As far as I can tell my engine is fine, that's not the issue.
The issue is my temp and oil pressure gauge has stopped working, along with my air door lock, parking brake appears to work but light does not come on. This all happened 2-3 miles from Wall,SD, all of a sudden I heard the door unlatch , and looked down and my temp looked high again. So I pulled off at Wall and read it with the IR gun, 185 or so.... Huh. I'm assuming my temp sending unit is gone. But why is my the other issues?
Any ideas?
7636393584 would gladly take a call from someone who has an idea on what's going on. Or post here, i'll turn my email notifications on.
Ok, quick update, while typing the last post I had the engine off, I just fired it up for fun (why not right?) And everything came back to life... Then I shut it off once again after it built more air and it went back to as I described above.
Is the alternator charging ? a bad regulator or charging relay will cause that among other things in the circuit like a bad fuse or breaker
yes I'm getting power from alternator.
On the dash when I start up. It's like nothing sees the master switch getting power, but it does still start. No beeping nothing.
I checked the breakers in bay 6 (front driver)
I'm staring at the driver's electrical panels hoping something looks like it needs replacing.
It's probably a breaker getting weak they will reset after a few minutes of no use then go off again under use.It should be wired to go from the master switch to the breaker bus bar back to the dash
Ok, so far so good now, it occurred to me that I might have a bad battery connection on my 12v supply.
I had a similar issue on my 24v post going to my house batteries.
I cleaned off the 12v line , reattached and it came back to life when I started the engine.
Going to put some miles down and see what happens.
5-10 Miles down the road, same thing.
Any ideas what relay it could be?
Try probing relay and connection temps with your ir gun. Maybe you'll find it.
Quote from: chessie4905 on July 16, 2018, 06:40:55 PM
Try probing relay and connection temps with your ir gun. Maybe you'll find it.
if it does it in 6-8 minutes running it should do it sitting
most relays/breakers can be heard resetting....
Another symptom is no brake lights. As night fall approaches I think we're stuck here.
Headlights work though.
Found 1 hot relay, the driver's defrost.
I tried bridging the master switch breaker, that didn't change anything.
Could anything in the back end do it? The panels there?
Neo,
Based on your fix last time, maybe other electrical connections are corroded and intermittently failing.
I've been checking what I can. The panel outside the drivers window is clean, no rust, no nothing. Still has the red finish on everything, looks almost new.
In the morning I'll call a few bus shops I guess. I'll be checking this often, so if you have any ideas keep posting. Hoping to get us all home in one piece.
In the mean time I'm pouring over the electrical and air system manuals.
Well, I "might have it" .
Turns out when I looked at the wiring in the driver's wiring panel, I was looking at the connections, not the bare wires where a mouse got in.
I found 1 black wire (there are 100s in there) that was broken. I brought my wiring tools so I fixed it up proper. Or I'm just lucky again. Gonna button things up and hit the road here in a few.
it could be a bad ground in the outside panel under the drivers side window ?
good luck
dave
When I bought my bus there were quite a few random wires cut or broken from previous owners. It took me a while to figure out where they were going and what they were for. The manual is very helpful with that. Many of the wires are coded which makes it easier.
I once had a problem that turned out to be an intermittent failure of the master switch.
Well, we made it home safe and sound.
Thanks everyone.
Quote from: GnarlyBus on July 17, 2018, 10:32:22 AM
When I bought my bus there were quite a few random wires cut or broken from previous owners. It took me a while to figure out where they were going and what they were for. The manual is very helpful with that. Many of the wires are coded which makes it easier.
Don't know if it's the same in an MCI as our GM, but we have lots of cut wires wrapped in electrical tape both front and rear. I spent many hours trying to figure out what the PO had done. Finally realized that GM included many of these 'cut' wires from the factory and labeled them as spares in the wiring diagram. They will come in handy in future projects.