Here's my version of bus ramps. Each ramp is made from a single 2"x12"x96" board. 3 steps provide sufficient height and gradual incline. They stack nicely and only 46" long so fit in any bay no problem. I had the bus sitting on them for a few months and there was no bowing of any sort; the ground was soft enough for them to sink in a bit. That top step is 17", generous enough to make positioning quite easy. I just lay something down by the door as a reference for how much to move the bus, works really well. 12" wide to make sure no issues with keeping tire on the ramp.
I assume that they are for some leveling.
No. So far just to raise the bus so jacks and blocking can get under. Plus if all else fails, the ramps should hold. LOL
I am very curious as to what kind of wood is in your planks. The boards look like glued together smaller sections to make the 2 X 12, possibly a hardwood? Almost looks like the decking in tractor-trailers. I think I would have beveled the ends of the boards to make for an easier ride up the boards.
Nice useable/safe ramps for working/repairs or for leveling on site. one modification I would make would be to move the top plate 4" back and screw on a 4x4 as a curb stop at the end of the ramp. This would help keep the wheel centered on the ramp and hopefully prevent tipping or going over the edge while "ramping up" alone.
HI;
These ramps might also be used when changing oil. To me, the wood looks
like "treated" wood. Is it? I will put this on my "to do list".
Thanks, Merle.
Wood - There were comments about using hardwood for ramps, presumably for strength characteristics. My research (1) on various woods concluded pressure treated wood hem-fir (western states) was quite adequate for the intended design and use as stationary ramps. Plus far better value and ability to place on ground.
The ramps were built from 2 8" 2x12 PT boards. Long deck screws were used to secure them together. No adhesive used.
There has been zero issue with placing the wheel on the ramp. The procedure is simple and safe to do alone. Place and center the ramp against the wheel. Find a reference point from the driver position to the ground. Measure about 38" from that reference point and mark the ground. Start moving the coach onto the ramps, you will feel the wheel as it moves up the ramp. When you see the mark at the reference point, park the coach, go take a look, and be surprised how spot on it is. :)
(1) reference http://charlespetersonflooring.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/chapter_05.pdf
Mine are about identical, except I used a 2X10 board. 6 years on, still fine.
LOL just buy a Eagle and toss the boards ,I don't use ramps on my MCI I just push on the leveling valves with a pipe I made till I get the right height and block between the body and axle or use my stands with those you only raise 4-1/2 inches that would do me no good with my belly
I also used an 8ft section of treated 2x12 to make some ramps.
I didn't screw them together because this is how we level our bus when needed. Sometimes we use one level, other times two or three. It works for us. I've never run off the end because my wife stands out there and says "Ok, 3 more inches...and STOP!". Then I get out of the bus with a bright green carpenters level and say "Now its out of level the other way!".
Last time I changed the fluids in the bus engine and trans I dug a big pit under the engine to get to everything. Hey, it's one way to do it.
I mostly use them for leveling at a camp site, since I don't have manual leveling valves. They are great for changing a front tire, you easily get clearance to get the tire out from under the rubber fenders.
Quote from: bevans6 on September 05, 2018, 11:23:39 AM
I mostly use them for leveling at a camp site, since I don't have manual leveling valves. They are great for changing a front tire, you easily get clearance to get the tire out from under the rubber fenders.
? how does it work setting on a board 8)