Hello all,
I would like to get your input and suggestions.
I am thinking of getting a 1 inch air impact wrench so that I can change my shocks and check my bearing etc, all involving wheel R&R.
I have a manual torque multiplyer, but with age and lazyness, I dread doing it that way.
I have a pancake compressor, but it doesn't have the 17 cfm air capacity required. My question: would it be feasible to use the bus air to power it? If so, where would a guy tap the bus air to do this.
My bus air seems quite good. From sitting for a month with 0 air pressure, we can be aired up and ready to roll in about 6 minutes.
Thinking of an air wrench, since they are less expensive than the new fancy battery models.
Thanks
Seb
I have a really good 3/4 inch that hits 650 LBS and is easier to handle ,, I also run it off my onboard pressure..>>>Dan
Quote from: Utahclaimjumper on November 08, 2025, 03:41:01 PM
I have a really good 3/4 inch that hits 650 LBS and is easier to handle ,, I also run it off my onboard pressure..>>>Dan
Hmmm, tell me more. Brand? Where did you get it and such?
Seb
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=3%2F4%20earthquake%20impact
Quote from: Dave5Cs on November 09, 2025, 12:33:02 PM
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=3%2F4%20earthquake%20impact
Yeah, thinking about that one. Any experience using on BUD wheels would be great to hear.
Thanks
Seb
I have a 3/4 Air Cat it does the job ,I have a IR 1 inch air those are heavy suckers and your bus air won't run one but in short burst you have to have 1/2 air hose to use it
I thought long and hard about buying a 1" air impact for my bus's wheels, but chose to not do so mainly because of air supply limitations. Instead I recently bought Harbor Fright's 3/4" Hercules battery impact wrench that, so far at least, has really impressed me. Last week I took off the deep nuts for one of my rear suspension's 1" U-bolts (they're tightened to far more ft/lbs than wheels' lug nuts), and it hammered off the corroded nuts with absolutely no problem. It seems to be well made, and it's more than adequate for my very occasional needs. Yes, it's more money than an air impact, but it works well so it's a keeper for me. So far, so good!
John
Skip the air. You'll use up the air in a pancake compressor in seconds with a big impact. Get a battery operated 1" impact instead. Milwaukee makes them now that work very well. Personally, I have an Ingersoll Rand battery 1" impact that works great. It uses dual batteries, and the kit I bought came with four batteries. Zoro had a really good price plus I had a 20% coupon so it cost me around $1,100 before tax. I only bought the IR because the Milwaukee version was not out yet. I would buy Milwaukee today. Yes, I have removed lug nuts on my bus with the battery impact.
A compressor and hoses large enough to run a 1" impact will cost as much, or more, as a battery impact from Milwaukee.
I have a pancake compressor, plus I have a couple of larger compressors. I tried to use my pancake compressor with an air operated bottle jack to lift my bus. The tank was empty in under a second, and the compressor could produce enough air to make the jack go up. I had to go get another compressor as I was just going to burn up the pancake compressor. I didn't realize an air operated jack needs that much air.
I have had the Dewalt DCF899 for several years, it was expensive but it kicks a$$.
700 ft-lbs of max torque and 1200 ft-lbs of max breakaway torque.
I was skeptical when I bought it, high torque, cordless impacts being new on the market at that time.
I have not been disappointed, I have yet to find a nut or bolt it won't remove, takes the lug and bud nuts off the MCI without any issue.
I see there is a newer version DCF900, with 1030 ft-lbs of max fastening torque and 1400 ft-lbs of max breakaway torque, but have no experience with it.
I chose the ½ inch drive version to make it more versatile and easy to use around the shop, I almost bought the ¾ drive version, but have not regretted the ½ drive.
A friend of mine has the Harbor Freight Ultra Torque Impact and says it blows away my Dewalt at a much lower price, but I have no personal experience with it.
Peter
Quote from: peterbylt on November 10, 2025, 01:57:58 AM
I have had the Dewalt DCF899 for several years, it was expensive but it kicks a$$.
700 ft-lbs of max torque and 1200 ft-lbs of max breakaway torque.
I was skeptical when I bought it, high torque, cordless impacts being new on the market at that time.
I have not been disappointed, I have yet to find a nut or bolt it won't remove, takes the lug and bud nuts off the MCI without any issue.
I see there is a newer version DCF900, with 1030 ft-lbs of max fastening torque and 1400 ft-lbs of max breakaway torque, but have no experience with it.
I chose the ½ inch drive version to make it more versatile and easy to use around the shop, I almost bought the ¾ drive version, but have not regretted the ½ drive.
A friend of mine has the Harbor Freight Ultra Torque Impact and says it blows away my Dewalt at a much lower price, but I have no personal experience with it.
Peter
Great information. Thanks
Seb
I have a 1" harbor freight impact I have had for years, run it off the rear suspension tank in the engine bay. It will keep up well enough to r&r tires and run the air jack. That's all I need.
I have a couple of friends that carry the Velor 1 inch air impact from Amazon that cost around a 100 bucks they work good not as heavy the H/F 1 inch (40lbs) ,to get full advantage of any air impact you have to meet the air supply and demand a 1/4 inch supply hose won't cut it,lol but with a 1/4 inch supply line you don't break any studs,the cheaper guns require 10 to 15 cfm @ 90 + psi for full advantage the 1000$ plus I/R guns get by on 5 CFM @ 90 lbs,I am not much on the H/F stuff but Lvmci and Van gave me H/F 1/2 drive cordless impact for my birthday and it does good job I use it all the time to twist of 1/2 inch rusted bolts if they don't come loose it will twist those off and is ok with me as long as it is not a bolt I have to drill and tap
Quote from: luvrbus on November 10, 2025, 07:00:41 AM
I have a couple of friends that carry the Velor 1 inch air impact from Amazon that cost around a 100 bucks they work good not as heavy the H/F 1 inch (40lbs) ,to get full advantage of any air impact you have to meet the air supply and demand a 1/4 inch supply hose won't cut it,lol but with a 1/4 inch supply line you don't break any studs,the cheaper guns require 10 to 15 cfm @ 90 + psi for full advantage the 1000$ plus I/R guns get by on 5 CFM @ 90 lbs,I am not much on the H/F stuff but Lvmci and Van gave me H/F 1/2 drive cordless impact for my birthday and it does good job I use it all the time to twist of 1/2 inch rusted bolts if they don't come loose it will twist those off and is ok with me as long as it is not a bolt I have to drill and tap
Hello,
I already have a Ridgid 1/2 drive battery impact wrench that I really like, but it won't handle wheel lug nuts. That's what I'm really trying get a handle on, something, not too expensive that can handle those on the occasions I need it
I'm thinking the HF 1/2 won't handle that? Or?
Seb
Use what you have just buy a cheap 1/2 in drive 2 or3 to1 torque multiplier with a handle ,I have a Proto 2 to 1 that I have used for 50 years I use it a lot instead of going to a bigger gun when using my 1/2 drive I/R gun, a knock off brand shouldn't cost much I seen those before with a 1/2 input and 3/4 output drive ,all my lug sockets are 1 in drive FWIW
Quote from: luvrbus on November 10, 2025, 12:37:52 PM
Use what you have just buy a cheap 1/2 in drive 2 or3 to1 torque multiplier with a handle ,I have a Proto 2 to 1 that I have used for 50 years I use it a lot instead of going to a bigger gun when using my 1/2 drive I/R gun, a knock off brand shouldn't cost much I seen those before with a 1/2 input and 3/4 output drive ,all my lug sockets are 1 in drive FWIW
That's an idea. Sure a lot less expensive.
Thanks
Seb
My go to is a 18 fuel Milwaukee battery 1/2" drive that my son gave me years ago with no battery. He said he didn't know if it worked he was given it from a friend. I finely bought a battery for it and it worked great. :^
Milwaukee is owned by a Chinese outfit I see Milwaukee tools in Lowes with made in China or Mexico, the Ryobi tools in H/D are made by the same company. They may make the H/F guns to, they own the Hoover vacuum cleaner plant in El Paso, I looked at a tool set for my daughter by Milwaukee had China written all over it
Which cordless tools are made in the USA? Easily 95% of cordless tools are imports, and 95% is probably on the low side. I like to buy stuff made in the USA where possible, but I know it really isn't possible with cordless tools.
Quote from: Sebulba on November 10, 2025, 07:56:56 AM
Hello,
I already have a Ridgid 1/2 drive battery impact wrench that I really like, but it won't handle wheel lug nuts. That's what I'm really trying get a handle on, something, not too expensive that can handle those on the occasions I need it
If you can figure a way to try a 1/2" Milwaukee you may be surprised. I've got the high torque DeWalt 1/2' which is a beast but the Milwaukee is better. Milwaukee also has a 3/4" which must literally be dangerous. We had to be careful not to stretch 5/8 Grade 8 bolts with a 1/2" Milwaukee. The cordless units are going to be a lot easier to use - way more expensive but way more convenient too. I've got some pretty good air tools in my shop but I can't remember the last time I dragged any of them out. The cordless stuff is just so damn handy and easy to use.
I still use a lot of air tools with a mix of cordless, I use my I/R 1/2 drive impact with the long anvil all the time i bought new in 1965,cordless tools have their draw back lot of places you cannot use one in tight spaces I have a 3/8 drive cordless rachet it is useless in tight places. Why can't they make 1 battery and charger for all the tools lol I bet I have a dozen of different chargers and batteries from 12v to 48V. I have a Dewalt cordless chain saw I love it runs for ever but when it dies I am always on a ladder cutting limbs. When I renewed the shop insurance, they made me buy a metal cabinet to charge the batteries in with a strip for power with a circuit breaker, I need to put it together before he comes back
Quote from: luvrbus on November 10, 2025, 02:08:59 PM
Milwaukee is owned by a Chinese outfit I see Milwaukee tools in Lowes with made in China or Mexico, the Ryobi tools in H/D are made by the same company. They may make the H/F guns to, they own the Hoover vacuum cleaner plant in El Paso, I looked at a tool set for my daughter by Milwaukee had China written all over it
This is me not caring. If it works it works! And it works well.
Dave ,you are not going to dodge the Chinese made stuff anyways, so many things have American names and are owned by the Chinese, the American engine manufactures are making engines there, I was looking at a RV the Cummins engine was made China, and the Freight Liner chassis said made in America that's the part I don't like. FWIW friends in the business tell me the Dewalt 20v Max XR is best out now made in Tennessee
I have both 3/4 and 1 inch air impacts and 1/2 inch hose to run it but any more I just grab the Milwaukee heavy 1/2 or 3/4 18volt cordless to change all my Semi or rear tractor tires. I hate those heavy air impacts and heavy 1/2 hoses anymore.
Quote from: rancher on November 11, 2025, 09:05:51 PM
I have both 3/4 and 1 inch air impacts and 1/2 inch hose to run it but any more I just grab the Milwaukee heavy 1/2 or 3/4 18volt cordless to change all my Semi or rear tractor tires. I hate those heavy air impacts and heavy 1/2 hoses anymore.
I dislike the hose more than I do the gun,I have never owned one of the newer Milwaukee impact guns but had a older model I never used I wasn't impressed with it and gave it to my son and he still uses it and hasn't any problems with the Milwaukee
I have the m18 3/4 " nut buster and if you use a 12 amp battery in it it will take off anything
Most times I use a 8 amp battery and with that I can remove all 8 tires and reinstall them easily with that battery with power left over
But they are not cheap
Dave
Quote from: sledhead on November 12, 2025, 07:38:36 PM
I have the m18 3/4 " nut buster and if you use a 12 amp battery in it it will take off anything
Most times I use a 8 amp battery and with that I can remove all 8 tires and reinstall them easily with that battery with power left over
But they are not cheap
Dave
Is that this wrench?
https://www.northerntool.com/products/milwaukee-m18-fuel-cordless-high-torque-impact-wrench-with-one-key-and-friction-ring-tool-only-3-4in-drive-1500-ft-lbs-torque-model-2864-20-63588?f=text&gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_source=google_PPC&utm_medium=NT%20DSA%20Feed&utm_campaign=DSA%20Feed&utm_content=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1840109688&gclid=CjwKCAiA_dDIBhB6EiwAvzc1cCXGJLYagKPXaMsi7GgXtBXtLDceihfUz4_yDwiJoAoZx8ow3s2IBxoCHYkQAvD_BwE
Thanks
Sen
I was in my local industrial supply house yesterday replacing a 1-7/8 Wright combo wrench that walked off, they sell only the commercial grade of Milwaukee, Mikita and Dewalt if you want sticker shock for a cordless impact wrench you get there. American made tools like Proto and Wright are crazy in price 1 wrench $270.00, those grade of the 3 brands were bumping close to a $1000.00,the average person don't need that. I don't buy Chinese made sockets, but they are looking better, a set of deep 3/4 drive 12 point sockets by Proto . I use 12 point because most DD have the 12 point on the heads and main bearing. I passed on those for $710.00 for 9 sockets. You are just taking wheels off a 800ft lb gun should be more than adequate, the only place on a bus I ever need the high torque gun is removing the yoke and flanges on the transmission or differential for seal replacement. I don't trust torque the rating they advertise. When we changed Hatts drop box we use the M-18 Milwaukee he owned it didn't make 650 ft lbs the nut came loose, and he had to stop and have retighten, I think it lost torque between the adapter from the 3in 1 in drive socket to the 1/2 in drive on the gun just guessing. If I bought a high torque gun today out of the 3 it would be a Mikita made in America
Quote from: Sebulba on November 12, 2025, 07:59:14 PM
Is that this wrench?
https://www.northerntool.com/products/milwaukee-m18-fuel-cordless-high-torque-impact-wrench-with-one-key-and-friction-ring-tool-only-3-4in-drive-1500-ft-lbs-torque-model-2864-20-63588?f=text&gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_source=google_PPC&utm_medium=NT%20DSA%20Feed&utm_campaign=DSA%20Feed&utm_content=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1840109688&gclid=CjwKCAiA_dDIBhB6EiwAvzc1cCXGJLYagKPXaMsi7GgXtBXtLDceihfUz4_yDwiJoAoZx8ow3s2IBxoCHYkQAvD_BwE
Thanks
Sen
A local truck tire shop here has all his trucks and shop equipped with the Mikita TWUIOGZ 40 V 1in drive impact made just for changing truck tire checks those bad boys out you won't like price,he told me around $1500.00 ea if you could find on Ebay used that would be the way to go they are neat I saw a guy with one in each hand carrying those to the truck, amazing 2320 ft lbs of torque, weighs 25 lbs and runs off a friggn battery
The only Makita 40 volt 1" impact I see is the gwt10z. It costs a bit over $1,000 without battery. $1,500 is probably about what it costs for the kit with battery and charger.
Yes
That is like mine but new
Mine is 4 or 5 years old now and I use it on the coach and other equipment
Just remember it needs at least a 8 amp battery to get all that power and I had a piece of crap m18 chainsaw that didn't last 2 years that came with the 12 amp battery
Dave
I bought a Makita 3/4" impact wrench probably eight years ago. I could not get it to remove the lug nuts on my bus. About four years ago I bought an Ingersoll Rand battery 1" impact. It has no issue removing lug nuts.
I used to carry a torque multiplier. I had a flat tire and it took a good three hours to install the spare with the torque multiplier. Total pain to use. (I have Coachnet, but the tire person they dispatched still hadn't shown up by the time we finished.)
Quote from: belfert on November 16, 2025, 06:00:35 AM
I bought a Makita 3/4" impact wrench probably eight years ago. I could not get it to remove the lug nuts on my bus. About four years ago I bought an Ingersoll Rand battery 1" impact. It has no issue removing lug nuts.
I used to carry a torque multiplier. I had a flat tire and it took a good three hours to install the spare with the torque multiplier. Total pain to use. (I have Coachnet, but the tire person they dispatched still hadn't shown up by the time we finished.)
Those torque multiplier's for changing tire are pits,I have 3 laying the shop people left, they are ok just to break the lugs loose, I have no desire to remove 10 nuts all the way off a stud with one,if that was all you used I can see why it took 3 hours
I recall the torque multiplier is the only thing I had to remove the lug nuts. I had (stil have) a Tireman torque wrench to torque the lug nuts that I used to help install the lug nuts. The torque multiplier bent two of the inner nuts used to secure the inner duals. The spare tire had cracks the size of the Grand Canyon, but we had brought along an unmounted decent tire. We stopped to get that tire mounted, and got new inner nuts.
One thing I think is important. Remove, clean and reinstall all your lugnuts at least once. Some have had a tire issue and wheels have NEVER been removed entire length of ownership. Or, having a trusted place do it and properly retorqued. Old heads won't have issues, but the woes of someone having to remove a wheel out on the road that hasn't been off for years, crops up here occasionally.
That'll give better luck in having a battery impact do the job.
Personally, I have a Hercules Ultra torque impact 3/4" drive, and use it with their 12ah battery. Works fine.
Milwaukee makes some higher torque ones but the price difference and already having a lot of Hercules products. Makes buying theirs a no brainer.
Btw, I also have a 1" IR gun, 1/2" air hose and up to 195 psi if needed. Heavy to use anymore, but good to turn coach upside down for chassis work
I have the Air Cat 3/4 also and its a beast. Make sure get the bigger air inlet because it cuts down the power with smaller inlet connector.
For the shop I bought a Vevor 1 inch impact with case from Amazon. Works real good.
This is my data:
I have a 1 inch IR on a 3/4 hose. I also have the M18 Milwaukee 1/2 drive.
I rarely drag the 1 inch out. IF, and that's an IF, the wheels are torqued to 500 or so, the Milwaukee will remove all ten nuts without changing the battery.
If a gorilla at a tire shop has hammered them on with a 1 inch prolly at 150 psi, the Milwaukee will not remove them.
I used a HF once, and once only, the trigger is on the back of the gun and too easy to grab it when reaching for the gun. Bad things happened, and could have broken my hand.
The torque drops REAL fast if you use any kind of extender, size adaptor, or knuckle. Therefore, I use a 1/2 drive 33MM impact socket for the wheel nuts.
I torque the nuts on reinstall with a torque stick to 450, and finish them at 500 with a torque wrench.