Is there a resource for identifying wheel bearings and seals,
and tie rod ends short of calling MCI with the vin and asking
them for the info? Will they help?
Or does anyone just know and be willing to help?
I'd like to have parts on hand before tearing into it.
Trucks(my wheelhouse) are nearly universal on bearings and
seals for the last 30+ years.
I have catalogs, but nothing for my bus.
Thanks
Do you have oil or greased front hubs? Makes a difference on the seal used.Also some coaches used grease at rear hub bearings. There was a seal that rode on outer end of axle stub, keeping differential oil from mixing with tne bearing grease in rear hubs. GMC used them, don't know about MCI's.
Im assuming oil since it has the stemco caps with the sight glass and plug..Im hesitant to pop that plug out of there since they tend to become pretty brittle with age, and these look pretty old.
I plan to change all the bearings and races since I have no idea how long theyve been going, and chexk out the brakes and drums. My company has a brake reline shop so shoes shouldnt be an issue, hoping all the drums are still readily available. We sell Webb drums also...Hopefully can save some money buying parts @wholesale
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When you pull one just take the numbers MCI is Mertior/Rockwell off the self stuff 1/2 the price of MCI
Keep this number 856-794-3104 he stocks a lot of MCI bus parts (Luke)
Closely inspect bearings when you remove them. If they aren't brineled pitted or spalled, they can be reused. Clean and closely inspect the inner race behind the rollers and cage for defects. Ive seen good rollers and big pits in that race. Stemco sells replacement rubber plugs. Replace them while you are at it.
Thanks for the phone #.
When you say off the shelf meritor do you mean common stuff or oddball ? Im a meritor distributor and if its halfway common I probably have them on my shelf(wholesale).
Just cant find any application guide for mci. Would like to know before pulling one since my shop isnt big enough to get the entire bus in. Cant have it halfway in with a hub off waiting for parts..
I'll likely replace the whole window on the oiler caps..theyre so old cant see thru the window,
Thanks again for the help
Might not be that costly just to replace the whole cap assembly. If it was me, I pull a hub and get the bearing and seal numbers off what you have. That way you can also get the proper socket to quickly remove wheel nuts instead of punch and hammer. Also gives you a chance to see what else needs service. Don't forget to check condition of kingpins.
Thanks Chessie--I probably will since all the caps have been painted white at least a couple of times, but cost-wise? window kit about 4 bucks my cost, these old oiler caps, probably 25 to 35..
Don't know if the same as my 5C but this is for that size 3.60"
The Stemco window that measures roughly 3.60" The repair kit is 359-5912 The complete replacement hub cap seal assy is part number 343-4249.. FYI, the RED plug is part number 359-5915
Stemco should have a wheel seal kit also. Don't have the number but NAPA will have a wheel seal and bearing, race etc if needed.
Quote from: OKIE9ERS on June 22, 2018, 09:18:52 AM
Thanks Chessie--I probably will since all the caps have been painted white at least a couple of times, but cost-wise? window kit about 4 bucks my cost, these old oiler caps, probably 25 to 35..
Includes plugs ?
I'll take 4.
Free shipping for members ?
4 bucks, wd cost, ..
Turns out mine dont have windows after all, CR brand with just the plugs, got 4 stemco replacements coming. Not the 4249..
If inside the hub is as odd as this cap I may be ordering in bearings/seals...hoping not
Includes plugs ?
I'll take 4.
Free shipping for members ?
hmmm. must be ignored, best check my profile again...
4 bucks..sure man, but you gonna have to pay the freight..tough call for me though because youve been so nice, but sorry, not gonna lose money on the deal..
Dont really get the attitude eagle...you took issue with my comments about fuel treatments in today's trucks..these trucks need it, my customers are furious if we run out, many change fuel filters weekly. Luvrbus took the time to explain the difference in my 81 and todays trucks. I didnt know, thats why I asked. Thanks again, Luvrbus..
Then Im talking with chessie about my options for hub oilers.
I sell truck parts.
I can buy at cost.
Im glad.
Apparently you have an issue with that too.??
Ive had my bus since Monday---so excited---one downer issue all week, guess what that was "hero" eagle
Quote from: OKIE9ERS on June 22, 2018, 08:10:41 PM... about fuel treatments in today's trucks..these trucks need it, my customers are furious if we run out, ...
I've never driven a truck but I have almost 500K miles on VW TDIs. My first TDI had "Power Service" in every tank. It ran like a charm for 129K miles until a drunk totalled it. I replaced it with a similar used model with 109K miles. The replacement was "off lease" -- it had never had any service, no fuel treatments, anything (there was a birds nest in the cabin filter) -- and sorry to be sexist but when I saw the groove under the brake pedal worn in the carpet from a high-heeled shoe, I shoulda known better than to buy it. Even with Power Service, I immediately noticed a very slight "stutter" on downhills where you have to take your foot entirely off the accel pedal. That stutter got worse and within 50K miles. it got a lumpy idle and finally wouldn't idle at red lights at all. Diagnosis - worn "wobble plate" and metering mechanism in the fuel pump (Bosch VE type). After a full rebuild - $1400 - back on the road.
Then we got Ultra-Low-Sulfur fuel. Bosch put in a directive to the ASTM committee that their fuel pumps needed fuel with 480 rating on the scar wear test -- the petroleum companies said they would make more money with a 560 rating (the lower the number rating for the fuel, the more protection). The standard was set at 560. So, in the 10 or so years since ULSD fuel, I've run Power Service. For 300K on the rebuilt pump, I've never had a hickup.
I know that the petroleum companies have our best interests at heart and will do everything to make our products perfect. Yeah, I know that. ::) But try to get me to run a tank of fuel without additive. Stick a gun to my head and try it. Go ahead.
(Re: Oil treatments. My TDIs have had Delvac full-synthetic 5W-40 Mobil "1" oil every 10 - 12K miles for every oil change I've done. (Dunno what oil was put in my "new" '03 when it was on-lease; my guess is cheapest SHoneT possible.) I took the oil pan off to change to chain drive on the oil pump - just "because" - at 350K miles. I drained the pan and wiped it with a shop rag. I would have been happy to have eaten my supper out of that oil pan. At the last timing belt change (460K miles on the engine), you could still see the factory grinding pattern on the camshaft. I'm convinced I don't need oil treatment.)
Quote from: OKIE9ERS on June 22, 2018, 08:10:41 PM
Dont really get the attitude eagle...you took issue with my comments about fuel treatments in today's trucks..these trucks need it, my customers are furious if we run out, many change fuel filters weekly. Luvrbus took the time to explain the difference in my 81 and todays trucks. I didnt know, thats why I asked. Thanks again, Luvrbus..
Then Im talking with chessie about my options for hub oilers.
I sell truck parts.
I can buy at cost.
Im glad.
Apparently you have an issue with that too.??
Ive had my bus since Monday---so excited---one downer issue all week, guess what that was "hero" eagle
thin skin ?
I thought telling the cost was an offer, after all you sell stuff.
I just figured if you sold additives you'd know where to put them.
PS. you said you are a Meritor distributor and I found it odd you need advice ordering Meritor parts.
My first question in the this thread was if anyone knew how to identify the bearings and seals in my bus.
I am a distributor for Meritor, Timken, Federal Mogul(National seals, among other things), Stemco,Webb, Con-Met, Firestone, to name a few, and all of which make parts for my bus, but none of which offer an application guide for my bus. So yes, I need some help. Being an aftermarket distributor, some dealers refuse to help us with identification. They want the end user to come to them for parts. The aftermarket is the enemy of oe.
I'm not above calling mci for help. I also asked, "will they help?"
Maybe I am thin skinned. I treat people, customers, and suppliers, and new aquantences, with respect. I learned a long time ago that I dont know everything. I thought this forum was a place to aske questions, and learn. Everyone else who replied seemed intent on helping. You, on the other hand, were critical of me even asking the questions, or of me sharing a price for something...
Thank you again, everyone who helped me, and again, eagle, Im sorry for taking up your time.
Don't worry about the lubrication oil or fuel on a 2 stroke,the primary fuel for those were No.1 fuel for years you can probably see that on the tank. No 1 fuel is basically kerosene not much in kerosene and they did fine for many years using No 1 fuel
Quote from: OKIE9ERS on June 24, 2018, 07:02:48 AM
Thank you again, everyone who helped me, and again, eagle, Im sorry for taking up your time.
I would have thought the ISI or IBI would have that info.
http://www.interchangeinc.com/seals.html (http://www.interchangeinc.com/seals.html)
http://www.interchangeinc.com/bearings.html (http://www.interchangeinc.com/bearings.html)
https://www.partscrossreference.com/default
(https://www.partscrossreference.com/default)
When I was in the biz, I had these.
Thank you...interchange isnt the issue though, bearing numbers are industry standard, timken, bca, f/m, stemco, aĺl use same #s, ie; HM218248.
I was hoping to identify and have on hand before pulling the hub off.
Crawling around underneath this weekend, everything looks weird. The drums, the shoes(bolt on linings). The massive torque rods. I dont think there's anything like this being used today.
Thank you sir
One way or another this information cost. Someone has access to part numbers and if need be as you probably know being you sell parts. Walking back and pulling the part, or re-packaged part to visually see the bearing number.
Like I said its a pain, I totally understand so finding a parts tech person to cut the red tape is what you need. Another problem nomatter what, equipment is different, and so are parts techs that know well, that eqp. type.
Sometimes the next vehicle in the shop will be tore down in common form for simple stuff and low and behold the parts wont work because an update, so it sits in the way! When the tough one later found out was a breeze, thats the way it typically rolls.
Have a good day
Floyd