Has anybody used a ge rooftop ac unit? My 3 year old dometic gave up the ghost. Rear one sounds like a line is vibrating aginst something. The front one seems to have lost most of its freon. I'm done with dometic. on the road and trying to decide which brand to buy. Any recommends are help full. Headed for north east pa.
in fla now and its damn hot in here. olebusman
John
I have two Dometic Penguin AC units that are over 30 year old and work perfectly. I had one repaired many years ago and what happened is the copper refrigerant line broke off the compressor. They welded it back recharged it and it works perfectly. I had to put springs from the line to the frame to dampen the vibration so the line didn't break again. I did the spring thing to the other unit and it has never broken down. Certainly a cheaper fix then to replace the whole AC unit.
For those moving toward solar and lithium batteries, efficiency is a major factor and mini-split units are highly efficient and apparently very reliable. Mr Cool is a big name. there are others. The installation is very different than rooftops.
The Coleman is the better roof top out there now but they are limited in supply if you can 15000 btu units.I had good luck from the Dometic Penguin's of the past, the Penguin ll is junk and do not cool I replace my Penguin ll 2 times in 2 years so I replaced it with Coleman in 4 years it never missed a lick lol AZ sucks with no AC
If you decide to go mini splits.. A few things to consider-- Inverter technology a must=no start up surge. I did 3 units. 9,000 btu @ 8amps each. the 3 pull less than 2 roof tops . Quiet= about 40 dp compared to 70 plus on most roof tops.. I have a 45ft coach and 2 will keep cool on 90plus % day. Learn about serr ratings=larger # is better. My first installed in 2012 still running. Have since added 35,000 to home (2 units) 2600 square ft. Just about 1/2 elect bill. took old heat pumps out. All I buy have heat and air.. real good down to 20F(heat) Fwiw Bob
I see where Copeland has a new scroll compressor with a mechanical governor/soft start. No inverter required. I'll be looking into that but it appears to be a really good option.
Jim
The new HVAC we had installed on our home uses a scroll compressor. The decrease in electric is impressive...
Quote from: dtcerrato on June 01, 2022, 05:50:43 AM
The new HVAC we had installed on our home uses a scroll compressor. The decrease in electric is impressive...
Scroll compressors have been around ,you probably have the new digital scroll compressor like I had installed on the house unit a few months ago they are supposed to be the best thing since sliced bread since they don't have any mass flow reductions or return oil .I love mine when it comes on 51 degrees cold air instantly the outside unit is so quite you cannot hear it running lol I called the AC guy out because I thought because the fan was turning so low he wired for 115v .Cut by bill by /2 to bad the roof tops don't have the digital compressor
I think the digital ones are the inverter driven. The new Copeland apparently is purely mechanical but still has the same power reduction as the digital but doesn't need the power conditioned through the inverter. Theoretically that would make it even more efficient.
Jim
Quote from: Jim Blackwood on June 01, 2022, 07:36:30 AM
I think the digital ones are the inverter driven. The new Copeland apparently is purely mechanical but still has the same power reduction as the digital but doesn't need the power conditioned through the inverter. Theoretically that would make it even more efficient.
Jim
Digital are capacitor they both use a modulating system I was told but the Scroll Compressor was the best setup and he sold both
Have always used Coleman's for over 30 years. If you buy one these days, get the heavy duty model. Better coils and components.
I installed the Pioneer mini-split. 115v, 12g btu and (if I recall) 20 seer. I only have the one unit so far in my 45 foot bus. I have not used it hardly at all yet. A person weighed in on the YouTube video that I produced on the installation saying that they are junk (mini-splits in general) because they don't move much air, even on the high air output setting. He also said that if the duct next to the unit in the old AC bay isn't insulated, it will only pick up the heat being produced by the unit and radiate back into the bus eliminating any benefit.
That all being said, I have only heard good about them from actual users on this board. I was thinking about installing one rooftop unit in the middle of the bus and have it only for use when plugged into shore power. I do plan to install an additional mini split in the rear bedroom regardless. I understand them to work quite well.
We live in Florida.
We have both a Pioneer 12K Mini Split in the front and a Coleman 15K rooftop in the rear.
We love the Mini Split, it has been in there over three years works fantastic, very quiet sips electricity, we are able to run it off our newly installed Solar System for a lot of the day. Keeps the entire bus cool, using a box fan in the middle of the bus blowing into the back, the problem arises when it gets into the mid 90's then the mini split can't keep up.
That's why we bought the Coleman Mach 15 Roof top unit, this AC Kicks A$$, will cool the bus off in minutes, holds it's own into the upper 90's and beyond, But there is nothing efficient about this unit, it's loud and consumes lots of electricity, it will never run off the solar system, Generator or shore power only.
Between the two we are very happy with them, usually run them both to cool the bus off then shut down the Coleman and maintain with the Mini Split.
Peter
Have two Coleman s and love them. one 15K and the bedroom one is 12K. Solar will run one but not two with 1500Watt solar system. 7K genny will run both as will the shore power. Lightning hit one two years ago and just replaced the capacitors and it was off and running again. need new covers with the corner cracks after 15 years but probably just FG them because the replacements are in the 250.00 range.
Quote from: Glennman on June 01, 2022, 01:10:47 PM
I installed the Pioneer mini-split. 115v, 12g btu and (if I recall) 20 seer. I only have the one unit so far in my 45 foot bus. I have not used it hardly at all yet. A person weighed in on the YouTube video that I produced on the installation saying that they are junk (mini-splits in general) because they don't move much air, even on the high air output setting. He also said that if the duct next to the unit in the old AC bay isn't insulated, it will only pick up the heat being produced by the unit and radiate back into the bus eliminating any benefit.
That all being said, I have only heard good about them from actual users on this board. I was thinking about installing one rooftop unit in the middle of the bus and have it only for use when plugged into shore power. I do plan to install an additional mini split in the rear bedroom regardless. I understand them to work quite well.
Doesn't move air? I have not run into that, generally never run over low fan speed. High speed moves so much air they can be annoying. Sanyo units.
Apples to Apples it all depends on the area one lives in,I have helped folks remove the mini splits and install roof tops.When the temps reach 120F here and the bus is heat soaked it takes for ever for the 2= 9000 btu splits to cool down a bus where you can even stand to be in it,2 roof tops 30 minutes you are ok,they are power hogs though
Coach Insulation is a big factor also, otherwise it's only an ice cube on your forehead. Was 109 here just recently, add interior climate control management to the list of things that need management or head for a cooler climate ;)
Have two places & love them... Opposite corners of the continent where seasons are invert of each other. IE: Alaska summers & Florida winters = no or hardly a need for air conditioning. :^
@Glen - don't go back! For that matter any busnut who defiles a classic bus by putting those UGLY warts on top is well ...
@Van - Mini splits work more like heat pump in that they draw so little, you can run them far more to keep things cool. The old school units are more brute force so work to cool quicker but at what cost - noise and energy drain at startup and continuous. Not sure one can compare as apples to apples. They seem pretty different except they both provide cool air to busnut
Roof top heat pumps work, the newer ones heat down to the same temps as any mini splits.Apples to apples you are not going to replace a 13 or 15,000 btu roof top with a 9000 btu split and get the same results.The 1 to 3 million coaches are still using the roof tops why ?,can you even buy a 15.000 btu split that will work on a 110 v
Don't know I bought 24,000 btu that runs on 220 and runs three inside units; 6,000, 9,000 and 12,000 over the driver. 220 is easy enough to get.
12K btu is the max I have ever seen on 110v. However, as stated, 220v isn't that hard to get, either with an autotransformer, or OOTB with some of the newer inverters.
Our little 6.5kw Onan has 240 vac at 30A or two 120 vac legs @ 30A each. It can be wired for straight 120 vac @ 60A but we like having the 240 vac resource for running the water well, welder, etc. If needed.
Quote from: Lee Bradley on June 03, 2022, 08:50:12 AM
Don't know I bought 24,000 btu that runs on 220 and runs three inside units; 6,000, 9,000 and 12,000 over the driver. 220 is easy enough to get.
Which unit did you get?
My Pioneer is 12K btu's. I'm not afraid of it at all. If I was to add one roof top air, it would only be to get a quick cool down, then let the mini split maintain it. Maybe all that isn't necessary anyway. If I add a 9K unit in the back, that might just take care of it.
Quote from: windtrader on June 02, 2022, 08:47:03 PM
@Glen - don't go back! For that matter any busnut who defiles a classic bus by putting those UGLY warts on top is well ...
Don -
You're beginning to sound like Ralph Baker!
RJ
Quote from: freds on June 03, 2022, 12:09:45 PM
Which unit did you get?
Like most of the equipment I bought; the manufacture immediately got out of the market. Honda RV generator, Sanyo mini-split.
I've been looking for higher capacity 110v compressors and it's been hard to find anything over 12k, even in the more efficient designs. It seems like once you pass that line in the sand everyone immediately switches over to 220 whether the amperage draw justifies it or not. And amperage draw is something I've been watching. As the compressors get more efficient the draw goes down and now we seem to be seeing some 1 ton compressors drawing about 9 amps with little or no start up surge. There seems to be nothing to prevent a 2 ton 110v compressor from being made other than the use of 15A service circuits.
In the meantime, I have a couple of local guys to talk to about custom systems and components. Working the grapevine.
One question that has come up: It was mentioned that maybe scroll compressors don't do well in parallel compressor layouts. First time I've heard that and I need to know what it means.
As it stands presently, I need four 1 ton compressors. I'd like to cut that number down by one or two.
Jim
Quote from: windtrader on June 02, 2022, 08:47:03 PM
@Glen - don't go back! For that matter any busnut who defiles a classic bus by putting those UGLY warts on top is well ...
Our classic (antique) bus was purchased with one thing in mind - it was a Coach (GMC) before it was a bus (Greyhound) and was purchased while in commercial service for a personal diy complete restoration & RV self contained conversion - the roof top wart, the awnings, penetrations, rip outs, add ons and all - for us, wifey & I - not anyone else not commercial but personal - one & only - no other perfectly alike. We like that... :^
I don't remember who, but inquired why he had two different inverters in his bus and one of them was 240V to drive the mini-split system with two heads...
For sure a consideration when starting to do electrical if using 220 as the primary source and feeding down off that. What he is a redundant system and that is nice in case.
One guy posting here seems to have it right on the mini splits for cooling Lee has a lot of cooling btu not the normal 9000 btu posted by some lol he could survive AZ in July
There is not one answer since there are many factors such as amount of insulation in the coach, amount of days spent in reallyhot weather, the amount of heat one can still call comfortable, etc. This stuff has to go into a formula that will spit out the BTU best suited for your use and comfort.
Don; your rite on not one size fits all.. I insulated Roof roof beams(inside them) then another layer above ceiling treatment. walls the same and also floor from underneath . When you have it is when you can shut one off and you still have enough. Those roof beams act like toaster elements--I used a IR gun and there was a 40F differance from insulated foam already between beams.. I built my home also with the insulation Idea as well.. With the avaliabilty of the ceiling difiuser now. It gives you a better choice of indoor (evap)I mini-split units. I have no horse in this race as I have made mine several yrs ago. I usually winter in Florida. Spend late July at home (camping) all is well.
Need a replacement roof top on our 20yr old toter home.(national box on 120 Fl) Don't have room for mini-split condensor unit.. Have 15,000 on roof now.. We do tractor shows in it pulling low boy. Midwest where humidity is the hvac killer.. suggestions Bob