I have done my own in the past but it's too heavy and I'm too old & tired to even think about pulling a drum.
I having problems with uneven braking. steering wheel pulling and some grunts and groans in the front. I never notice it during my normal (conservative) driving but if I stab at the brakes hard I get all the above.
Anyway, how about a price range I can expect from best to worse case from a truck garage if I can find one that will work on it. This is on my motor home, not the 4104. It's a 36,000 lb. chassis with air brakes (about the same as the bus).
Thanks,
Len
i don't know about a motor home but i spent over 7000.00 on my Eagle
I had some minor brake work done. The snap ring came off the slack adjuster. To pull and reinstall the rear tires on one side. Clean and inspect adjuster, new snap ring, and adjust brakes all around $175.
Damn, I'm feeling stronger already.
Len
I don't know the size of your brakes, but at our Freightliner dealer, a new 16.5" x 7" drum is about $100; the lining kit with springs about another $100 per wheel. The normal front brakes of a truck are 15" x 4", and usually need replacing every about 2nd or 3rd brake replace on the rear. Obviously, should be less for the front. But even at the same price, should cost about $800 for the parts for all four brakes. What might get expensive is if your S cam bushings are worn out. Then plan on about another $200 per wheel. With four brakes you should be able to have a complete brake replace with S cam bushing replace for about $1600. Be careful of the linings that you put on. They make several that are very specific to your use. Consider a lining that works best when it is cold, maybe a bit softer lining that grabs a bit better but will wear out sooner since the mileage we put on is low.
Hate to say it, but luvrbus, I think you got taken for a ride with a $7000 brake job-unless of course the brake drums are plated in gold! Good Luck, TomC
Tom,i had the brakes upgraded to a larger size all new drums, adjusters scams ,bushings ,and air pods i thought it was to much too but i see a bus for sale on the other board that SOD charged 9000.00 for 4 wheels ,anyway it stops great and i feel safe
luvrbus-as long as you're pleased with the work is all that matters. Good Luck,TomC
Tom,you are lucky because your bus has large brakes and no need to upgrade like you need to do on a 05 Eagle because they are hard to stop with all the extra weight
luvrbus- what size did you go to? I know the drums on trucks are 15 x 4 in the front and 16.5 x 7 in the rear (4407 sq in sweep area on two axle). Compared to my transit that is 14.5 x 7 in front and 14.5 x 10 in the rear (5614 sq in sweep area on two axle). Course air disks would be the best, but I can't even imagine the cost to change to them. Good Luck, TomC
In the last two months I've replace wheel bearings, seals, brake drums on the front, new slack adjusters, brake pads, air lines, brake actuators, 4 new air bags and I've only spent around 1,100 in parts the labor was mine, I honestly think when some of these people see a bus pulling in they automatically think money! When you get older your at the mercy of the system! Mohawk is a home converters dream! I don't work for, or invest in them! The hardest part I've found working on a bus is just making the bus safe to work on when I have it up in the air, I use a lot of oak cribbing! I would recommend getting quotes unless you've broken down on the road then ..............well I just won't go there! :'(
Pat
http://prevostlemirage.blogspot.com/
Tom, i have 10in on the rear and 6in on the bogie and front i know someone that is putting disk all the way around on his Eagle and he has spent a ton of money on the upgrade
Muddog16- You're doing an impressive job on your bus. Way more involved than my conversion. The 8V-92TA looks great. Since you are doing such an impressive project and seemingly not forgetting anything, I would maybe suggest to upgrade your 8V-92TA before installing. The one obvious thing it is missing is the bypass valve on the blower. It would be located on the right rear top of the blower and look like a small can with a hose leading back to the blower. What this does is when the turbo is doing its work, the bypass valve opens and bypasses a portion of the turbo boost to the other side of the blower equalizing the pressure on both sides. Then the blower is then just basically free wheeling, not using any power. The bypass valve is usually good for another 20hp. Don Fairchild tested an 8V-71 without, then with the bypass valve and got a 22 hp increase. Just thought if you're doing it, then do it all the way. Good Luck, TomC
Anyone have any personal experience with Raney Truck Center in Ocala, FL?
http://www.raneystruckcenter.com/v4/default.asp
Pretty impressive facility. I talked a service manager and got a worst case estimate of about $1000.00 for the front axle (drums, brakes, bearings, slacks etc.)
Not cheap but those drums get heavier every time I look at them.
Len
Muddog16,
Very impressive! How much did you pay for that pattern you're using to build a new bus? Just kidding but it doesn't look like you will have much of the original metal left when you are done. Nice looking steer wheel and assembly. What did it come out of? If you don't mind sharing.
TomC,
I thought the later turbos had a built in blower by-pass.
Len - I didn't knoe you were in Ocala - call me and I'll hook you up w/ Dale Cyr he's a local Eagle owner and probably has the info you want or can get someone to do it for less - HTH - (813) TWO SIX SEVEN FIVE FOUR EIGHT SIX
Len, that price sounds pretty good and from what i remember those hubs are darn heavy!
Lee, the pattern is from about a 1000 busnut ideas that everyone has come up with, I've had very few orignal idea's. I may not be capable of an original idea ;D The steering wheel came from Ron the Bus nut, the dash is from CPI, Mac did a great job on that I'm pretty proud of it!
Tom, I'll look into that bypass valve that sounds very interesting, this engine is the Double "0" 92 model, (they fixed most of the oil leaks) and was only rated at 445 hp, when Jasper did the live dyno it only showed 435, I think I can live with it, its not a DDEC, its the older style, I'm still working on the accessory drive stuff. Thanks for the good words!
Pat
I have several good friends that work for construction outfits they are very well versed in working with semi's, heavy equipment and the like. Do to the fact they are not in competion with their employers they usually will pull a side job if the money is right on the weekend etc... Not a bad choice if you do some checking around on the qualifcations of the indiviual your working with, and are not overly concerned with warranty. Many of these guys are really good at their trade. Good Luck :)
Muddog16- My 1980 truck with the 8V-92TA was also the Double "O" 92 aimed at owner/operators. When I installed the bypass blower valve it wasn't so much the power increase but .2-.3 mpg better.
Lee Bradley- the turbo is on top of the engine and the blower is in the valley of the engine. Two separate devices. The blower is mechanically driven (typically 2:1 ratio to the engine) and has the option of installing the bypass valve. The only turbo I know that would have a bypass valve on is like the one now installed on my bus. We used an early Series 60 12.7 turbo with a pressure waste gate. As consequence, turbo boost happens at just 10mph. Good Luck, TomC