Seems simple enough. I loosened the bolt holding it on, bit she won't budge.
I tried a hammer from the underside as well as, I though it moved a bit but no luck. I've got it soaking with the WD40 now.
Thinking of applying a little heat to the outer ring.
Anytips? Am I doing it wrong?
You need a puller and it will come right off. I just replaced mine.
Why not get a steering wheel puller? Looks like that steering wheel has the typical threaded holes in it. The puller has a bolt that goes down to the center shaft and two bolts that thread into the holes in the steering wheel. Get everything snugged up evenly, and then slowly turn the center bolt to pull the wheel.
Like this
See you guys are the best. I kept wondering what those holes would be for.
I wonder of the local auto place has it for free tool lending.
Quote from: neoneddy on September 10, 2018, 06:11:46 PM
I wonder of the local auto place has it for free tool lending.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/evertough-4771/tools---equipment-16488/tools-23747/rental-tools-16837/rental-tools--pulley---gear-19168/2939c87d6f50/rental-tools-evertough-timing-gear-puller/67015/4700239?q=Rental+Tools%3A+Pulley+&pos=0 (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/evertough-4771/tools---equipment-16488/tools-23747/rental-tools-16837/rental-tools--pulley---gear-19168/2939c87d6f50/rental-tools-evertough-timing-gear-puller/67015/4700239?q=Rental+Tools%3A+Pulley+&pos=0)
Harbor Freight sells one. I've used it a few times with good results. It's a lot easier to work on the dash with the steering wheel off!
Just when you think to yourself "Man, Am I doing this right? Seems like this should have come off by now..." it'll go POP! and you'll be good to go.
MAKE SURE you mark the current alignment of the steering wheel on that steering shaft or you'll never get it on straight!
Make sure to use grade 8 bolts in the holes of correct thread pitch. Less give when you start cranking down on center bolt. Make sure bolts are fully threaded into holes so you dont accidentally strip one out.
Did you get a new wheel? If so, where do you get one? Mine has been in the sun so long the top is like soft rubber. You can actually twist the top of the wheel and the rubber is squishy and soft.
Quote from: bronson on September 10, 2018, 06:00:44 PM
You need a puller and it will come right off. I just replaced mine.
I replaced mine with one i purchased from 4 states truck. Took a while to get correct spline but i like it.
Tried a few pullers, no luck. I gave up and unbolted the steering column .
There is a little trick that is secret to mechanics. Tighten the puller as hard as you dare, then hit the top of the puller with a 3-4 lb. Hammer. I also use a electric or air gun to tighten, but you have to be used to such tools or you will break one of the puller bolts.
Definitely use grade 8 bolts, and especially make sure the puller is in line with shaft and not tilting out of line when tightening. When you think it won't let go, thats when you give the puller head a good whack with the big hammer. Be sure to use safety glasses!
Muldoon IIRC said you put the nut back on a few threads and then a piece of steel over the hole and you put the center bolt of the puller on the steel piece covering the hole or it will never come off.
Tip #4882
Cut a small slot in one side of the plate (the one Dave mentioned) to run the horn wires thru lest you apply pressure to between the plate and the steering column tube and cut them shorter than you can splice extensions back on.
Yah, watch out for that horn wire. Cover it with some electric tape. I always get lazy and then in the middle of working on it, it slips and the horn comes on frightening the crap outta me. Heh.
I used a 1/2" thick piece and just move it up against the wire out of the way. :) Didn't think I needed to go that far LOL.
Quote from: Geoff on September 14, 2018, 04:38:43 PM
There is a little trick that is secret to mechanics. Tighten the puller as hard as you dare, then hit the top of the puller with a 3-4 lb. Hammer. I also use a electric or air gun to tighten, but you have to be used to such tools or you will break one of the puller bolts.
Another trick I learnt when using pullers on square-tapered aluminum bicycle cranks if their own extractor threads were stripped: tighten the puller as much as you dare, then apply moderate heat to the pullee. After a few minutes the pulled item will separate with a bang and fly across the room - very gratifying, and it always worked. Can the steering wheel be similarly heated? I know that steel's coefficient of expansion is half that of aluminum's, but the same principle should still apply. Is the MCI steering wheel made by VIP?
John
If you're going to replace the steering wheel, couldn't you just carefully grind a slot in the side of the center hub parallel to the shaft? Stop grinding about 1/16" from the splines to keep from damaging the shaft itself. That should release the hold that the wheel has on the shaft.