On an 8V 71 in an 4106, I need/should to replace the fuel lines. What am I looking for? There is a lot of choices out there.
Assuming that the current hoses are in place and the correct ones, the simplest way to replace them is to take then to a shop that makes hoses and have them make a new set just like the old. Every town that has truck repair shops will have at least one of these hose shops.
Cloth covered low pressure ,hose shops usually sell you high pressure rubber coated hose hard to work with then they crack,If you have the OEM Aeroquip hose just buy the hose stock and make your own the fitting are reusable and easy to work with that is why they used Aeroquip 150psi working pressure is more than you need for a 70psi system,Stainless low pressure covered silicone hoses are real nice but they come at a high price good luck
What Luvrbus said... And the ends are solid brass & serviceable over & over - not throw away. After 42 years of same bus ownership this is a subject near & dear to our maintenance schedule. BTDT over & over with the same gold ends. :^
Dan
I have used nothing but the replaceable hose ends for years but never seen brass ones. Mine are steel.
Quote from: Bill Gerrie on November 14, 2021, 05:47:47 AM
Dan
I have used nothing but the replaceable hose ends for years but never seen brass ones. Mine are steel.
Dans are collectable lol I run across a few brass Aeroquip fitting not many anymore except on old marine engines,you can still buy those in stainless from Parker for a price
Bill we have a couple steel ended hoses but most are "red" brass - the highest quality with more copper content according to the scrappers
Luvrbus - BINGO! I just realized why most of our hose ends are brass! Our 53 has a 69 Grey Marine engine. You were the one that gave me the clue on why I couldn't find a DD serial number during our rebuild. Lol
:^
Years ago I replaced all the fuel lines on my "62" 06,, They were run along the curb side wall and a bear to get to.. I replaced all with lengths of pre-made steel brake line that I pieced together as I went along the line.. Most of the old line had rusted thru from the inside out.. That was in 1980 and the same lines are still in service..>>>Dan
Quote from: silversport on November 13, 2021, 08:47:21 PM
On an 8V 71 in an 4106, I need/should to replace the fuel lines. What am I looking for? There is a lot of choices out there.
What gives you the idea the fuel lines need replacing in the first place? Everything on these buses mostly looks old, just curious how one knows when lines are just aged but got life in them? Personally, I've got a list of parts I know need work and no desire to add more to the fix-it list. lol
Lines have hardened, seeping fuel, outer jacket decaying and got some visible perishing . The usual list for rubber products.
And, when you have a "finished" bus, you need to find something else to "catch-up" next... no work on the bus makes the busnut grumpy?
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Some hoses get harden then with no flex they crack the fitting on both the fuel and oil lines lol hoses are a lot easier to replace than some of the damn fittings
Yikes! At first I was with wind trader. I've had my bus just a year now. I have changed two badly cracked ratty looking heater hoses that got cooked in the engine box area and it was amazing to watch the new ones get made as described above. Just take them the old one, tell them what it is, and very fun to be handed a brandy new one to put back on. But I got a bit frightened when I see all the salty guys talk like they change fuel lines all the time!!?? I've also wondered about my wheel bearings. Two old guys told me if it they ain't leaking don't mess with them. Another said do it after so many miles?? I change oil and fuel filters probably more than I need to, but fuel lines? Checking what mine are made of is I guess is a good start.
Some change lines every 5 years some wait till one leaks or goes on the highway, any hose is exspensive now, radiator hose sell by the inch now buying by the foot is a thing of the past unless you have deep pockets
So do they get gummed up or is changing just preventative? Any advice on wheel bearings?
Quote from: Tedsoldbus on November 15, 2021, 02:07:30 PM
So do they get gummed up or is changing just preventative? Any advice on wheel bearings?
They get dried out, stiff, and start to crack. They can also collapse on the inside, but that doesn't seem as common.
Wheel bearings? Have you got any idea when they were last serviced?
The bio fuel is tough on old fuel they break down on the inside too.Wheel bearing should be checked at the least every 100,000 miles their life is usually around 150 to 200 thousand miles.Have a good shop do those for if you see a guy beating on the lock nut with a hammer and chisel run those are a special torque 200 to 400 ft lbs to load the inner bearings FWIW
When replacing hoses I now routinely also add the silicone/fiberglass insulation sheathing over any hose that's close to the engine or exhaust. I had a high-pressure hydraulic hose burst some years ago, and I'm lucky it didn't set fire to the whole bus when it sprayed onto the exhaust pipe; the old hose was completely dried out and brittle from the heat there. For small-diameter fuel lines such as to the fuel pressure gauge I use stainless-braided PTFE hose because it runs alongside the engine, but most of the other fuel lines look similar to PEX and they all seem OK for now.
John
wheel bearings last a long time.
Wheel end SEALS are a different matter.
Commercial stuff needs a wheel end inspection/teardown annually. A busnut might stretch that a bit...
You really want to get in there for inspection and lubrication periodically. A new set of seals, both the inner and the outer gasket, is best practices.
Leaking inner seal takes out your brake linings with lube soak, $o there i$ $$$ motivation to at least know the age of your seals.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Quote from: buswarrior on November 16, 2021, 06:03:06 PM
wheel bearings last a long time.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
So if someone has no idea how many miles a wheel bearing might have on it, how do you go about deciding if it needs replaced?
How does one visually determine wear/damage?
Quote from: lovetofix on November 16, 2021, 08:41:04 PM
So if someone has no idea how many miles a wheel bearing might have on it, how do you go about deciding if it needs replaced?
How does one visually determine wear/damage?
The wheel bearings themselves last a long time if maintained, but they still require inspection/service. If they've been properly maintained over the years they'll go back in. Otherwise, replacements are in order.
Unless you have evidence that the hub has been serviced in recent years, it would seem that at a minimum the hub should be pulled and a full inspection service completed. That means cleaning, inspecting the bearings/races, replacing the seals, and repacking with grease/refilling with oil (as appropriate).
While the hub is off, the brakes should also get a full inspection and service.
This will set you up for years of use without worry about the hubs and all the internals.
To check a tapered bearing
1 you check for a nice smooth even wear pattern in the bearing race you should not be able to feel any marks
2 Look for any chips or flaking on the rollers and inter race
3 Inspect the bearing cage that holds the rollers there should be no wear on the sides of the cage holding the rollers
4 Look for heat marks and rust
5 proper adjustment is the key to bearing and seal life .Most all bearing and seal manufactures recommend the TMC method you can find that on Stemco site
6 you can replace a lot of bearings and seals for the price of 1 axle spindle
Every one does it different If I have a hub off I replace the bearing the and seals if the bearings show any wear .LOL we won't get into the oil vs grease I don't have problems with the oil bearings and seals though
good luck
Quote from: luvrbus on November 17, 2021, 03:47:18 AM
To check a tapered bearing
1 you check for a nice smooth even wear pattern in the bearing race you should not be able to feel any marks
2 Look for any chips or flaking on the rollers and inter race
3 Inspect the bearing cage that holds the rollers there should be no wear on the sides of the cage holding the rollers
4 Look for heat marks and rust
5 proper adjustment is the key to bearing and seal life .Most all bearing and seal manufactures recommend the TMC method you can find that on Stemco site
6 you can replace a lot of bearings and seals for the price of 1 axle spindle
Every one does it different If I have a hub off I replace the bearing the and seals if the bearings show any wear .LOL we won't get into the oil vs grease I don't have problems with the oil bearings and seals though
good luck
Thanks for the write up Clifford I need to pull my front hubs apart the drivers side tire has a little play when it's jacked up. Really hoping that it's not the king pin other wise I'm in for a lot of work
Not all wear/damage you see in a bearing race is cause for replacement. An example is the very small pockmarks you sometimes see in the worn area of the race. Maybe caused by hydraulic pressure between the roller and race, if they do not have any sort of regular pattern and are small they aren't likely to affect the bearing. Clean the bearing and races thoroughly with brake cleaner and dry with an air gun then with hand pressure push the bearing into the race and rotate it under as much pressure as you can apply by hand. If you feel any roughness at all and you are positive it is all perfectly clean and dry, replace it.
Jim
After thorough cleaning carefully inspect the surface the rollers ride on behind the cage that keeps rollers in place. Bright led flashlight works.Not uncommon to have deep pits in this surface and no indication on the rollers
Also bearing mfgrs have illustrated charts on their bearings to indicate acceptable reuse and discard. Google it.
Any tapered bearing that the roller inside the cage has end to end play you can feel needs to be replaced,I was taught that years ago,taperd roller bearings are made to be loaded by adjustment unlike ball bearing. Example like a old DD blower it has ball bearing in 1 end and the tapered roller bearing in the other end for adjustment
That's because the ball in a ball bearing skids if there is any side loading at all, due to the curve. A tapered bearing properly preloaded never skids. It's theoretically a friction free bearing but in practice the required preloading does create a bit of friction. But not much.
Jim
Then you have the barrel bearing. Supposedly, GM bearing division came up with these to get around the patents on roller bearings.
I don't know if a barrel bearing is a zero skid bearing like the Timken design but I suspect not. In any case the original patents have long since expired and every bearing manufacturer in the world now makes a timken type bearing. And for good reason.
Jim
Fresh seals, if it has been apart.
Cheaper than losing the brake linings to oil contamination, and compromised stopping power until you discover you're "lubed"
happy coaching!
buswarrior