BCM Community

Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: Dave Siegel on February 26, 2007, 08:03:51 AM

Title: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Dave Siegel on February 26, 2007, 08:03:51 AM
Hi guys, I have read the previous post several times about what you get or can get out of a correct 50 amp plug and hook-up. My question is far easier than all of that so I didn't want to include it in that post.

I have removed our propane stove (sold it) and want to put in a 2 burner ceramic cook-top (electric). I have found some nice ones that are 120 volts but the one that I really like (no knobs, just touch sensors on the surface) only comes in a 240 volt version. I have a 120/240 10 KW Onan generator that is wired into the bus to deliver 2 legs of 120 (or 240) My shore power plug is a 50 amp plug that works the same way.

My question is can I set up a 240 amp plug in the bus to hook up this stove? (Or hard wire it) I realize that I would have to run the correct wiring to the plug.

Thanks in advance for your answers, 
Dave Siegel
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Jerry32 on February 26, 2007, 11:59:22 AM
Yes and it will work as long as you can get 50 amp service or your generator but not on a 30 amp adapter.
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Nick Badame Refrig/ACC on February 26, 2007, 03:50:11 PM
Hi Dave & Jan,

That 240v cooktop won't work off of your inverter either..

I have the 2 burner Seaward Princess but, the 2 knobs stick up.. >:(, Both burners can be on with a 20 amp breaker and no problem.


Nick-
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Chaz on February 26, 2007, 05:56:24 PM
I thought that cook top said it was a 120v.  ???  Am I/did I miss something??

     :-\Chaz ???
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Connel on February 26, 2007, 07:00:06 PM
Dave,
You have the kind of cooktop I want to install in my coach.
What is the brand, where was it purchased, and what was the cost.

Thanks,
Connel
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Sojourner on February 27, 2007, 02:03:42 AM
Either way, but if your 240v range already came with plug...then install 240v (4-prongs) receptacle nearby (range's area) and hard wire to entrance box. It more convenience to remove range unit using plug system.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Dave Siegel on February 27, 2007, 05:01:17 AM
Well this turned out to be interesting.....I'm glad, and it's not too teknikal yet.
OK I have determined that I can use a 240 cook top by wiring it in like you would at home. That's what I was wondering. Now there are a couple of other questions I want to answer.

CHAZ  said, he thought it was a 120 volt cook top and did he miss something? Chaz, I have a "portable" 120 volt induction cook top. It sits on the counter and can be put away in a cabinet when not in use. I wanted to install a 2 burner ceramic cook top that would be built into the counter top and ready for use at any time. That one is 240 volts.

CONNEL wanted to know what kind of cook  top I have. Which one Connel, the portable induction or the built in ceramic two burner model?

Thanks for all the great answers.

Dave Siegel
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Chaz on February 27, 2007, 06:05:41 AM
Thanx Dave. Some how I was thinking that the one on ebay is what you were wanting to put in  your coach. But now I see what your talking about.
  So, can you help me a bit??? After reading this post and looking at ebay, I am REALLY interested in a cook top like the one on ebay. (120 portable) You say you have one? Is one brand better than another?? I would really like to know the pros and cons of them. It really sounds like the hot ticket!!!!
  I just bought a 3 burner gas cook top and am now questioning my decision and before I install it, I want to get some info on that type of cook top. Since you have used one, what are the pluses and minuses? By the way, I don't plan on doing much cooking inside the coach.... besides the convection microwave.

  Sorry for hyjacking! But this is really of interest. I may need to start another thread.  :)


     Thanx!!
        Chaz
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Dave Siegel on February 27, 2007, 06:53:11 AM
Chaz, Before I get started, I love to cook, I am a good cook, and I love to eat good food, so I look for the best way to get me there. With that said.......

I originally installed a three burner Coleman gas (propane) cook top in our bus. We only used it a few times because it seemed to take forever to cook food (not a very hot flame). And the ambient heat around the stove was horrible. We have a PD3751 (Silversides) and our Galley is quite small, even with the vent open right about the stove the heat would become unbearable. I went to a restaurant supply house, and bought two of those single burner butane stoves that they use in restaurants for brunches and the chef has an Omlette station. They are wonderful, very hot and very efficient, but I learned to use them out side on a camp table. Not as bad, but Still a heat problem.(But because they are butane, they can safely be used indoors.)

I got this portable induction cook top and can not understand why any one uses anything else. They are flawlessly simple to use. Extremely fast. No ambient heat around the cook area. (Perfect for inside a bus) They only problem is that you have to put it away when it's not in use. It's like your toaster. But then again, if you leave your toaster out, you can leave this out. The cook top heats up instantly. Cools down instantly. And even has a heat overload shut down. I chose this model and it has worked well for us. It comes with a pan and a cover to get you started. Here's the exact link. (I have no affiliation with this company, but I wish I did)  Be sure to copy the complete link to get you to the right spot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Table-Top-Induction-Stove-Ceramic-Cooktop-Magnetic-Cook_
W0QQitemZ300084681592QQihZ020QQcategoryZ71248QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash
=item300084681592

Happy to answer any other questions,

Dave Siegel
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: DrivingMissLazy on February 27, 2007, 07:01:35 AM
Dave, you might want to check and see what the amp rating of the 240 volt unit. If what you would be using would be 15 amps at 240 volts, then you could install an autotransformer that would step up your 120 volts to 240 volts for the range. 15 amps at 240 would be equal to 30 amps at 120 volts.
Richard
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Dave Siegel on February 27, 2007, 07:15:42 AM
Richard............Huh? I didn't get that one. I am wired in the coach for 240, would I still need that transformer?

Dave
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Sojourner on February 27, 2007, 07:30:23 AM
Wondering why not make a shallow hole with open side to vent unit's heat (self contain fan) to be flush with counter top and still able to remove for portability. At 15amps @ 115v is very small power to emit unsafe heat out of unit's vent. About same amount of heat expels as large micro-oven power.

Now bring out the old cast iron skillet that we use in 40's. ;D ;D ;D

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Jerry
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: DrivingMissLazy on February 27, 2007, 07:48:06 AM
The transfsormer would only be required if you are hooked up to a 30 amp, 120 volt source. I did not realize you were wired up for 240 volts. There would have to be some switching installed for when you are connected in to low voltage.
Richard
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Dave Siegel on February 27, 2007, 08:22:38 AM
Actually, I probably wouldn't even worry about using that stove if I was hooked to 30 amp or lower power. I certainly have enough other cook tops at my disposal. All I really need is a nice tent or canopy on the side and I could cook out there even in the rain, then all of this conversation would have been for naught.

Dave
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Chaz on February 27, 2007, 08:31:22 AM
Thanx Dave!!!! I am going to look into this further. It sounds almost too good to be true! (reason why I'm asking  ;))
  I will search some other brands to get any other info I can, but I always like personal recommendations. And I won't hold you accountable.
  Any other info you can think of would be great. Thanx for the lead!!

   I appreciate your time and help!!
    Chaz
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: TomC on February 28, 2007, 08:05:47 AM
I wrestled with the idea of going completely electric from the start since I don't like propane.  I've seen what a leaky propane line can do to gutting a motorhome.  Once I looked at the prices of the Princess elec stoves (used primarily on boats), the gigantic price of the Aqua Hot, and that you'd either have to have 50 amp service, run the generator, or have enormous banks of batteries, I chose to go the propane route using an Atwood 3 burner stove with oven.  The front burner is larger for boiling, which is nice. 
I mounted the 20 gal propane tank directly under the floor of the stove and also used the Atwood 35,000btu propane furnace that is right next to the stove.  So my propane lines are very short and also have a 12v solenoid valve on the tank where I can turn on the propane only when I need it. In the nearly 7 years that my bus has become usable, and over 20,000 miles worth, the propane stove and furnace has had zero problems.  I only have to refill the propane tank once a year.  Then with the propane, can cook without massive amounts of electricity or the maintenance of the Aqua Hot.  Good Luck, TomC
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Dave Siegel on February 28, 2007, 08:31:16 AM
Tom,
I also had a 20# propane tank directly below the stove area. The line was only 5 feet or so long, and was run in a very protected area. I guess my main reason for making this change is the amount of heat transmitted from the cook top during the cooking process. I tried several ways of venting the stove and nothing seemed to work well in our coach. We are set up to where we either have to run the generator or plug in somewhere, so electric seemed like a natural way to go. I would love to be able to afford a dual burner induction cook top but the price puts it out of our league, so a ceramic top is the next best choice. But I have to tell you, the more I keep talking about this, I am starting to become inclined to put in a solid counter top and just go with two of these plug in induction table top cook burners. Just put them away after dinner. Then we would have   clear counter top to mix drinks on.

Thanks for you ideas,

Dave Siegel
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Len Silva on February 28, 2007, 09:18:34 AM
Dave,

I haven't actually seen the portable induction units you are talking about but we are all fabricators here of one sort or another.  How about making a built in from the portables? Hey, if it doesn't work, it's just one more expensive screw up to add to the list  ;D. You might even be able to put them under a glass or ceramic top.  Try it with a piece of glass between the element and pot, see if it affects the heating time.
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Chaz on February 28, 2007, 10:03:29 AM
Tom,
  Do you cook allot in your coach?? I think that may be one of the determining factors for me. I won't. I actually think one of the portable table top models would be adequete for me! At least I THINK so! Time will tell. And for one of those, I don't need to worry too much about the 50 amp service..... do I??????
 But I probably still will have propane on board, for the fridge, etc.
 I went to: http://theinductionsite.com/proandcon.shtml  and got TONS of info on induction stoves - very cool.

   Always cookin somethin up,
        Chaz
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Dave Siegel on February 28, 2007, 10:36:54 AM
Wow Chaz, I especially like the link that you provided. If you scroll down where they show cut away pans, it really shows you just how convenient this type of cooking is. That's a really cool website. Even tho' I use Induction this is good to have for reference.

Unfortunately, there is no way to built these units into something. And by put a sheet of glass in between would make the cook top not work. The cooking surface must stay in contact with the cooking pan.

Dave Siegel
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Chaz on February 28, 2007, 10:43:38 AM
Your welcome Dave. I'm glad I could contribute something.

  I think Len may have been suggesting that if you would build a recess in the counter top, put the cook tops in it, and then have a piece of glass or ceramic to go over it when not in use. That seems like it could be the best of both worlds. I may even look at that idea. A cutting board top would be cool and have yet another function. (cutting your limes for Marguarita's!!!)  ;D

   A thought by a non-cooker,
         Chaz
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: H3Jim on February 28, 2007, 10:51:52 AM
I left the cooktop exposed, although it is a smooth glass one at counter height, but I did put an insert in above the sink.  I really like it.  It covers up any dishes I may have in the sink.  I leave a dish drainer in the sink, so they can dry there too, out of sight. 

I also have a section of the counter top material that I use as a cutting board - seen between the sink and the stovetop.
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: Dave Siegel on February 28, 2007, 10:57:37 AM
Nice job Jim. How did you get the cover for the sink to fit so well?

If we go with a ceramic top I plan to do the same as you did. Leave the cook top exposed, but cover the sink, with an under mount sink.

Dave Siegel
Title: Re: 120/240 Electric Cook Top Hook-Up question
Post by: H3Jim on February 28, 2007, 11:07:30 AM
The edge of the cover and the sink hole are beveled just a little.  The cover is not the same piece that was cut out to make the hole as the saw kerf was wider than the tolerances needed to make this fit properly.  I had had in mind to create a small shelf that the cover could sit on, but the guys that made the sink and countertop wanted to do the bevel.


This was one of the things I paid someone to do - make the counter top.  Corian installers and matieral selllers keep such a tight rein on who they sell to. It sure was easy to write the check.

If there is any downside, its that the corian top is quite heavy, so for the women around, moving it on and off the sink takes a little effort.  The hole cut in the middle was an afterthought, but works very well.  Both as a handle, to lift and replace, and as a slot to stuff the sponge when I'm done wiping everything else.  And presto, the sponge is out of sight as well.