Well - I was all excited to get the bus all put back together tonight after replacing the radius rod bushings, BUT as I was crawling on my back I noticed a lower break pad was cracked and broke on a corner. A short investigation reveled the break shoe was worn out and not supporting the pad properly causing it to break apart.
I picked up a shoe today and was all ready to quickly replace it, BUT I cannot get the darn pivot pins out. I hammered away on them for a solid two hours tonight, and not so much as a .001 movement.
Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone had this same problem; if so, how did you resolve?
SolarDude
Rent or buy a ball joint replacement tool (one that is also rated to do brake pins) rdw
Oh - I hadn't thought about the pins being pressed in.. From the design of the retainer, I thought the pins "floated" in the bore?
If i need to use a pin press I will have to remove the hub - that sucks!
Hopefully someone that has done the job already will have some insight.
SD
Takes a brake pin press most of the time looks like a heavy duty C clamp
Spitting peas takes a big hammer.
I think you didn't unsrew the pin far enough and you left some threads connected, so all your hammer pounding just mushroomed the pin. Time to drill.
Quote from: luvrbus on May 16, 2018, 06:36:29 PM
Takes a brake pin press most of the time looks like a heavy duty C clamp
luvrbus do you have a recommended tool? I looked briefly, the ones I see are made for semi breaks, I don't want to buy the wrong tool.
Geoff - I can't say yet for sure, but I don't think the pins have threads, the pins were secured with a plate in a slot on the pins.
I don't usually just go hammering on things, I used a copper drift and a brass one.. so no mushrooming yet.. It may come to that though.
I too thought if worse comes to worse, I could drill it out.
I am surprised MCI made these pins so that the hub has to come off to pull them out... PITA.
SD
"the pins were secured with a plate in a slot on the pins."
The pins in our 4104 look exactly the same but they're NOT pressed fit, they were just rusted in. on the opposite end of the pins you have pictured are "keepers" that are held in place by a small bolt - as in your quote above. I don't think the pins are pressed if you're saying there is a keeper plate in a slot in the pin. They are just rusted (cold welded) in place. I got mine loosened but it took time & perseverance. Rust buster (PB Blaster) for days, heat (just burnzomatic) not enough to harm the metal. An impact hammer and a large wrench on the flats on each side of the grease zurk threaded hole (as in your photos) It seemed like a slow moving nightmare but after days I started getting a fraction of movement & it increased ever so slowly until they finally surrendered to my stubbornness. In fact I reused the pins and did a 15,000 mile trip since then & recheck them periodically to make certain they are still free to move. Good luck, been there done that... I've attached my set up - you can see the "keeper" plate that secures the pair of pins on the left side. Keep us posted on your progress.
Forgot to mention there are no threads on the pins and they DO float in all the bores & holes thus the reason for the bolted "keeper"
My MCI has the same keepers but are pressed in just like a truck cost me $249.00 for the press to remove them a real pita ,I don't know if the C floats or are pressed in MCI did some weird S***
Sometimes we have to get the shorty handled 4lb sledge. This along with the 1" x 18" long hard bronze drift.
Good luck
Floyd
Is it just me or do others think that when working on a broken Brake pad or replacing one that you should remove the hub and check all other parts. I pulled one once and it was missing the return spring and a pad bolt. Just saying.
Getting in a hurry can come to a sudden stop!
Yes if you haven't done it in a while, taking the entire wheel assembly down to the hub, taking the bearings off and inspecting, and replacing the oil seals is always good. Good Luck, TomC
I don't ever reuse the old hardware you can buy the kits that comes with new springs,pins and keepers
Trucks use roller pins with the shoes having a half circle to mount to the anchor pins. I admit I never have replaced pins like buses use. However, I had a similar situation with some rusted pins that held hydraulic Rams on a big fork lift. It took me a couple of hours apiece to pound each one out. I think I finally got my cutting torch out and burned them out through the center after drilling a hole in the middle. After burning most of the pin out, I was able to pound the rest out.
All the friggin bus models are different a VanHool ate my lunch and dinner
And in this instance "Never Seize" can be a good thing. Liberally lube the anchor pins with it and the bore of the spider before re-assembly. It may not help in 20 years but it sure will in 10.
Quote from: Jim Eh. on May 17, 2018, 10:38:42 AM
And in this instance "Never Seize" can be a good thing. Liberally lube the anchor pins with it and the bore of the spider before re-assembly. It may not help in 20 years but it sure will in 10.
Long live Never Seize best stuff around
It is not a never seeze problem,it is a grease problem. Not enough Grease . Grease your brake anker pins and camshaft regulary. It will never hapened again.
I found with the best bushing drivers, including some that are custom made. The fit of the different types of anchor pins or rollers need a good fit. This check after bushing replacement I think needs to be a dry fit check. A nice tool to touch up this job, I have relied on is a brake cyl. hone.
I like the anti sieze product, and a little dab will do ya. Just speaking about it I got some on me :D
Good day
Floyd
Murphy strikes again! I had to remove the hub to use the Pin Press, and just to reinforce Dave5C & TomC, the hub had been packed with grease, the axel nut was not properly snugged, AND the race was pitted. I did not clean up the bearing yet, but I assume it is bad too. Well, at least that is the end of the rabbit hole for one wheel.
I checked the bearing prices.... holy cow. $90 for front bearing, $180 for back, not including races. The axel nut was in poor shape and lock washer was not serviceable anymore, so I'm sure that will be another Franklin too.
I suppose every wheel will be the same and need repair till I make my way all around the bus.. Someone recently mentioned that complaining about fuel prices were the least of the concerns when owning a bus... Case and Point.
For posterity pictures below are of the brake shoe anchor pins and the tool that removed them in 30 seconds, axel and spider. Amazing.
SD
I see I have a spelling error in the title, anyone know how to fix that?
SD
Quote from: solardude on May 17, 2018, 07:13:31 PM
I see I have a spelling error in the title, anyone know how to fix that?
SD
edit your first post...unless the time to has elapsed.
this one is corrected.
PS no one knew till now :)
Down in lower right of first post, click on "report to moderator" and ask 'em to do the edit you want.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
since you needed to "break them loose", title was appropriate...