2007, 12:53:03 PM
I called Norris at Jefferson and mine is 60" x 38.5" from tank to tank, and it was around $2150 + shipping. Plus tax

You have the biggest one.  You must have an 8v92.  You should be able to take it to a shop and have it cleaned and patch the tube you penetrated.  However, it concerns me that you "popped a hole in it" somewhere.  If it did that with just water you may have a pretty bad core.  If you hit with a nozzle or tool then it is just an "oops".

While you have it out I highly recommend you read the thread "radiator trivia" from last year.  It was started by busboy but ended up with a bunch of threads about my radiator fan on my Eagle 10.

http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=1464.0

Anyway this may be the time to look at your fan setup and get all this done at one time.  I removed my radiator 3 times before I finally put this overheating problem to rest.   The $500+ I spent on the fan I installed was the best money I ever spent on my coach.  If you research that post I highly recommend a phone call to Dan Goodson to discuss Eagle cooling issues.  Goodson's link is farther up the threads in this post.

David

Homermandy, You may want to put something on those lines to keep them from rubbing together or tie them together. If they move and rub they will wear through.  Tom Y

I cleaned the grime off last night and it looks pretty good. There are fins missing in a few areas, one about 6in x 6in. I don't believe I put a hole in it. I filled both tanks up and got no leaks from the core, so I assume it is fine. I have a 6v92TA. Will the missing fins cause much of an issue? I have all the fins on the other side. I'll probably put her back in, fill her up, and see if the grime removal works. Thanks

Don't think the missing fins will matter much.  Yeh-go ahead and try it!  Good Luck, TomC

While you have it off take it to a radiator shop and have it rodded and cleaned.   They will pull the tanks and replace the gaskets.  I had mine done in San Antonio TX and it was about $200.  You will then know exactly the condition of your core.   

When I had mine done it was 5% blocked and in like new condition.   After cleaning my overheating problem continued just as before cleaning.  However, you have the large core.  Mine is the smaller one.
I haven't seen any 6v92 Eagles with the big radiator, but since it is a 91 and the earlier models were prone to heating problems many of the later eagles may have come standard with the larger radiator even with the smaller mill.

After I pulled mine the 3rd time in 3 years and installed my new fan, I junked the wimpy OEM plastic shroud and rebuilt fan shroud of metal and completely boxed in the fan area and sealed the back of the radiator to it.  No more air leaks.    If your shroud was like mine it attached to the radiator and slipped over the fan during radiator installation.  This configuration made it extremely difficult to install the radiator and center the fan in the shroud hole.  I engineered my shroud and bolted it up  to the coach with a hole in the upper corner to poke the radiator hose connecter through for hose attachment.   This arrangement allowed me to center the fan in the shroud before the radiator was installed.

When installing the radiator I had just enough penetration of the 2.5" fitting to slip the hose on and tighten the clamp, much easier than the OEM installation. 

Consider all this before you put this beast back on, so you only do it once.

David

homermandy, i just opened a new thread on hydraulic fan lines for my 91 Eagle 15.  since you have one, can you tell me how your lines are hooked up?

also, i've dealt with Noriis and can vouch for his service.  also, there was a 90 eagle for sale on ebay last week for $10K.  it didn't sell but the owner told me he would part it out.  give him a call, just search on ebay for eagle bus.

Here is a link to my fan installation pictures.


http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=4808.msg44504#msg44504

David

Update: After cleaning all the grime on the engine side of the radiator, I reinstalled the radiator and took her for a spin. Hit some modest grades and the temp never got over 175. Before it would be about 10-15 degrees more. Outside ambient was around 90. Happy with that for now. The radiator is the large one so it definately helps the cooling. I would suggest to anyone who has oil and grime buildup on the inside of the radiator to remove the radiator and thoroughly clean the grime, etc. In my case it was the previous owner running the engine with a major leak(thus my rebuild) which caused the grime. I actually had to use a shovel in the radiator bay to scoop about 1 inch of oil/grime out of the bay. So I will put off the radiator purchase for a long while hopefully. Thanks for the input.

Great deal! Glad to hear of a cheap positive out come! I knew we was good for something, even if it was nothing! LOL!

can you see your hydraulic hoses and can you tell me if they are crossed or parallel from the thermocouple to the rear area where they connect?  i just want to make sure as long as i have to get back in there to tighten mine up today.

on my rig, the thermocouple is on driver's side just below fill tank and to the right of the hydrualic oil site glass.  two  3/4" lines run back to a manifold of sorts where i have a leak.

glad your engine is running about the same as mine.  i guess that should indicate mine is correctly connected also.  but i would rather be sure. 
thanks.  also, let me know if you get up North.

Tom,
I just cheacked the hoses. From the thermocouple, mine are crossed to the fan. Looking from the rear to the fan, they criss-cross to the fan. Left on thermocouple to right on fan, etc. Hope this helps?

did help.  i checked mine and they are the same.  last thing i wanna do is take the floor apart, check the hoses and alternator on the rear of the engine, then close it all back up without correcting a problem or potential gremlin feeder.

thanks for letting me know. :)