I have 2 buses 3 trannies. Transmission#1 had a chatastrophic input shaft bearing/nut failure. Still made it from Amarillo to Boulder City NV using 1st then 4th gears only. It was always leaking at the output shaft seal since I had the bus.... So when I bought an other transmission from Tampa I wanted to check the seal on the new purchase and compare it with the old one. Plus I had to swap the brake drum over since the new tranny didn't have a brake drum. The old transmission had a single modern seal in it. With the round spring and all. However the newly purchased tranny had all kind a extra parts around the seal like large washers and other rings squeezing some sort of flat rubber (?) part.
Now that I'm driving the bus 2-3 times a week the newly purchased tranny started to leak as well. The old tranny's output shaft wobbled a little, so I wasn't surprised that it leaked. The newly bought tranny runs great, not a bit of vibration or anything, it just leaks from the output shaft seal. Owning an Austin Healey I'm used to marking territory but I would like to tow a nice classic truck behind the bus and the oil gets on the back of the bus right now and consequently will get on the nice truck behind it. (1964 F100 with 3 on the tree)
When I installed the large nut holding the parking brake drum I used ultra copper sealant because I've found traces of it on both transmissions.
Any recommendations how to properly do this? And more importantly, where to buy a new output shaft seal? I'll appreciate any input you have!
I hate oil leaks. I bought a Studebaker in Seattle and drove it to La. It used 4 cases of oil (and two front tires) on the trip. Long story short, the cork front crankshaft seal was completely missing and the king pins were shot. I patched up the seal, put a couple of skins up front and traded it for an old Terry travel trailer--I think we both got beat up pretty bad.
My advice? buy another bus and hope it doesn't leak and memorize Brad Paisley's lyrics--there is no cure for the bus disease. Jack
Buy another bus. Wow. Get the proper seal. If the bearing is worn, change it. If the yoke is worn, change it. Everything can be fixed.
Where can I buy a proper seal?
These buses were made so they can be repaired. I always get amazed how well they were built. I'm gaining more and more knowledge about different systems. Getting better as I go.
Quote from: Bountyflyer on March 31, 2020, 09:15:32 PM
Where can I buy a proper seal?
These buses were made so they can be repaired. I always get amazed how well they were built. I'm gaining more and more knowledge about different systems. Getting better as I go.
The first number in your speed dial for parts like this should be Luke at US Coach in NJ. Phone number is: 856-794-3104
Calling is the best way to reach him. Luke is generally in from about 9:30am - 4:30pm eastern time. Not always there on Fridays, if at all.
Likely he has the seal sitting on the shelf and can get it sent out today. He's a huge supporter of us all in the bus world, and should probably be the first place you try for most things like this.
Thank you! I'll call him.
Quote from: Bountyflyer on April 01, 2020, 07:30:58 AM
Thank you! I'll call him.
Ask him about the parking brake shoe as well. Might have a used one on a parts bus or maybe even a new one.
Most the time just replacing the seal doesn't last unless you install a wear sleeve on the flange,if the propeller has wear in the splines the vibration beats the seal out also,make sure the pump is working also
Bountyflyer I replaced our output transmission seal in our 4104 in 2009. We purchased it from a local bearing house. The part number is SKF 31261. The large nut on that shaft is a doozy at over 1000 lbs of torque - we wrestled it with a 600 lb - 3/4" torque wrench & 4 to 1 (3/4" to 1") torque multiplier. A little persistence and it all came apart & all went together okay. Been bone dry for leaks since then. If you want to fill your tranny for the last time in your life go with a full synthetic 50 wt. Ours has Shell Dentax in it (no longer available) - 500,000+ mile change interval & much smoother, easier shifting. Good luck, keep us posted.
There is a place in town to get the seal.
Quote from: Van on April 01, 2020, 11:08:04 AM
There is a place in town to get the seal.
Where at?! I would love to find them!
Aztec on Russel Road in Vegas will have it,Van knows of other places,Aztec has a lot of speedy sleeves and seals if you need one
Quote from: luvrbus on April 01, 2020, 12:22:24 PM
Aztec on Russel Road in Vegas will have it,Van knows of other places,Aztec has a lot of speedy sleeves and seals if you need one
Dat the one Cliff, there are others scattered around town.
Thanks guys, will look into it!
Keep in mind that the seal part number I gave is seal on original shaft, no sleeve.
Good info thanks!!
My shaft is original. The nut came loose with my electric torque wrench. (That thing is awesome!) will try to buy a few today.
I use aero shell w80 in the tranny. Has lot of additives what is missing from synthetic oils, but again it's like the decision between Pepsi and coke...
Thanks again for the part number!
I'm confused when you mention additives. The 4104 spicer doesn't like additives - that's why GM spec ed 50 wt aviation grade which is mineral oil w/o additives. I assume it has something to do with foaming among other things.
By the way Bountyflyer you may want to confirm that nut torque during assembly because if you removed it with an electric impact - there probably wasn't enough torque on it which may be where your seal problem is. That output shaft bearing needs to be preloaded otherwise the shaft, bearing, & seal (among other things) will pay the price.
Im pettty good at confusing everyone. I meant to write that the aviation oil has no modern additives. I found aero shell w80 available so that's what I put in.
The Makita electric impact wrench has an incredible torque rating. I broke several bolts with it in the past. But now that you mentioned it, I did use a braker bar to get it loose. I can feel some output shaft looseness on bus#2 so a leak is understandable, but the one I just put together doesn't wobble at all just casually leaking.
I guess practice makes me perfect....
Did you use thread lock and sealant on the large nut? How did you torque it putting it on?
Didn't use any thread lock during assembly. Used a large torque wrench on a 4 to 1 multiplier. I don't find the torque value for that nut in da book. Not certain what the torque is. I think I remember putting close to 1400 ft lbs on it to get it moving off. It would be wise to read through the transmission section of da book regarding the output shaft flange & nut.
You're running equivalent to a 40 wt oil. Some bus nuts run 30 wt in the tranny. Da book calls for 50 wt which is what we've always run.