I am replacing the turbo on my Series 60. Any tips on this project? My engine is a 1995 so no waste gate or anything fancy. I checked Youtube, but the videos don't actually show getting the turbo off the exhaust manifold. I wish I knew where my Detroit service manual is.
The biggest issue I face is getting the rusty nuts loose. The local Detroit dealer recommended new studs for the turbo, but I have no idea how to replace the studs. It looks like they just pull out somehow.
I just got back yesterday from a trip to Kansas and the most boost I saw was 13.6 PSI at full load.
Studs will be threaded at both ends, unless they are pass through bolts, in that case there will be a bolt head opposite the mounting nut on the manifold.
That 13.6 is with fresh fuel filters?
Fuel filters have about 5,000 miles on them. I have at times seen a little higher, but not what I should see as far as I know.
Easy job, other than it will be heavy. Get the teenage boy next door to help you lift it. And I would get new bolts and clamps.
JC
Quote from: lostagain on September 03, 2019, 07:14:46 AM
Easy job, other than it will be heavy. Get the teenage boy next door to help you lift it. And I would get new bolts and clamps.
The hardest part I think will be getting the studs out which I don't know how to do. I got a quote from the local Detroit dealer to buy a turbo and they included new studs on the quote. I ended up buying a Reliabilt turbo from a seller on Ebay for less than half the cost.
I think the replacement process is straight forward. Remove the exhaust, intake, and oil lines and then unbolt the turbo. Reverse to put it back on.
Before going through the misery of replacing the turbo, I would make sure that it needs replacement. The pressure gauge might not be accurate, and there might be leaks in the charge air tubing connections. Did you take off the inlet air connection to check the turbo inlet to see the condition of the blades and check the bearing play? When the engine is off and cooled down you can wiggle the blade hub a little even when it is new because the bearings have play for the oil pressure when running. If the turbo is shot the fan blades might be rubbing on the housing, or have damaged blades. If it spins freely by hand and has decent play, it might be okay for the time being.
The blades look good, but it only spins 1/2 turn or so when I spin it by hand.
I already bought a Reliabilt turbo so I might as well replace it. The only other thing to try would be to replace the tujrbo boost sensor to see if it is bad.
1/2 turn does not cut it, yes, replace it.
Even my turbocharger on my 1984 Mercedes 300 Turbodiesel still spins freely after 549,000 miles. Yes replace it.
Just get it off the engine then worry about studs and such. Usually, you'll just put new ones on the new turbo. Use an air impact to force the old bolts off. Good Luck, TomC
Replace the sensor and the hose while you are there,if the nuts are rusted and a socket or wrench slips it is a chore today I had to torch the nuts off one
Removing the nuts that hold the turbo can be easy to an extreme bitch. Worse case is having the stud break off and having to drill out and tap the threads to put a new stud. I have done quite a few and it takes practice to drill out a stud.
Quote from: Geoff on September 03, 2019, 10:09:25 AM
Removing the nuts that hold the turbo can be easy to an extreme bitch. Worse case is having the stud break off and having to drill out and tap the threads to put a new stud. I have done quite a few and it takes practice to drill out a stud.
I think the worse situation is to have remove something like a radiator to drill out the stud.
Hey, Not sure if you remember, but you came out to my place shortly after I bought my bus.
If you need a hand, I can stop by some evening.
I'm thinking some penetrating oil and heat cycling with a torch should give a good start to getting them out.
I don't know how the Dina is setup, on a MCI with the 12.7 series 60 they are a bitch to change even without a waste gate
Quote from: luvrbus on September 03, 2019, 02:33:54 PM
I don't know how the Dina is setup, on a MCI with the 12.7 series 60 they are a bitch to change even without a waste gate
It looks to be bad on a Model 15 Eagle as well.
If you are handy with a torch, you can heat the nuts bright cherry red and turn them out with a wrench. If it starts getting real tight, reheat red and repeat. I've removed nuts from chevy exhaust manifolds where the stud was rusted down to 3/16 dia. above the nut sucessfully, frequently.
The design of the Dina is such that getting to the turbo is not bad by removing some side panels.
Has anyone actually replaced the turbo studs on a Series 60? Are they threaded into a hole, or do they have a nut on back? (Don't have access open to turbo right now.)
Can a MAPP gas torch with real MAPP gas get the nuts hot enough?
The are threaded in the center section of the 3 pc manifold ,Mapp gas is a waste of time don't over think it may come off easy without heat and the studs are good
The nuts and studs seem to be quite rusty so I expect a fight. What size impact socket do I need?
Soak studs several times over a couple of days. After the first day, carefully wirebrush the nuts and threads protruding above the nuts to remove any rusty residue, then spray a couple more times. A torch would be nice, but you may not have one. You can try mapp gas torch, but it must be able to get them bright red. I would use a wrench or socket and ratchet. Am impact wrench could snap off the studs, when finess with other might get them off. If nuts are rusted that your socket wants to round off, try a metric socket. Some are between uss. Sizes and may work. You may have to help the socket seat on the nut with a couple light hits with a hammer. AVOID usuing 12 point sockets. They will easily round off a seized rusty nut. If you have room, you can split the nuts with a small sharp chisel. Good luck!
Looks like only a 1/4 inch of stud sticking out of the nut on mine, which is a plus if yours is the same.
I am really doubtful that a mapp torch could get it that hot. But it would be better than nothing if that is all you have. Try to use a 6 point socket and have fun! ;)
Quote from: 6805eagleguy on September 04, 2019, 01:27:50 PM
Looks like only a 1/4 inch of stud sticking out of the nut on mine, which is a plus if yours is the same.
I am really doubtful that a mapp torch could get it that hot. But it would be better than nothing if that is all you have. Try to use a 6 point socket and have fun! ;)
I looked closer tonight and things are not as rusty as I thought. I only have a little bit of stud sticking out like yours. I put some PB Blaster on tonight.
If the metal gasket that came with my Reliabilt turbo is bent should I replace the gasket?