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This works well and is convenient. I put a dust boot over the male fitting when not in use.
The V configuration is so that you can operate it from the side or rear of the coach.
The needle valve allows you to slowly diminish the aux fuel supply as your lift pump starts sucking.
There is a port for a pressure guage if you need to pressurize the fuel system in order to find a leak or verify the right pressure.
Priming requires that your system not be sucking air.
The parts, excluding the sprayer, were about $40.
Most excellent!
happy coaching!
buswarrior
We have a conventional 12 vdc automotive fuel pump inline between the primary & secondary fuel filters on our IL 671. If priming is needed we flip the switch from driver's seat & the soon as the pump pulsing quiets down the whole system is primed. Electric fuel pump sets idle in line & the fuel flows through it during normal operation. It has bailed us out a few times.
I installed an electric pump in mine. I'll put a switch with indicator light in engine compartment.
The electric pump itself needs to be primed. If your tank runs out of fuel, what is the fuel source? I think there are advantags to being able to run your engine from an external fuel supply - of known quality.
The Davco 380 Fuel Pro processors are getting so cheap at truck wrecking yards 25 to 50 bucks ea it's not worth worrying with filters and a priming system any longer IMO
Quote from: luvrbus on August 10, 2018, 06:14:06 AM
The Davco 380 Fuel Pro processors are getting so cheap at truck wrecking yards 25 to 50 bucks ea it's not worth worrying with filters and a priming system any longer IMO
I'll second that. With the fuel processor you can run totally out of fuel in the tank, but if you pour some in the top bowl you are good for a few miles. (Field tested in 1997). :-[
http://www.mcicoach.com/fyiFromMci/maintMatters/0914.htm
QuoteDavco 380 Fuel Pro processor
Sounds interesting. Does one of these replace the existing fuel filter system? What the schedule for replacing and draining the water, less labor and time than traditional fuel filter change?
Quote from: windtrader on August 10, 2018, 07:20:29 AM
Sounds interesting. Does one of these replace the existing fuel filter system? What the schedule for replacing and draining the water, less labor and time than traditional fuel filter change?
The MCI data sheet covers that. It replaces both the primary and secondary filters, and you can drain any perceived water as often as you like with the engine not running. It's not only quicker and easier to change the filter, it's also cheaper than one spin-on. There are different models, depending on whether you want a heater for cold weather operation or not.
On an 8v71 block, the fuel filters are mounted on the side near the front(pulley) side. Any idea how much modding is required to swap this in? Would hoses need to be replaced? Where to mount?
Meanwhile, I still use the stock primary/secondary spin on filters on my 6V92TA. Never gives any trouble. Replace them once a year. 10 minute job.
JC
All the new buses and trucks now have this new filter system. I can see the advantage in a fleet. Easier to monitor, keep track of, and service. But in my bus the old system works good. Carry spares buried deep in the far corner of a baggage bin (never needed them on the road, but if I didn't carry them I would...). Plus there isn't room to mount a Davco anywhere in my engine compartment.
JC
Quote from: windtrader on August 10, 2018, 07:34:00 AM
On an 8v71 block, the fuel filters are mounted on the side near the front(pulley) side. Any idea how much modding is required to swap this in? Would hoses need to be replaced? Where to mount?
I tried to attach two pictures of it on my 1975 Eagle with the 8V71, but the files are too big. Things are different on the MCI setup, but the engine is the same. The fuel line from the tank comes into the processor on one side, and a short line goes from the other side to the fuel pump. Then the output line splits to go to both heads. You can probably mount the processor anywhere it will fit, as long as the bowl is higher than the fuel pump. I fashioned a angle iron bracket to mount it on, but I don't remember just what it was bolted to. It makes life simpler fuel wise.
The Davco just needs to be mounted higher than the full level of the tank they don't need to be in the engine compartment either,there are 2 Vanhools here they are mounted at the tank so the drivers can check the level when fueling
@JC - what is interesting about this system is it catches water in the fuel, regular filters do not.
#Clifford - It seems the fuel line length should be as short as possible between the filter and the engine. Keeping it in the engine compartment is probably the safest location in case of any fuel leakage.
What's the difference (if any) between this Davco and the Racor 900FG that my bus came with as its primary filter? The Racor separates out any water that can then be drained out its bowl, and its 2 micron filter takes out all the chunks. My Racor's bowl has become cloudy over the years, but replacement bowls are still available. I still have a secondary filter on the engine after the DDEC cooler plate.
John
Racor is a good filter they just won't clean as much as the Davco,I think the 900 is limited to 90 GPH for cleaning,I replace 8 of the Racor this spring with the Davco 382 because it was taking 2 to 4 of the Racor to do the same as 1 Davco 382,AT&T looks at the bottom line only is why the change was made
Don you bring up a good point about draining the water from the fuel and or tank. some MCI's actually have a tank drain little flap on the curb side low on outside to drain water out of tank bottom. I think the 5A & B and the 8"s. My 5C does not have any tank drain. Don't know about your 7 either. Small curbside door by tank area.
I do the same as JC and no fuel problems or priming etc.
Also there are no Truck wrecking yards by us, LOL
If you just want to drain water replace your Napa 3120 fuel filter with the Napa 3123 water separator filter that has a drain at the bottom,Upgrading to the Davco is like upgrading from the old canister type to the spin on fuel filters only better
Clifford Thanks made note of that.
Prime? Never had difficulty priming 2 or 4 stoke DD, Cummins or CAT. Now Mercedes ... that's a whole different ball of wax. We had to make up a primer made from a 12v hand held transfer pump just to get the pressure AND the volume required for those.
Caveate ... as of yet! ;) Of course, nobody INTENDS on running out of fuel and everyone ALWAYS pre charges their fuel filters properly ... right?
One of the first things when I got my bus was put a quality fuel gauge in it. When it gets to empty, I know I still have at least 25 gallons in it, 125 gallons total. I always fill up and stay ahead of the game.
On our AK run the one rule of thumb we always followed was to stay on the top 1/2 of the tank. Our gauge doesn't move off full until it gets down to 5/8 tank then is accurate till empty.
My fuel gauge is accurate when it says 1/2 of tank it holds 115 gals just what it should according to the tank size ,I topped it off today for $314.91
Fuel gauge? What's a fuel gauge?
165 gallons. 6.5 mpg at worst, 8.5 mpg at best. Range of between about 1000 to 1400 miles. A little less if we're running the generator while camping.
We put a yellow Post-It note next to the odometer with the next fill up point. Usually set at 600 miles down the road. Hasn't failed us yet. Gives us a few hundred buffer zone in case we can't find a fueling station just when we start looking.
Curiously, I asked the PO (who was friends with the original owner and knew of its initial purchase from GM) why it was ordered without a fuel gauge. Apparently none of the buses for his charter company were ordered with fuel gauges. The tank held so much fuel that the range was beyond the limits of any driver's daily run. They had a policy of fueling every day at the end of the run, so no fuel gauge was needed.
People run out of fuel because only 80 to 85% of the fuel is usable of what a tank holds ,I go out all the time where people tell me it's not out of fuel I should have 20 gals left.I know you guys don't like electronic engines but the gizmos the electronic engines uses are on the money no guess work,plus you never see a big swing in fuel mileage like Richard a 50,000 lb bus 45 ft long all of them will be in 7 mpg range
Nothing had a fuel gauge back in antiquity.
What for?
Truck or bus, you filled it up daily. Another gizmo that doesn't last the life of the vehicle, inconsistent between vehicles, you can't trust 'em in a slip seat operation, and contributes NOTHING to the profitability of the vehicle.
The grizzled veterans of the road used to say, the only people who run out of fuel are people WITH fuel gauges...
I hope all you trusting souls do a daily walk around that involves a knee on the ground looking for escaped fluids???
Perforating aluminum fuel tanks and all that...
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Everything had a fuel gauge back then it was called a stick or a hose,some drivers were creative with the sticks with the marking
I did not have a fuel gauge up until a couple of years ago. I would look to fill up at about 500 miles, which I figured was a bit more the half empty. Now that I do have a gauge, I fill up when it tells me it is about half empty, which is about 500 miles. Anyway, I like that added information the gauge provides since I only have a hubometer, which my wife refuses to read while we're traveling. All the wiring for the fuel gauge was already in place from the factory and only needed the parts to complete.
If you tie a rope to her waist and attach it securely inside the coach, she can lean out the door and read it going down the road. You may need to slow down a little so she can get all the numbers.
Quote from: chessie4905 on August 12, 2018, 10:09:59 AM
If you tie a rope to her waist and attach it securely inside the coach, she can lean out the door and read it going down the road. You may need to slow down a little so she can get all the numbers.
If you attach the rope at her CoG (let's not get into any discussion exactly where it is), she could spin freely at the same speed as the wheel, and that definitely makes it easier to read the hubometer at speed. However, you may still need to attach some balance weights to her to prevent shimmying and instability.
John
Don't know why you need all those gages, lights, switches and stuff anyway, doesn't make it run any better. Just fill up once a day and drive the same speed as traffic. I used to have a bike, just had a key to turn it on and off. That was it. Wasn't ever a problem. Course it did have a tank reserve.
Jim
Quote from: Iceni John on August 12, 2018, 01:39:59 PM
If you attach the rope at her CoG (let's not get into any discussion exactly where it is), she could spin freely at the same speed as the wheel, and that definitely makes it easier to read the hubometer at speed. However, you may still need to attach some balance weights to her to prevent shimmying and instability.
John
That is just the kind of image my warped mind would come up with, a spinning wife on a rope. Of course, you would have to have a Jib Crane attached to the side of the bus for it to work. But then, does the center part of the hubometer rotate? You need a wife on a rope to verify that, or one that runs fast while stooped down. :o
I was thinkin' the old lady could just hang out the window and dip the tank with her cane....
Quote from: Iceni John on August 12, 2018, 01:39:59 PM
If you attach the rope at her CoG (let's not get into any discussion exactly where it is), she could spin freely at the same speed as the wheel, and that definitely makes it easier to read the hubometer at speed. However, you may still need to attach some balance weights to her to prevent shimmying and instability.
John
Just string together some balancing beads and tell her they're Perls.
Quote from: chessie4905 on August 12, 2018, 10:09:59 AM
If you tie a rope to her waist and attach it securely inside the coach, she can lean out the door and read it going down the road. You may need to slow down a little so she can get all the numbers.
That's a lot of leaning, the hub meters mount on the inside of the rear drivers. Come on guys, you need a fuel gauge!
Still don't get it...drive a full day, then fill up as we leave the freeway and head to the stopping point for the night. Or, fill up during our lunch break. Or, fill up when we start the day. With the range that our tank allows, I can't imagine a time when we'd ever push the limit. And if we had to push the limit, it really wouldn't matter if we had a gauge since few are accurate to the last drop.
Ok, have her hang out rear window to read it. The one on my Brill was on front wheel. The housing was solid brass or bronze.
The hubometer is on the rear curbside. Do you think that holding a selfie stick out the bedroom window would work?
I like the wife on the rope better. You might drop a phone while taking a picture on a selfie stick. Not Good.
Once 1/2 way through Western Canada going North, to travel on the full side of a 1/2 tank of fuel is just good ole' common sense...
By the way, Aside from my garden sprayer, I have one of these. I would think that it would take a lot of pumping to work, but I thought it could be a good backup for the price.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2447-010-033-2447010033-Diesel-Primer-Hand-Pump-For-Bosch-Style-applications/162971810499?epid=27017357154&hash=item25f1e07ac3:g:miIAAOSwAghavahj
Quote from: Lin on August 13, 2018, 12:00:30 PM
By the way, Aside from my garden sprayer, I have one of these. I would think that it would take a lot of pumping to work, but I thought it could be a good backup for the price.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2447-010-033-2447010033-Diesel-Primer-Hand-Pump-For-Bosch-Style-applications/162971810499?epid=27017357154&hash=item25f1e07ac3:g:miIAAOSwAghavahj
That contraption would take forever!
Kinda reminds me of ...
https://youtu.be/dWNCFuZJqws (https://youtu.be/dWNCFuZJqws)