Sorry if this is addressed elsewhere on here...Ive read posts for hours and havent seen..
Is straight 40wt still the best for my 8v-71?
Not real common in the trucking industry, where my experience is...
And, in my business, people swear by Lucas oil treatment, as well as fuel treatment..MCI, in a '89 manual that came with my 81, says not to add anything to oil or fuel...Opinions??
Thanks
GM has always held that oil and fuel additives are not necessary and a unnecessary additional expense. They've held that opinion for years.
Two cycle Detroit Diesels call for a specific 40 weight oil. No other oil is approved, except for 30 weight in cold ambient temperature operation.
A good brand of straight 40W no additives in the fuel unless you need one for gelling and the 8v71 will serve you well if you are not in a hurry power houses they are not but dependable with a little TLC
Quote from: OKIE9ERS on June 20, 2018, 05:17:50 PM
Sorry if this is addressed elsewhere on here...Ive read posts for hours and havent seen..
Is straight 40wt still the best for my 8v-71?
manual , says not to add anything to oil or fuel...Opinions??
Thanks
40 wt. it's a two stroke. 40wt is still the best,except in the Arctic, then 30 wt.
10 wt oil to the fuel if it's dry...2 quarts to a tank.
Those guys that wrote the manual were pretty smart, imo.
Thanks so much guys...
I get it on the 40 wt...
Again my experience is with trucks, and with the different qualities of diesel you might come across, still no cetane boost or injector cleaner? Algae has also become a problem in trucking, and I sell stuff for that as well. Algae comes from water, and the treatment reomoves the water before the algae can happen...Customers regulary add these things to hopefully head off a problem before it happens...Bio diesel didnt help things either..
I just want to feed this old girl the best I can to get the most out of her...
Thanks again!!!
Actually, 15w-40 is (or was) approved for low temperature operation of our beloved 2-strokes. I have it in a published DDA document.
" and I sell stuff for that as well". Do you sell Amsoil products?
I don't know best--that's why I'm asking..I do know that a lot of the diesel dumped into tanks leaves a lot to be desired..
And I know that there are products that can help with that. I guess I'm just wondering why bad diesel effects trucks but not buses?
It didn't take long for this to turn crappy
Sorry to have taken up your time
Two totally different fuel injection systems Okie,the fuel system on a 2 stroke was made using a yard stick compared to the newer high pressure common rail systems of today
Quote from: OKIE9ERS on June 20, 2018, 08:13:02 PM
I don't know best--that's why I'm asking..I do know that a lot of the diesel dumped into tanks leaves a lot to be desired..
And I know that there are products that can help with that. I guess I'm just wondering why bad diesel effects trucks but not buses?
It didn't take long for this to turn crappy
Sorry to have taken up your time
Otto designed them around peanut oil.
Quote from: luvrbus on June 20, 2018, 08:31:55 PM
Two totally different fuel injection systems Okie,the fuel system on a 2 stroke was made using a yard stick compared to the newer high pressure common rail systems of today
Hey Clifford are they still putting the CF2 on the straight weight jugs?
I wouldn't know, don't have to buy the stuff any more. ;D ;D
I grew up with those constant STP ads on radio and TV for both gasoline and oil treatment versions. This was in the 70's but once I got my own car, I was told that such products were increasingly not needed since STP and others like them were from a time where fuel and oil were often of various quality.
Fast forward to today where 100% synthetic oil regardless of weight classification is better than conventional with the additives. As for fuel, some would contend that at least gasoline, you may need some different additives because of reformulation but diesel is fine for the most part.
In all my years I have never saw Algae in a bus fuel tank,the last I knew Algae was a plant that required sunlight to grow.We would cover a pond with black plastic to kill Algae on the farm we would get crap in the fuel tank on the boat but it wasn't Algae
Wouldn't a truck with external tanks be much more susceptible to algae than a bus with internal tanks? The sun beating on the tank will keep the fuel warmer, causing increase in growth. Not all algae require sunlight.
Quote from: richard5933 on June 21, 2018, 06:23:17 AM
Wouldn't a truck with external tanks be much more susceptible to algae than a bus with internal tanks? The sun beating on the tank will keep the fuel warmer, causing increase in growth. Not all algae require sunlight.
Algae needs nitrogen to grow where does it come from inside a fuel tank ? now a Fungus growth I can see
Snake oil, save yer ca$h.
As noted, 40 wt, low ash, CF2, which is an old rating, some may not print the rating on the bottle, even if it meets/exceeds the rating. New oils are al low ash, ash is bad for the DPF in new equipment.
Exception to every rule: anti-gel may be considered for real winter conditions.
If the fuel tank has developed growth, the fix is to have it cleaned properly. Killing bugs alone, then their residue/bodies plug the fuel filters. Over and over... destroying your reliability.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
I try to put 16 oz of lucas when i fuel up.
Thanks luvrbus--that makes sense about the old injection system vs today's.
No Amsoil products chessie, mainly Lucas, Howes, Power Service, and FPPF is the algaecide people..
Snake oil salesman am I Warrior? lol... You know, I'm no mechanic, but I've learned a lot from my customers over the last 17 years managing a heavy duty truck/trailer parts store in western Okla. It seems not much of that is going to help me much with my 81 mc-9, which Ive had in my possession now roughly 72 hours.
I'm anxious to service it, it's been sitting for over a year and I was concerned, apparently needlessly, about the 1/4 tank of diesel I drove home on.
Thank you everyone for the input---cant wait to get started on this.
Until next time!!!
You know what they say about a dealer sampling their own product... LOL!
Someone has to take the others' ca$h, might as well be you?
With the billions of dollars of capital at stake, the engine manufacturers and the fuel and oil companies would not be leaving anything out, if it was going to help an engine improve its profit making abilities.
Best thing a bunut can do, is run the coach regularly. Sitting makes way more trouble than any other item of discussion.
Fill 'r up, and down the road!
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Generally, its better to keep tank topped off to ward off condensation in fuel tank. Stanadyne used to or still does sell a biocide to kill the bacteria growth in fuel tanks. Many of the products sold today only remove moisture. Check label carefully. We had to add this in the 80's to the Olds diesels to stop the black slime growth on the in tank screens. The stuff worked well.
Well you guys were right about one thing..this ol 8v71 isnt picky about the fuel she burns..
Just changed fuel filters...black goo sitting at the mouth of the primary, still purring like a kitten...a large, loud kitten
Thats tar and bug guts from the diesel and the diesel eating away at the inside of old rubber hoses.
I hate to think how long them filters been on there
Whats real fun is to take a chisel and make a hole in it then cut it open and see all the different crude inside it. ;D
You can get this from fuel fillups that don't have a fuel contaminent prevention program.
Here is some info: https://www.bellperformance.com/bell-performs-blog/recognizing-diesel-fuel-algae
Fppf and Stabil, among others sell fuel treatment. Look for the term "biocide" on container. Stabil is available at tractor supply.
If the fuel treatment container doesn't have the term biocide, it is mainly used to remove moisture from fuel.
Biocide shouldn't be used regularily, but at least once or twice to kill the bacteria. Then you can use a fuel treatment as you see fit. Keeping fuel tank full will help to minimize moisture entering fuel due to condensation. Especially when not being used for long periods in warm to hot weather.
Biocide is available at most auto parts stores and Walmart, however it may need to be ordered in. I'd try Tractor Supply or Napa first. You can order from Amazon, but more expensive.
Thanks chessie, I actually keep several fppf products on the shelf..their biocide they call Killem...they also add lubricity to the fuel with all their products, something that has been removed with some of today's diesel, apparently..
But...
You have to get the resulting black trash out.
Depending on contamination, you could be changing fuel filters by the mile. Picture the surface area of the tank bottom, compared to the size of a fuel filter.
For the newbie, plugged fuel filters means engine doesn't run right, eventually won't run at all.
And when you think you have it cleaned up, the next washboard road you bounce over liberates another cloud of gook...
The boat peeps suck it up and get the tank cleaned, it is harder to pull to the side ofthe road in a boat...
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Anybody with a 30 plus year coach should remove and clean their tanks. Most won't. I've done both our GMC's. The layer of crud will suprise you.