I have a 96 MCI 102dl3 with a series 60 engine. It has a Webasto to keep the engine up to temp. Mine is completely disconnected from the fuel line, exhaust, wiring harness, etc. The controller up front is disconnected.
I work part time as a school bus driver for my community. Some of the busses have Webastos that don't get used. So the bus mechanic said he could remove one and sell it to me. Here's are my questions. Should I take the one thats in my bus out and send it out to be reconditioned? Or do I purchase one from my school district?
Heck if I were in your position I'd consider replacing it with a Chinese knock off for a fraction of the price. They have the air & water combination heaters on Alibaba. Just saying.
From the looks in the photos the unit looks fairly degraded from the exterior anyways.
how much do they want for the school bus unit ? and how old is it ?
dave
I'd say it's worth asking someone like Lloyd Degerald if he thinks it worth the time/effort/expense. That would give you an idea of a path moving forward.
Buy the one from the school bus it probably has never been used,you can spend a bundle on a Webasto and still have a problematic unit ,they serve a dual purpose people can add more clothing to stay warm the series 60 doesn't have the option.You have the option of the Espar and Pro/Heat that will fit in that area too MCI came with the 3 options Pro/Heat is the most popular and trouble free ,the Chinese unit forget it that is too much work to install a unit in that space to chance a Chinese unit
I don't think that it is that much of a problem. Webastos are overpriced old tech that are great when working. Time to move to some new tech and give it a try. Just get a couple of spares. Remember, like it or not, there are a lot of great items that are cheap and reliable coming from them, including many of our name brands. I'll have to contact the owner of Harbor Freight and ask him to carry them.🤔
The one in your bus is 24V. The one out of the school bus is 12V, or 24V ?
QuoteJust get a couple of spares. Remember, like it or not, there are a lot of great items that are cheap and reliable coming from them
LOL, then why order couple of spares if so reliable? If that is a standard part for Series 60, I'd ask around big truck recycle lots for a used one
JC, I also have a '96 102DL3 and my unit is the Eiberspacher. Don't listen to the Chinese, they don't have anywhere near the same capacity (80-90Kbtu).
It isn't hard to disassemble the unit in place, which will reveal it's true condition. Don't assume anything. It could be like new, totally ragged out, or anything in between.
They are not that complicated. It's just a burner with a chamber, a fan, a fuel supply and a water pump. It has a little brain built into it but it's not much. Parts can be swapped.
If your bus mechanic gives you a good price, buy it. Swap in the known good unit and inspect the old one at your leisure. You now have spare parts that you probably will never need. Or if the burn chamber is clean just fix the one you have. Just because it is unhooked does not mean it isn't in working condition.
My controller was bad. I swapped in a $15 Chinese digital thermostat.
The one thing you should consider doing is adding a valve so that the engine can be cut out of the system and you can heat only the coach. One of the big solenoid valves already used in the system should be a good choice for that. Your bus guy should have one, maybe he'll throw it in on the deal.
Jim
The school bus units are a few years old. They thought $500 was reasonable, which I agree. The units are Scholastic DBW 2010 series. 45k btu. I am not sure if they can be programed to come on while driving to bring the engine temp up. I assume that's how the OEM unit worked. I don't want to buy something that can't work as the OEM unit intended.
Quote from: sledhead on January 25, 2021, 04:40:52 AM
how much do they want for the school bus unit ? and how old is it ?
dave
Good point. I didn't think of that. I will need to check.
Quote from: lostagain on January 25, 2021, 07:10:17 AM
The one in your bus is 24V. The one out of the school bus is 12V, or 24V ?
Jim
So your heater turns on automatically when the engine drops to a certain temp, correct? Does the Chinese controller control the operation as the OEM would? Here is a recent pic of the unit. It may be a Eiberspacher for all I know.
Quote from: Jim Blackwood on January 25, 2021, 10:43:17 AM
JC, I also have a '96 102DL3 and my unit is the Eiberspacher. Don't listen to the Chinese, they don't have anywhere near the same capacity (80-90Kbtu).
It isn't hard to disassemble the unit in place, which will reveal it's true condition. Don't assume anything. It could be like new, totally ragged out, or anything in between.
They are not that complicated. It's just a burner with a chamber, a fan, a fuel supply and a water pump. It has a little brain built into it but it's not much. Parts can be swapped.
If your bus mechanic gives you a good price, buy it. Swap in the known good unit and inspect the old one at your leisure. You now have spare parts that you probably will never need. Or if the burn chamber is clean just fix the one you have. Just because it is unhooked does not mean it isn't in working condition.
My controller was bad. I swapped in a $15 Chinese digital thermostat.
The one thing you should consider doing is adding a valve so that the engine can be cut out of the system and you can heat only the coach. One of the big solenoid valves already used in the system should be a good choice for that. Your bus guy should have one, maybe he'll throw it in on the deal.
Jim
I did talk to Lloyd and he said to send it in will be a minimum of $500 just to look at it. Then the repairs and parts will be more obviously. Could get real expensive, fast.
Quote from: richard5933 on January 25, 2021, 05:02:08 AM
I'd say it's worth asking someone like Lloyd Degerald if he thinks it worth the time/effort/expense. That would give you an idea of a path moving forward.
Quote from: Jcparmley on January 25, 2021, 01:35:29 PM
I did talk to Lloyd. . .
I talked to Lloyd about my AquaHot not providing enough hot water to wash the dishes, let alone take a shower. He said it needed a new mixer valve, $240 plus shipping.
Turned out that same valve can be had at Home Depot for $40.
And no, it didn't solve the problem.
>:(
Rocket surgery it ain't.
The Webasto and the Eiberspacher look a lot alike. I had a thread about it on here if you can find it. I did a lot of research then pulled the head off the can and checked out the chamber and the jet and fan on mine and it was all good. There really isn't that much to go wrong. You shouldn't be afraid of it, what's the worst that can happen, it gets disabled right? Like it is now. Not likely you are going to make it worse. You will at least learn some things.
As mine is now it is controlled by cabin temp but it's a work in progress and I don't know if engine operating temp will be an issue or not. But that's why I suggested the solenoid valve so you can send heat where it is needed, and not where it isn't. That applies to the control too obviously. My timer was bad so I needed something to turn it on and this was the cheapest easiest quick fix. Just one wire tells it on or off.
Jim
Good point Jim. I will pull it out and open it up. What can go wrong, right?
Quote from: Jim Blackwood on January 25, 2021, 02:37:22 PM
Rocket surgery it ain't.
The Webasto and the Eiberspacher look a lot alike. I had a thread about it on here if you can find it. I did a lot of research then pulled the head off the can and checked out the chamber and the jet and fan on mine and it was all good. There really isn't that much to go wrong. You shouldn't be afraid of it, what's the worst that can happen, it gets disabled right? Like it is now. Not likely you are going to make it worse. You will at least learn some things.
As mine is now it is controlled by cabin temp but it's a work in progress and I don't know if engine operating temp will be an issue or not. But that's why I suggested the solenoid valve so you can send heat where it is needed, and not where it isn't. That applies to the control too obviously. My timer was bad so I needed something to turn it on and this was the cheapest easiest quick fix. Just one wire tells it on or off.
Jim
A DBW 2010 is a 12 volt unit. 45 kw isn't a whole lot of heat either. I would try to fix what you have.
The idea of a spare or two is if it quits, easy to install another one. Like your water pump. If you already have a good WORKING Webasto, then disregard.
The control module on one of these is worth more than $500.
As noted, grab that school unit for spare parts, potential use, or pass to another busnut, but see about getting the big gun in yours working again.
The positive thing about sorting the wonky coolant boilers on these coaches, you'll know exactly how it is supposed to work, once you get it all traced, researched, maintenance and testing caught up...
And not be afraid of the damn thing again.
Thrash it to the ground
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
I am with the crowd that says tear into the Webasto you have. You will find the bearings are readily available at a fraction of the "authorized" service price. The wiring is horribly flimsy for the application.
Look at this link. https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32866
I made this change and replace a flaky Webasto controller with the Beckett. I also took the opportunity to rewire the internals with silicone insulated wiring. Prior to the change, I threw a lot of money at the hit or miss Webasto. After the controller change and wiring upgrade, it has never failed to light.
Our shop installs and sells Webasto products. We have yet to have one fail. We get great support from our rep that is not what I can say about many companies.
If someone wants a product from them. just give us a call as we do not come on here often. We are owners of three Silversides Buses. We are building two into RVs now as we are a custom builder. We will be using their products in those builds as we do in all our Van conversions.
Quote from: lostagain on January 25, 2021, 04:52:52 PM
A DBW 2010 is a 12 volt unit. 45 kw isn't a whole lot of heat either. I would try to fix what you have.
45KW is a lot of heat!!! My Espar unit is 10KW and it gets by, would like to double it.
Also the Chinese knock offs are rated by the fuel consumption so a supposed 16KW heater is actually 8KW of output..
8kw = 27,000btu
I was watching a video today that was comparing Webasto products and Espar/Eberspaecher and the consensus was that Webasto solution was quieter and had better options for buying parts and controllers after the warranty period is over.
I have an Eberspaecher Hydronic/M/10 and I am currently jumping through lots of hoops as the controller has done a safety lockout and the Ebay diagnostic kit I purchased is not working...
However in it's defense it more and likely that the screw ups were on my part in using it for R&D of a DIY hydronic heating system.
As to the quieter part what I do hear the pump pulsing metered amounts of fuel to the burner. Thinking of remounting the pump on rubber mounts when it is working again.
Though it is sort of comforting to wake up at 3AM to hear it pulsing away before rolling over and going back to sleep.
Webasto hydronic heating system was installed when I got my bus. Three season has not seen a lot of use since by RV guides says stay away from cold. LOL
At least how my system is designed and configured, it is not dead silent. You do hear the burner fire up and hear the woosh of a lot of heat flowing into the plumbing. The fan powered registers have three flow settings and you can hear them on high, medium a little, and on low very hard to hear.
It works fine but there is some kind of leak now which I am still sorting out. Embarrassed to admit I forgot where the overflow tank is.
If I was installing a new heatings system into an empty coach, I do Webasto again if cost were not a consideration. Others have different systems so there are other solutions.