Hello,
When I close my door with the handle on the dash I can push it past the detent to "latch" but it pops back after a few seconds. Also on a related note there seems to be a small metal tooth just below the floor level that looks like it ought to pop out and lock the door shut. Where is the control for this? I assume mine is probably less than functional so any insight helps.
Thanks,
Ben
There is a red lever under the dash in front of your right knee. Pull it toward you and it will activate the air claw to draw the door tight.
This one I assume? If I remember correctly its current options are leak a little and leak a lot. I'll air it up tonight and try it out. Any idea on the detent? I was told be the previous owner there is an adjustment somewhere that will allow that to keep it closed. There is a small button on the outside just under the windshield that has a hole for a lock. I was told you can put a padlock through that and when you remove the lock and press the button it should release the door.
Thats it, but make sure the aircraft cable behind it is in place and tight...
I got the details, wiped out by the internet, type again later...
HC
Buswarrior
Quote from: lvmci on July 02, 2020, 09:22:07 AM
Thats it, but make sure the aircraft cable behind it is in place and tight...
It has two red hoses going out of it in the back. I didn't see any cable. Currently there is no resistance and no leaking noises. I am almost 100% sure I remember it being harder to operate while I was driving it. I was aired up with the compressor but the batteries are removed. Is there an electrical component involved? I saw there is a switch for when the door is closed.
Sorry for the delay...
Remove the cover that heads toward the door, on the face of the dash.
Under there, you will find the bar that opens and closes the door via the dash handle.
With a large wrench, you make little adjustments to the length of that bar, turning the nut shaped coupler. By small adjustments, i mean no more than a stroke, to start, and fractions of one, once you get close.
A partner to test after every adjustment really helps speed the process.
The over centre locking strategy is a really fine hair trigger compromise between too hard to lock, and too easy to lock the door by simply closing it from outside.
You want to have to slam it from outside to lock it, or it is a real pain in the behind to have to go 'round the front to push the button all the time.
There is no cable, those came in much later coaches, with a different system found in the washer compartment, not with a button on the front.
You need a long shaft padlock to fit well on the button, and make lots of keys, and hide one outside the coach somewhere.
There is a microswitch for the air lock, in there somewhere, look carefully, and be damned careful of your fingers, if there's a wind or anyone "helping" while you are into the guts of this stuff, there is ample leverage to remove a finger in there...
The air lock is electircally commanded, pneumatically activated. The red handled air valve at your right knee under the dash is the supply/override for the door air lock.
Whatever you do, be sure you keep track of where you started with adjusting, so you can get back to where you started, if you screw it all up. Count, count, count.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
So by default should the latch lock the door anytime it is closed? My current assumption is that it is frozen up so I'm still working out what it is supposed to do so I can work towards that goal. Thanks for the detailed guide on the adjustment. I might err towards letting it lock too easily for now. My door glass has a few large cracks and I'd like to avoid it deciding to exit the window frame until I can throw some money at it.
The air lock circuit is powered by the Master Control, so it only grabs the door when the ignition is on, and that there is enough air pressure to move it.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Well I guess I'll have to lug the batteries back out to test it. I'll try tomorrow if the weather isn't too hot again.
Quote from: buswarrior on July 05, 2020, 05:07:40 PM
The air lock circuit is powered by the Master Control, so it only grabs the door when the ignition is on, and that there is enough air pressure to move it.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
I tried it out again today with the power on. My memory was correct that the options seem to be leaking more or less depending on where the switch is. Regardless of where it is the switch is the latch never pops out to keep the door shut. I'll have to investigate more to find out if the pressure is just too low with all the leaks or if it is stuck.