Is a 12 ton bottle jack OK, or should I buy larger ?
Is the Harbor Freight 12T air bottle jack OK ?
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-air-hydraulic-bottle-jack-94487.html Should I buy something better ? Should I buy 1 or 2 of them ?
I'll weld up some jack stands.
Is the Harbor Freight 3/4" socket set and torque wrench OK ?
https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-63883.html
What other bus specific tools will I need ?
Thanks
Their 3/4 drive sets aren't as good as Snap on or some big names, but as good as Craftsman or Kobalt, but good value for the money. And they will replace broken items. Don't know about their 3/4 drive torque wrench, but they recently offered a better brand of tools at higher price point that appear to be of better quality.Btw, if you use any sockets with an impact wrench, you should use impact rated items. They are thicker walled and are of a less brittle material, although millions of people have used regular ones with no problems. I have split regular sockets with an impact several times over the years.
I would think a 12 ton jack is big enough, you shouldn't be lifting more than 1/4 of the bus at a time. However, it's my expectation that a larger capacity jack will have an easier time lifting the same amount of weight as the smaller jack.
One jack is enough but I think two jacks will be desirable for some jobs. It does not have to have as high a capacity as the heavy one.
My recommendation would be to buy one 20 ton jack and one 12 ton jack.
I use a pile of 4x6 blocks of wood as jack stands.
We carry two stubby 20T jacks, one's a little shorter than the other With a fair amount of misc. blocking.
Those air operated bottle jacks are awesome after using non air and having arm get tired moving handle under coach. You may need a couple pieces of plank to get enough clearance in some situations. The 4104 requires a shorty to use under rear axle. In that situation, the 20 ton is better as effort to raise coach is much more manageable. The only down side Ive experienced is that if tire is low or ground is depressed under tire, sometimes you run out of jack travel before tire clears.
Harbor freight has their 12 ton on sale at times. There are companies that offer air operated low boy jacks.$$$
I needed a square Budd socket for removing my dual rear wheels.
Nothing else special so far.
I have used the Harbor Freight jacks for years and yes they eventually start failing, but for the price toss it in the scrap pile and buy 2 more! I have always kept 12, and 20 ton both around using either or for any job.
I really love the air operated ones also much faster and easier to use from a distance w/o having to be hands on to jack it up.
As for the 3/4 socket sets well I have busted plenty of the ratchets and breaker bars and even a few of the sockets, but for the $ I'd say go for it. Your not running a shop where you will be using them to make a living day in an day out all day long. In those cases your better off with a better quality brand, but that said I have broken Snap-on, Mac, Matco and S-K brand tools as well, but not as easily as the cheap Chinese knock offs.
;D BK ;D
If buying China made tools Northern Tools has better quality than Harbor Fright.all depends on what you use the torque wrench for if buy a H/F torque wrench
OH I never use a generic torque wrench! I have 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" drive Snap-on's each in it's own protective case. (I actually have 2 - 3/8" drive one does inch lbs and the other foot lbs) And I have a couple of my dad an uncles OLD antique needle style that are still surprisingly accurate (I check them against the new ones occasionally just for fun and to see if the new ones need re-calibration)
;D BK ;D
PS my Amish boss asked me the other week if I had one he could borrow to torque the barrel on a new gun he was building I said sure so we went by my place an when I opened the drawer he reached for one of the old antiques (he didn't know what was in the red, blue an black cases) I laughed an told him yeah you might be alright with one of those, but I bet you want one of these two and set the 1/2" an 3/4" drives on top of the box as he opened the 1/2" case he said "you mean there is a bigger one than this" I said "Yup, depends on how much torque you need". He said "well they sent this sorta socket thing and it's supposed to have 250-270 foot lbs", so I took the 1/2" drive out of the case set it to 260 ft lbs and handed it back to him and told him "there ya go, just turn it until you hear and feel a click" He looked and me and asked "Is it that easy?", I remember my dad using one like this and having to carefully watch the needle or have someone watch the needle while he turned it"
I told him yes this is the best one for what your doing.
When he gave it back he said "Wow had no idea how tight that was!"
I have the Harbor freight 3/4 socket set and have been very happy with it, has most of the sizes you need for an MCI 96A3, The only issue was when I first purchased it, the outer cardboard wrapper said SAE, when I got home, after removing the cardboard and opening the set I found it was the Metric set and had to go back to exchange.
I considered the Harbor Freight Torque wrench from the OP, until I realized it only went to 300 Ft LB, The main use for it for me would be torqueing lug nuts that require 450 FT LB.
I also have two of the Harbor Freight 20 ton Bottle Jacks, that live in the Bus permanently and have performed flawlessly no matter how much I abuse them.
Peter
I never bought a H/F air jack,Doyle gave a set of 20T and they work ok I have had to replace the hoses on both,I don't believe they will lift 20 tons though my Blackhawk is 35 years old and does a better job with less strain
Thanks for the replies.
Should I get an air gun as well ? I plan to do all my own work on the coach. What size air gun should I get ?
Is a bus air compressor big enough to run an air gun ? I have a 5 HP single stage air/ 60 gallon compressor in my home shop. I also have a spare 60 gallon air tank.
What size are the lug nuts on an MCI E/J coach ?
I bought the 10 ton HF air/bottle jack and it works fine. Lifts the whole front of the bus, no problem at all. Haven't tried it on the rear yet.
Jim
Yes for occasional use a HF 1" impact is fine.
However now days a good brand 3/4" does the same job as the old 1!"
Now that said and I don't OWN one yet, but the new Milwaukee battery powered impacts are BAD @$#! I would seriously consider one of those if I were you!
I have a Porter Cable 1/2" battery powered 1/2" impact that I THOUGHT was bad, and I am around the guys using the DeWalts all day long M-F but just last week saw that new Milwaukee in operation and it's hands down BAD @$# compared to my Porter Cable or the crews DeWalts!
So you might skip the air powered an consider a good quality battery operated one!
;D BK ;D
What's the part number or model number or name of the "good" Milwaukee impact gun ?
Model # 2864-20
Model # 2867-20
Model # 2868-20|
Model # 2869-20
Nice, but friggin expensive. But when I look at a good quality air impact, they aren't much less.
Should I be looking at 3/4" or 1" ? What torque rating ?
We love our 3/4" drive Chicago Pneumatic. Like new after 30 years of use!
Like this one ? https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Pneumatic-CP7763-4-Inch-Impact/dp/B000QJE9RA
Quote from: someguy on October 01, 2020, 10:47:30 AM
What's the part number or model number or name of the "good" Milwaukee impact gun ?
Model # 2864-20
Model # 2867-20
Model # 2868-20|
Model # 2869-20
Nice, but friggin expensive. But when I look at a good quality air impact, they aren't much less.
Should I be looking at 3/4" or 1" ? What torque rating ?
My porter cable snapped the square head off a 3" 1/2" drive extension but would not budge it.
I couldn't budge 1 bolt with 24" breaker bar with a 4' cheater pipe slid on it so really I had about 5' of breaker bar and still never got it to budge.
So the guy that was there said hang on a minute and came back with that Milwaukee, I laughed and told him see that impact over there, it didn't phase it.
He said humor me, and so I did and WOW that BAD SOMEBITCH zapped that bolt right up out of there!
I didn't get the model # as I was loaned it for the 1 bolt, and handed it right back to him.
I would either go with the BADDEST 1/2" drive or 3/4" drive battery powered one you can get.
They are much handier, smaller, and lighter than a 1" with comparable torque!
And so much nicer not to have to drag a air hose around!
;D BK ;D
a lot of problem breaking loose lugnuts is the spring flex from extensions. Go to 1" drive and those extensions dont act like springs. I would just get 1" breaker bar, extension, and sockets just for the wheel removal. Usually this difficulty is only when wheels havent been removed for years. Rent the big stuff?
BK has a point as far as portability in the battery tool. That CP looks different than ours. We've been using our Chicago Pneumatic for 3 decades so we're partial to it & it surely doesn't hesitate to loosen stubborns. We use black steel impact extensions because standard extensions reduces the effective shock of impacts & sockets too (impact vs standard) for that matter...
Busnut tool duty is pretty light...
In 10 years... the air tool will still work just fine.
The battery powered tool?
Maybe old school is enough?
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
BW 10-4 on old school! That's how we originally did it & still can if need be. Always carry the 6' x 1-1/4" cheater!
I carry a torque multiplier for changing tires on the road. They definitely get the lug nuts off but I don't trust them for tightening to a set torque so would plan to stop as soon as possible at a truck tire shop to get the lugs properly torqued. I tried marking the lugs and wheel when the lugs were at spec and then removing (counting revolutions). I then reversed the procedure using the torque multiplier to tighten to my marks. The result was off (loose) by about 25 ft lbs at 325 ft lbs.
Good enough to get to town but not good enough.
I'd love to have a 1" torque wrench but just can't bring myself to buy one for such a limited need. Jack
We have a 3/4" torque wrench good to 600 ft lbs & a 4 to 1 torque multiplier but don't carry it on the bus. We have developed a pretty good "feel" with the 3/4" air impact.
I like Delo 100 :)
😅
This spring I installed new brake drums and shoes on my drive's and the guy that helps me is a heavy truck mechanic and he brought in his Milwaukee impact gun not sure what model but because he uses it at work I am sure it is the most powerful gun they have .
We used it on 3 nuts then it would not do any more so for me I would stick with a air impact 3/4 " or 1" ( 1200 foot pounds or more ) so you know it will always work
dave
Ok I'm a Milwaukee guy so let me clear this up.
Milwaukee makes 3 different high torque impacts, each designed for a different use and each one has progressively higher torque. I'll post three screenshots that include the torque info and a pic of the machine.
I have the smallest impact shown here, it does good on lug nuts considering it's only a 1/2" drive
Smallest to biggest in order
I have a Milwaukee 1/2 drive it doesn't have much hang time and has been replaced twice,I have aa I/R from the 60's and a MAC both 1/2 inch drives they work every day and just require a few drops of oil,lol to much impact wrench will have you buying good drill bits and taps
I've seen pictures of Milwaukee nose pieces that split or shattered, probably from trying to loosen nuts that wouldn't loosen. I think once you get them loosened and cleaned and properly retorqued, most 3/4 electric will suffice. Or break loose with big bar first.
I have the Dewalt version, DCF899M1, I purchased the ½ version over the ¾ version DCF897B figuring it would be overall more useful to me.
The torque specs are the same.
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899M1-Brushless-Torque-Dentent/dp/B01D61NSUS/ref=pd_lpo_469_t_2/131-3135356-5316719?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01D61NSUS&pd_rd_r=be25b07e-ea13-4787-8442-df0faa187d02&pd_rd_w=HueqN&pd_rd_wg=Zt0d4&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=CV9QWX11C6QB4933CH71&refRID=CV9QWX11C6QB4933CH71&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899M1-Brushless-Torque-Dentent/dp/B01D61NSUS/ref=pd_lpo_469_t_2/131-3135356-5316719?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01D61NSUS&pd_rd_r=be25b07e-ea13-4787-8442-df0faa187d02&pd_rd_w=HueqN&pd_rd_wg=Zt0d4&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=CV9QWX11C6QB4933CH71&refRID=CV9QWX11C6QB4933CH71&th=1)
So far I have been thrilled with it, removing the tires on the Bus became much easier, this thing took those lugnuts off without issue.
I was a little concerned with the reverse thread lugnuts on the driver's side of the MCI, was not an issue.
I have yet to find a bolt that it would not loosen (or break).
I went back and forth for a while on the Dewalt vs Milwaukee conundrum the reviews were about even.
I finally went with the Dewalt to save a few dollars.
In the yard where I work on the bus there are a couple guys that work on other things, one of them refurbishes and sells old boats, he has always had trouble getting any of the trailer bolts loose.
Just after I got the Dewalt he was trying to get some badly corroded bolts loose that hold the spring shackles to the trailer, after watching him struggle with a breaker bar and a 4 foot pipe I brought out the Dewalt, to both of our surprise it took those bolts off in moments breaking only one of the eight.
He went out and bought one the next day.
Peter
I've got the 1/2" Milwaulkee, not sure which model. It's a very good tool but I doubt it would be enough for lug nuts. Might want to have some spare batteries at hand.
Jim
OK just to clear something up, the Milwaukee I was loaned was a 1/2" drive BAD @$# SOMEBITCH! The Amish carpenter crew I work with are ALL about DeWalt everything they have is DeWalt and let me tell you some of that stuff is IMPRESSIVE, but that Milwaukee 1/2" impact the guy from the cabinet shop (YES CABINET SHOP! and don't ask me why they need such a badd @$# impact in a cabinet shop because I don't know and neither did William didn't know either, he just said "I don't know it's just what they bought") was hands down the BADDEST I have seen.
Also to top it all off I wasn't taking off a lugnut! It was a starter bolt of ALL THINGS! NO it should not have ever been that tight, but I wasn't the one who installed it, and NO it's not that tight now!
That being said I have used both my Porter Cable and borrowed DeWalt's 1/2" cordless impacts on lugnuts and not had any problems.
I am going to get me one of the exact same Milwaukee's as I was loaned because that thing just impressed the HELL out of me!
Yes I still have 1" air impacts an I/R a Chicago Pneumatic, a Snap-on (actually "Blue Point" but it's made for and sold by Snap-on) and some off brand cheapo that I got off a traveling tool peddler. (I bought a shop press, eng. hoist, eng. stand, 3 heavy duty floor jacks, metal band saw, 3/4" socket set w/ratchet an breaker bar, battery tongs, and a heavy duty Scumacher battery charger all for $300 cash) and believe it or not that CHEAPO out did all three of the name brands for about 2-3 yrs before becoming a heavy duty door stop!
;D BK ;D
Quote from: hogi6123 on October 01, 2020, 07:23:18 AM
I needed a square Budd socket for removing my dual rear wheels.
Nothing else special so far.
Hey Hogi, your "doorman" here...
I purchased one of those low geared lug nut removal tools a while back. I've used it once, very successfully. It came with several sockets, including the square one. It has a ratio of like 1:75 revolutions (75 turns of the handle gets one turn on the socket. It will crank the lug nuts off by hand (so to speak). A handy tool for the bus.
Once you add an extension to an impact wrench, the torque is noticeably reduced unless it has no play and beefy enough to not flex.
Quote from: Glennman on October 02, 2020, 12:40:27 PM
Hey Hogi, your "doorman" here...
I purchased one of those low geared lug nut removal tools a while back. I've used it once, very successfully. It came with several sockets, including the square one. It has a ratio of like 1:75 revolutions (75 turns of the handle gets one turn on the socket. It will crank the lug nuts off by hand (so to speak). A handy tool for the bus.
I bought a torque multiplier too but with a multiplier of 3. I thought that might be useful for other jobs too. I haven't used it enough to know if I should have bought something else. I still needed a long study bar on it for lug nuts but it does make the removal easier.
The best tool is a cell phone (with a good battery and strong signal). 8)
The second best tool is a credit card with enough limit to cover any need that arises. ;D
I have a torque multiplier (78 to 1 ratio) and use it with a cordless drill to remove the lug nuts. Must be very careful when using it to put them back on to not over tighten them - you can easily break stuff with this setup. ::) :'(
I also use a 3/4" drive torque wrench to bring them to final torque.
Before I got the torque wrench, I used a pipe extension, a bathroom scale and some basic math to get the proper torque.
I have a torque multiplier. I had to use it about four years ago to change a tire on the road. We somehow bent some of the long BUDD nuts on the dual. I carry a Makita battery 3/4" impact now that will remove most lug nuts as long as the tire jockey didn't overtighten with a 1" impact.
I made a stand to hold up the ratchet end of the extension to minimize bending stress on the nuts.
Also, it is important to make sure the reaction foot is flat against the wheel surface to prevent bending the studs.