Can anyone give a reason why not to close off the louvered door vents on a GM (I am assuming at least the 4106 and later might have them)? I noticed a while back that it is a straight shot to the outside. As I was driving down the road I stuck a piece of notebook paper over it an there was enough suction to hold it there. With that much air moving through the door, it is no wonder the bus is so hard to cool while driving. Not to mention the small bugs that could possibly get in while parked.
Laryn,
I had the same problem on my 4103, and believe me, it got pretty darn cold driving in the winter.
I removed the inner panel and covered the louvers with aluminum tape and then filled the door with chunks of styrofom insulation and filled around that with spray foam. (It was a good place to put all those little pieces that get trimmed off).
It's now MUCH warmer and the door doesn't sound nearly as tinny as it use to.
Dallas
I did almost exactly what Dallas did. I used duct tape, my scrap insulation pieces and a can of spray foam. It completely eliminated the drafts in winter driving, my copilot is happy about that. And with the new ductless split 4 of us in the bus stayed cool (72) on a recent 300 mile drive in 95 outside temperatures. I'm able to run the ductless split off of the inverter & coach alternator while driving.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
Laryn, on my 4107, the inner door panels had been replaced with a sheet of steel - looks like the original panel was used to place the screw holes. Previous owner had it covered in carpet (as he did the rest of the coach. We've stripped the carpet (probably reducing the coach weight), and I suspect the panel would look decent either painted or powder-coated.
However, since my goal is to restore the coach to original (as close as practical, forward of the white line), I've been trying to get the original louvered panels to replace the steel. I've located the panels from a supplier, but for some reason he won't take my parts requests or return my calls - (and I really do pay with real, US money - I bought some parts when I was in his part of the country and brought them back in my suitcase - but the rest of the stuff I want is either too large or heavy for a repeat).
I'm going for interior appearance, so if I ever do get the original panels, I may put a sheet of plastic and/or insulation inside the door as an air barrier.
Now, if someone here knew that the doors and parts were identical between my 4107 and your ?, I could suggest we swap?
Arthur
Runcutter,
You are welcome to my inner door panel. It's a bit less than pristine but it is original. Where are you, I'm in south central Kentucky.
Regards
Jerry 4107 1120
Jerry, that'd be great. I'm in the Dallas area. If you're willing, let me know how to pay you for packing, shipping, etc.
By the way, just to keep serial numbers in whole increments - we're 1180.
Arthur
Closed off all the vents, and added some sticky foam to the backside of the panels. I expect to notice a big difference the next trip out. One added bonus that was mentioned by Dallas; the door now shuts with a nice solid thump, instead of sounding like it's about to rattle itself apart.
Arthur, I am lucky that the PO left the front untouched. I like the retro look also.
Laryn