Working on a bus is like changing a ballcock on a toilet. You end up tearing out the whole bathroom. I need to replace my miter box oil seals. Luke is finding the seals for me, I hope. He is looking.
While removing the u joint knuckle to release the miter box the race fell off the knuckle and the needle bearings fell out. I am missing about 3 of them as you can see in the picture. What now? Where do I go to find the part? What kind of place?
Grrr!!! It was going so good up to that.
David
David that U-joint Eagle used is a 1 ton Chevy U-joint Napa,AutoZone they all have it for 15 bucks,the seals are off the shelf also 4 to 5 bucks each,pop a seal take it to Napa those are not special except they leak ;D probably not the right number but SKF 24904 comes up in my head
Thanks Clifford,
That number googled as a non spring, lip seal. Luke is supposed to call me back tomorrow with some results. Anyone have an Eagle parts manual with the numbers?
In a followup, the miter box only had about 1 qt of oil. The dipstick has no index high or low mark, so that is why I decided to drain it even though is was somewhat golden in color. The eagle manual calls for 3 qts full mark. I put in 2.5 and noticed gear oil started to drip on the floor. After inspection all three sides are leaking.
I don't know how long it has been that low. I pressure washed the engine 6 months ago and have driven a couple of thousand miles since then and there was no gear oil slopped around the miter box which means it has been that low for at least that long, and at that level it does not leak. Therefore, can we run them with one quart safely? One quart keeps it below the seal line and no leaking.
There was no metal on the magnet drain plug when I drained it, so I am assuming no damage to the gears.
2.5 quarts was really high on the dipstick when I checked it, nearly to the top of the box.
The Eagle number I have for the shaft oil seal is 104-0730-517, and there are three of them. There is also a carrier lateral oil seal 104-0730-507, two. The Eagle numbers might not help much nowadays unless someone like Jefferson (gone) or Luke has a cross reference.
I used to hang on to one of different u-joint caps in case of losing a needle or two. There are more variety of needle diameter and length than you would think.The heavier duty u-joints use more smaller diameter needles vs standard u- joint of same size.
I forgot how much grease they hold I am thinking about a quart and 1/2 but never owned a Eagle with the 6v92 and the boxes are different than the v8's
The Eagle numbers I gave you are for the 6V92 box.
Quote from: DoubleEagle on May 10, 2018, 06:37:28 AM
The Eagle numbers I gave you are for the 6V92 box.
Thank you, I will give that to Luke if he comes up empty.
I am still wondering about the volume of oil. 3 quarts seems like too much to me. You would think it only needed enough oil to let the gears capture it and sling it around the inside of the box. It seems like if it is filled to the bottom of the seal ring in the case that would suffice.
David
Thank you Clifford,
Oreilly's had a u joint for a 2003 chevy one ton. part number MPJ 231 cost was $14.99
It was an exact fit
Luke just called. The seals are on the way.
I will post part numbers when invoice arrives. ;D
On the issue of the oil level, your dipstick should be marked, if it is not, it is broken off short, or a replacement from something else. I pulled the dipsticks on my 8V71 & 6V92, both are marked in different ways. The 6V92 looks like it is a die cast piece, it has a oil level line cast into the metal about 1/4" from the bottom. The shaft is 5" long from the tip to the beginning of the threads on the cap, which also acts as a vent. It screws into the top of the box. The 8V71 version looks similar to the 8V92 pictured in the manual. It sits in a riser tube up from the box and is solid metal with two notches on either side that are 1 1/2" from the tip. The blade is 6 1/2" long from the tip to the edge of the top cap. The Eagle part number for the 6V92 is 104-0730-531, and the 8V92 is 054-0730-027. Unfortunately, we can't call Eagle to get that part anymore, or Jefferson Bus & Truck. Depending on which type you have, you should be able to make one out of some other dipstick that is long enough to be cut down.
My dipstick is about 5" long but snaps down over a lip at the top of the dip tube, no screwing down available. The stick has no markings. When I put 2.5 qts oil in, it was almost to the top of the dipstik. I think 3 qts would almost make to the filler neck. That seems too full to me. When I checked the level before draining it was slightly above the bottom end of the stick. About 3/4 quart was drained to waste. My box has been running like this for several thousand miles. After I get the new seals in I will index the stick with "one qt", "two qt" and see how high it is on the stick.
Are any of you eagle guys running 3 qts in a 6v92 box??
David
Quote from: David Anderson on May 13, 2018, 02:48:44 PM
My dipstick is about 5" long but snaps down over a lip at the top of the dip tube, no screwing down available. The stick has no markings. When I put 2.5 qts oil in, it was almost to the top of the dipstik. I think 3 qts would almost make to the filler neck. That seems too full to me. When I checked the level before draining it was slightly above the bottom end of the stick. About 3/4 quart was drained to waste. My box has been running like this for several thousand miles. After I get the new seals in I will index the stick with "one qt", "two qt" and see how high it is on the stick.
Are any of you eagle guys running 3 qts in a 6v92 box??
David
I think there is a good chance that when you checked it with just a little showing on the stick, that was the correct level if the stick protrudes 5" from the top of the case. If the dipstick is resting in a riser that sticks up from the case, your level is probably too high. Maybe Eagle had more than one supplier for the 6V92 box, or you have a miter box that is from an eight cylinder (if that is possible). My 1984 6V92 definitely has a threaded cap with the dipstick attached. Maybe the original dipstick was lost and someone improvised. In any event, it looks like the oil level is about 4 3/4" below the top of the box. The listed capacity might be for a dry box, and when you drain it, not all of it comes out. I would go by the level, not the listed capacity. The seals can only handle so much. If you do not have the correct dipstick with the built-in vent, you will have to have one as a separate item like on 8V71 miters. An un-vented box will push oil past the seals sooner or later.
I removed the box and pulled one output cover. There was about 2oz of oil in the bottom. I do have a vent, but it is separate from the dipstick/fill. I inspected the oil ring and promptly broke a piece off when I pushed on it with a screwdriver. I'm waiting on the seals from Luke. I'm not sure about replacing the wear ring. It looks like the bearing has to be pulled to do it. I don't really want to mess with the bearings :o
Still not sure about oil quantity, though. I may use your suggestion and just go a bit above the bottom of the stick. It has been that way as long as I can remember and worked fine. 3 qts is way too much.
David
If you have a separate vent, it might not be a 6V92 box. The separate vent and riser for the dipstick were on earlier miter boxes, but who knows what went on with Eagle long ago, or what the previous owner did. What year is your Eagle? The early Model 10's had Model 05 components mixed in.
I would at least cover the lower third of the side shaft bearings. Or in another way I may fill oil up to the lower side of the shafts with the oil at full level. Or just enough to get the seal lubricated. Im not sure of your mounting of the box is it level. A photo would be a great addition here.
Good day
Floyd
It is a 1985 model 10 and the box is the same as depicted for a 6v92 in my shop manual. It is level on the bracket. Here is a picture of the shop manual page. It does not show the separate vent. Mine has a threaded hole in the top of the casting with a vent and cap on it.
David
I have a couple of 6v miter boxes that have vents and a stick
Your box is not the same as my 1984, and it does not match your manual page. Part number 19 is the same dipstick/vent that I have on the top plate. The dipstick arrangement and the vent are different than anything I have (out of three). Eagle did some inconsistent things at times. I would still say that 4 3/4" below the top plate would be a good oil level.
Thats a nice gearbox. I personally think all these darn boxes needed a long hyd hose with the vent attached and all this secured a foot high, somehow.
I notice in your gearbox's last photo the piping for the dip-stick/fill tube. It seems where the small plug is at the lower T fitting, is where the oil level is required. I believe this level is close to the shafts half / center point and is also typical level on the MC-9 box.
Its an opinion and like shoes, most people have some :)
Good day
Floyd
The City of Houston Eagles boxes with the 6v92 were all vented I have seen,I don't know if Houston did a a modification or what but they all have it sorta like the air intake deal on a City of Houston Eagle I guess.It should have a level plug to check the level with 3 qts is way to much,check around some boxes on the V8 had a bolt you removed on the shaft side flange for checking the level.
How much grease do you MCI guy use in your blower mitre box ?
David I found that sucker in my model 15 manual 1 qt
Quote from: luvrbus on May 16, 2018, 06:30:37 AM
David I found that sucker in my model 15 manual 1 qt
Thanks Clifford,
That seems appropriate to me ;) That will put it about 1/4" from the dipstick bottom like Double Eagle posted earlier in the thread. When I get this done I will make a correction in my manual.
BTW these things are heavy. I had to call a friend to help me lift it out of the cradle. :o, and I recommend gloves to avoid torn knuckles :'(
David
The parts came from Luke this afternoon. It was a head scratcher to figure a way to remove the wear ring. They are on there really tight. I had to cut it as far as I could with a dremel wheel then chisel it off. I used a 1.5" galvanized pipe nipple to drive them on. The seals went in pretty easy. I used RTV to seal it all up and tomorrow will put oil in it to make sure it doesn't leak. After that I will reinstall the couplers and put it back into the coach.
I filled to one quart and indexed the stick about 1" above the end of the tip. I also transferred that level to the bearing seal and it seemed a bit low.
I added another 1/2qt and indexed the stick then transferred the measurement to the bearing seal and it is about 1/8" below the seal, so it won't leak. That should be sufficient. I will reinstall the beast this afternoon.
I also put a label to remember the amounts.
David