I am ready to install a floating floor in the bus. I have installed the same quality laminate in the house this week. Looks great and was simple to install. 30 year warranty ;) ;) ;)
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Question is this: I have a good solid OEM floor with original flooring still in place. I plan on covering the flooring with plywood and then laying the laminate on top of the plywood (with moisture barrier of course).
3/4 inch or 1/2 inch for the subfloor?
Your thoughts?
Go!!!!!
Grant
If you have a "good solid OEM floor" why do you need underlay plywood and what is the purpose of the moisture barrier?
Good questions, The oem floor may be enough? I was hoping for just a bit more noise abatement. I may be fine with the OEM floor. As far as the barrier goes, the manufacture suggests the barrier to help prevent any water that may come from underneath the flooring be prevented from entering the interlocking joints. I also have the type of laminate floor that already has the padding adhered to the laminate.
Thanks for the input!
Grant
I assume that you don't have any pets.
There was a discussion about the effects of urine in the cracks between the boards.
It didn't hurt the boards, just the occupants noses. The man that posted this info said he had to tear out the flooring to get rid of the smell.
You also might want to put in the moisture barrier to keep the smell for permeating the sub floor.
Ed
You may want to put down felt paper down too. It helps keep down the squeeks.
We have pets, they just have to stay home! We take the kids and hopefully they will not have the same issues! ;D
Felt might be a good idea, I assume it would also help flatten out the uneven spots.
Thanks
Grant
The felt isn't that thick so it might not flatten much....
But it definitely makes a difference keeping the new floor from making noise when rubbing against the sub-floor. It's pretty much standard to put down felt paper when installing flooring in a house.
I used interlocking Armstrong flooring and it has been fine. Nothing separated, no problems.
I would go easy on the "moisture barrier" on the floor. You will have water incursion..however small amount, and you want it to dry. I ain't just pets that can stink up a coach. Water is more likely to get inside from above the floor than below the floor.
You may find that the manufacturer recommends gluing the joints if used in bath or kitchen areas. Mine did and I glued all the joints. Used Pergo underlayment. This was the green pad. It does not squeek, feels solid as in a home.
I also have 1/4" exterior plywood on the OEM floor for the purpose of getting above the seat rails. I used the seat rails to fasten some items which also worked well.
May I suggest (you've probably already done this) that you remove the vinyl flooring before you install plywood underlayment. That stuff has its own olfactory "personality."
Also keep in mind that nothing should be bolted thru the laminate flooring that mutes its expansion...a small hole saw and washers will solve that problem. I ran into this issue with a small RV Oak kitchen table. Had to be bolted to the floor.
Be sure that the floor is flat, and leave an expansion gap of 1/8" or so. The width of a bus almost eliminates expansion widthwise....mine butts up to carpet on both ends so expansion isn't an issue on lengthwise plane either.
The bonded pad on the panels should be more than enough padding. Too much and it'll feel mushy (North Carolina term for not hard enough). ;)
Best, JR
Grant ... I install lam flooring in the bus and put 1/4" cork under it. Works well for sound and insulation.
Ron
The felt is also useful for 'shimming up' the floor so that the seat rails aren't 'above grade' and nice and flush before final layers.