Hello all...
Regarding my 2002 MCI D4500, I have seen a variety of applications where some leave the original windows or others change them out with sliders, different sizes, etc. I really like the original bus look and the consistency of the window sizes, but also understand the need to have new windows with screens, etc., as well as smaller ones at the sink and counter tops where the original windows are quite low to the floor. I have seen windows that were painted over or covered with vinyl. If I leave the windows, I can blacken them out, insulate over them, etc. However, if one was to break, can the glass be replaced from the outside, or do they need to be able to open them from the inside (?) If they need to be opened from the inside, it would be a problem if they are covered with walls or other hardware. I'm open to all suggestions. Thanks in advance! Glennman
The general consensus is to remove the windows you don't use. Having slider windows with screens is the most practical. Windows (old) can leak, and they add to the A/C load. If you cover them on the inside you will have problems getting them out if you need to. The inside trim ring holds the window in place.
Besides what Walter said, MCI bus window frames leak, rust is easier to remove or seal with the window out, if you put aluminium or steel, cover from drip rail to drip rail, you will eliminate most, if not all of the water leak areas, lvmci...this is Gary Bennett riveting the Italian Greyhound aluminium window covering...
3 years ago when I was converting my bus I had this romantic vision of an observation train car almost. Where one could have a panoramic view of the world as it passed by.
I don't feel that way anymore. I removed only 2 windows from each side, leaving 10 in total. We've been fighting thermals in the summer and finally got it under control with cellular blinds and blackout curtains. If I could do it over again, I'd remove 4 more. Leave two for the bedroom, and two for up front in the "observation" area.
As far as what to do with the windows you remove. I picked up some 4x10' sheets of 1/8" aluminum. Used my table saw to rip to the right height. and machine screwed it in place (with sealing and all of that) .
Although I am quite sure that those of you who have been there and done that actually do know best I have this romantic view of Not Spending Time and Money where it can be avoided so for now the windows are staying put. However, in due course some of them will be replaced with sliders, can't say at this point how many, and some will be blocked out by the kitchen. These windows require access to the bottom bar to be opened or removed so I will keep that in mind during the build out and try to find ways to maintain that access. Eventually I may skin over some windows or I may not. Just part of my own personal approach to converting an RV.
Jim
Dude, I 100% get working in a budget of time and money. So much of my build was dictated by that, maybe even the windows situation. It's just my own Monday morning QB on myself really.
Not sure how the windows release latches are on the new MCI's, but on my MC9, I removed all the bars. My plan was rebuild it in solid oak. I did get the oak up, but it's not functional as the window release. I found a good flat head screw driver works just fine to release it from the top. Now I don't need to worry about 3 inches of clearance. It made building our kitchen (still have windows there) easier. Most of the windows we rarely open, so it's not a big deal. Just something else to consider.
Eventually I want to go with RV windows from peninsula, but again, time / money .