Is there a diagram for locations? I have only found one at the back of the coach, RR compartment by the compressor. I have not seen any others nor does the operators manual even reference them...
Bottom edge of every air tank.
Two at front axle, 1 at rear axle, 1 outside under the driver.
The one at the back is the discharge muffler drain, first place the moisture collects, and really should be drained after every day of operation.
Do you have the maintenance manual, parts manual and operator's manual? You need all 3...
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
I do have the manuals, operators manual doesn't mention it, maintenance manual shows tanks I don't seem to have, and the few tanks I can see don't appear to have any reachable drains, it's driving me nuts. Front tanks are behind the axle and absolutely no way to reach them. I'm guessing the coach has automatic drains outside of the rear manual one.
You'll need a way to get under there safely.
Run-up blocks are a popular accessory for a busnut.
Checking brake adjustment, lubricating the 100+ grease points, periodic air tank draining, etc, etc are all in your future.
Do you have a functioning, recently serviced air drier?
Once you have caught up the maintenance, an air drier means you won't be getting much if anything out of the air tank drains, the "Drain Daily" at the back does need to be drained every day of use, as it collects moisture upstream from the air drier. Leading cause of busnut cries of winter air system failure... not draining the discharge muffler at the end of every day of use.
Some busnuts install cable drains, some busnuts get the tank drains oriented so they may activate them with a stick from the side.
Don't go under an air suspended coach until you know how not to be crushed to death, if the air goes away from the suspension. Remember, you're planning to mess with the air system while under there... the right collection of wrong or broken parts can let the coach drop when the wrong air tank drain is opened...
Yes, we have lost busnuts to self inflicted crushing...
Industry best practices, and proper safety procedures often are missing in hobbies.
Lots posted on this Board for these matters, search function and several evenings of interesting reading!
Be careful
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
I have the factory block that came with the bus, but I would want more than that before I crawled under - was going to look at making solid wood ramps to drive up on and then use 6x6 blocks as additional safety under the frame. Not sure on the air drier yet, have only put about 1200 miles on the bus since we bought it, still going through all kinds of maintenance and education on it.
Something like this might be a good investment as well...
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/material-handling/dock-truck/ramps-wheel-riser/steel-wheel-riser-wheel-ramp-60-l-x-18-w-x-6-1-4-h-20-000-lb-capacity?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CjwKCAjw1KLkBRBZEiwARzyE72bEjUigQlAJXnW4UXd-Zkgu3_Wr7hiB0rs_vh2_gVjLExaJt7cwRRoCgU8QAvD_BwE
Save your money on those. Take the time to build them out 2x10's laid 5 or 6 side by side and glued,screwed, and or bolted together. Probably 8 or 10 foot long with a stop at end. Four or 5 foot of taper. Whatever you use, make sure the ground under them is solid so they don't try to tip with weight on them. You can attach handles to the sides to assist in moving around. If they are going to lay out in the weather, apply some kind of wood sealer or preservative.
Those steel ramps look nice.
You could duplicate in wood for some savings?
Many home made ramps have had to be quietly done over, as they were built too large to get the coach onto them... and end up wickedly heavy, as the busnut physicality diminishes with the ravages of time...
My preference is to use layers of planking, various sizes, so that half assed cribbing principles can be followed, then adjustments can be made, with enough space and planks, you can get the coach up higher, and the planks can serve other uses at the campsite, leveling a low wheel, and everything you can imagine to improve your campsite experience.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
I may look at wood for now, but the steel does look nice and knowing it can hold the weight without issue is comforting as well. I have new front shocks to replace so I need to figure something out, and of course just want a good look around the suspension areas and for greasing. Nothing beats an old fashioned maintenance pit. For now I guess I can only drain the valve at the back, as there are no other obvious drains within reach.