This week-end i tried to remove a front wheel....
Cleaned the exposed thread with a wire brush wheel on a small grinder. Then put some loose-nut.
With a CP7448 gun rated @ 922 lbs of torque, nothing !
Tried a 3/4 breaker bar (Dewalt) with a 20 ton bottle jack... no more braker bar....
Any idea ???
Lug nuts can get very rusted on especially if you live up north where they use salt shakers on the roads.
You may have to use a Smoke Wrench to heat them up cherry red to break the rust to loosen them.
Or try using Kroil. Spray it on and leave it overnight and you may have success doing that.
Also, be sure you are turning the nuts in the correct direction. On some buses, on one of the sides of the bus there may be left-hand threads. Some have an "L" on the end of the stud, but you can usually tell by looking at the threads.
Good Luck.
Gary
Good breaker bar the kind that slides on a solid rod, not the ones with the head on a pin, a 6 foot or longer one inch pipe that fits over the breaker bar.
Get a cast coupler to put on threaded end of the pipe to prevent distortion.
Keep leaning on it, they will go off like gunshots when they break free.
My kids got ours free the first time, out at 8 feet or so. It's all about leverage.
Overtorqued and left for a long time makes trouble.
You are on the right track with cleaning threads and putting the penetrating oil to them.
The torch is a last resort, and really needs to be considered destructive, with new fasteners on the agenda.
Look online for help in identifying if your studs have been damaged by overtorquing. A magnifying glass is helpful for tired eyes to see the threads closely.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Quote from: buswarrior on May 12, 2019, 04:15:58 PM
Good breaker bar the kind that slides on a solid rod, not the ones with the head on a pin, a 6 foot or longer one inch pipe that fits over the breaker bar.
Exactly, the bolt sheared in the threads portion.
Would they be left hand thread if you were doing the left front wheel. Just a thought. Raymond
Quote from: Raymond smith on May 12, 2019, 06:05:36 PM
Would they be left hand thread if you were doing the left front wheel. Just a thought. Raymond
Yes they are left & right thread on left & right side.
Buy a cheap torque multiplier 50 bucks on Amazon
I would take a very close look at the lug nuts, the studs and the back of the wheels once i got them off. I had to use a X-12 torque multiplier to get mi ne off and found that two of my steel wheels were cracked on the back side under the paint. New wheels, studs and nuts and nobody ever touched my wheels again but me.
While i'm at it, i might as well do some test.
So, i will try two things.
First, i will buy a cheap nut breaker on amazon like Cliffod said (the good thing is that it go deep for the dual).
Second, i have access to a 4X torque multiplier (Williams @ 2000 pounds, 1 inch drive output). For this one, i will need an extension for the dual and some kind of resting stand.
The first time I took the driver's side wheels off my bus (left hand thread) I broke the 3/4" drive right off the torque multipler... It took a Snap-On 1500 ft lb impact driver with a 1/2" air hose and my compressor turned up to 150 psi.
And all new budd nuts, lug nuts all round.
Just to be sure if the stud is stamped L you turn it counterclockwise to loosen it.
You turn it clockwise to loosen. Bass akwards from normal loosenig of a nut on a bolt. And on the R side or no mark, you turn it counterclockwise to loosen. Also, don't mix up the nuts from one side with the other, although they should have L marks on them like the studs.
Quote from: Fred Mc on May 15, 2019, 03:54:01 PM
Just to be sure if the stud is stamped L you turn it counterclockwise to loosen it.
Uh Oh! :(
When you do finally get the wheel off and the studs replaced, be sure to paint on Never Seize. I had the rear tires of my truck replaced after sitting for over 10 years. None of the nuts were a problem. Good Luck, TomC
Safety glasses are your best friend.
was that a tar sands bus?
Quote from: robertglines1 on May 16, 2019, 02:30:03 PM
was that a tar sands bus?
No, started it's life as an American Coach Line bus in Atlanta, then moved northeast to Moncton or Fredericton (New Brunswick, Canada) city transit and ended up in North Bay (Ontario, Canada) as a Junior Hockey League transport bus. Have been siting there for about 2 years.
Had it towed on a Landoll for a 6 hours drive ( paid $1875).
a 1 inch gun needs 3/4 to 1 inch hose...
or you are not getting max output.
Dennis: your wires or stamped with a number. Get list from prevostcar.com need last letter serial number plus last 4 numbers(unit number).need help with info let me know. in the tunnel front to rear bulkhead there should be open pvc pipes to run wires thru. be careful with that ddec easy to screw up. Voltage sensative!
Quote from: robertglines1 on May 16, 2019, 06:46:54 PM
Dennis: your wires or stamped with a number. Get list from prevostcar.com need last letter serial number plus last 4 numbers(unit number).need help with info let me know. in the tunnel front to rear bulkhead there should be open pvc pipes to run wires thru. be careful with that ddec easy to screw up. Voltage sensative!
DDEC wiring...
Wine??? You need hard liquor for this job.
mine was burned into at rear bulkhead. Looks like all the info you need. There are allot of extra wires that you won't use. If you have any ? please don't hesitate to ask..
Quote from: luvrbus on May 12, 2019, 06:33:02 PM
Buy a cheap torque multiplier 50 bucks on Amazon
Just received it from Amazon this afternoon.
Worked like magic. All ten nuts loosened under five minutes !
Quote from: MagnoliaBus on May 21, 2019, 04:41:42 PMJust received it from Amazon this afternoon.
Worked like magic. All ten nuts loosened under five minutes !
OK, now more fun. As was mentioned above, now is the time to inspect every nut and stud. If they were so tight that normal torque wouldn't remove them, there is a chance (a good chance) that the threads are "stretched". For each stud, clean them and look at them carefully. It's probably a good idea to measure them for consistent diameter, especially away from the ends of the threads. After they are cleaned up and all loose rust removed, it would be a good idea to put a tiny bit of oil on the threads (if you're one of the people who thinks you should tighten them dry, you can clean them later; if you're a NeverSeize person, it won't matter) and try running each nut onto the studs by hand. If they won't go on finger-tight or if they run easy for a while and then tighten up drastically, you have a problem.
I would expect to change the studs and nuts but maybe you can get away with it and not have to. If you're not feeling confident about checking them, pay someone to do it -- damaged threads on wheel studs or nuts are a bad accident waiting to happen in an inconvenient (or dangerous) place.
Quote from: Oonrahnjay on May 21, 2019, 07:32:59 PM
now is the time to inspect every nut and stud.
Great advice. All that I would add is to torque the nuts to the appropriate level (less for aluminum, more for steel) with a torque wrench (a calibrated one, ideally).
I won't inspect any of them, they are all going to garbage. It will be new studs and nuts on all 3 axles. As well as new bearings, and every parts brake related. What i will inspect is hub and spider (brake anchor plate).
What i did for the left front wheel, is that i removed five nut and then loosened the remaing untill i saw a gap the thickness of a business card, then i turned the steering wheel from left to right a couple of time (no jack under the axle) and then there were no more gap between nuts and the wheel. Did the same thing 2-3 times and now the wheel is askew :D So i know its not frozen on the hub !
Next is the brake drum...
Really ? Get a pitch gauge....
Quote from: eagle19952 on May 22, 2019, 04:12:30 PM
Really ? Get a pitch gauge....
Yeah, a pitch gauge to check the king pin...
Quote from: MagnoliaBus on May 22, 2019, 02:49:21 PMI won't inspect any of them, they are all going to garbage. It will be new studs and nuts on all 3 axles. As well as new bearings, and every parts brake related. What i will inspect is hub and spider (brake anchor plate).
That's an expensive way to go but there's a good chance it's the best choice and the least cost overall in the long term. I think that's good maintenance planning.
Good luck for now on with this project, Denis.
Better price them first.
Quote from: chessie4905 on May 22, 2019, 05:26:39 PM
Better price them first.
No, this bus won't leave it's concrete pad before brake, suspension and steering is all rebuilt with new parts (including air tanks, valves, fitting, hoses...) the frame will be completely sandblasted and primed. i plan to invest around 25k for the chassis including cooling upgrade and all the wiring. Then i will begin the conversion.
I want peace of mind.