Allright clan, need some advice. My Model 10 has a 6v92 that supposedly had the top end rebuilt( whatever that means to THEM) it sat for 4 years before I got it. I put on new turbo,injectors,jake.It needs the rack run. It leaked on all the seals until I started running straight 40wt oil and seal reconditioner, that helped.Only have about 200 miles on it since the install. The problem is oil coming out the exhaust! Is it because of too many start and idle, not enough get out and run? The smoke will finally start clearing after 2 very smoke filled miles.Or is it blow by pass the rings? Or should I just drive abunch of miles and keep changing oil to get her back in shape? Any and all suggestions are helpful!!!!!!!!
TJ,
1.) Only use API CF2 rated 40 wt engine oil.
http://eolcs.api.org/FindBrandByServiceCategory.asp?ServiceCategory=CF-2 (http://eolcs.api.org/FindBrandByServiceCategory.asp?ServiceCategory=CF-2)
2.) Down load and read a copy of Detroit Diesel's 7se270, Lubricating Oil, Fuel, and Filters Requirements
http://www.detroitdiesel.com/support/on-highway/manuals/Lubricants_Fuels_Coolants/index.asp (http://www.detroitdiesel.com/support/on-highway/manuals/Lubricants_Fuels_Coolants/index.asp)
3.) The oil coming out the exhaust is probably contaminated fuel from the air boxes. If the engine idles and never warms up, the fuel doesn't vaporize of burn completely. Run the engine, run it hard and follow the tune up and break in specifications in your manual.
4.) If you don't know how to run the rack, find someone who does. It isn't difficult but does take a certain knack. If the injectors aren't set right, you could have a lot of unburnt fuel going into the exhaust. Unburnt fuel washing down the rigs and cylinders isn't good. It can cause scoring and spalling leading to premature engine failure. It also prevents the engine from breaking in.
5.) Your oil consumption is most likely caused by the engine not being broken in.
6.) DON'T IDLE!
7.) Good Luck!
8.) Run the Pi** out of it. Detroits don't like to sit or dawdle. They like to feel useful and powerful. Make it work and it will work it's heart out for you.
9.) Did I mention, DON'T IDLE?
10.) Have fun and use your bus.
I hope that helps.
Dallas
GO BUSSING!
Where in TX are you Jack?
I am in Taylor and could look at it for you. Sounds like it needs to be driven a few hundred miles and then see what it does.
Call if you like. 512-695-5849
Justin
Take it out for a good run, some of it might be from residue in the airbox from the engine work you had performed.
Make sure the engine is in the "no fuel" position, shut off batterys too, before you begin the next suggestions.
Take a look at the blower rotors, see if they are wet with oil.
Pull the turbo and adapter plate on top of blower to look at the inside of blower end plates and the outside of the rotors.Might have bad blower seals.
You can check the rings if you open up the air box inspection plates.
You will need to manually "bar" over the engine - slowly, to get pistons in proper position to inspect the rings.Get a shop manual if you don't already have one.
Do the basic "bounce "test to them - push on them carefully, see if they are stuck in the piston lands
(ring groove in piston).
I'd also do a compression test and cylinder leakdown test too - you'll need special tools for these tests.
Start with this, more tests you can do later, if needed - air box pressure, crankcase pressure,etc.
Good luck with your troubleshooting.
Sammy 8)
Well T. J. since it has had alot of recent work, I will guess it has a big fat set of injectors and will pull stumps. If thats the case, you want to baby it so it lasts a long time. Use a block heater, never let it idle, wait to run it wide open until its warmed up. One good pull like the Grapevine is not enough to clean it up, but two long pulls should help. My 92 loaded up short hopping around LA last winter and it didn't clean up good until Medford Ore. comming home.