I don't need any of the OTR heating parts, and I'm about to do a full deletion of the system (now that I have coolant out of the system). But I'm wondering, can I just cap the system at the two gate valves (which are both dead, inoperable) and be done with it?
Go for it
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Curious what the plan is for heat while driving as well as defrost function on the windshields.
Defrosting shouldnt be a big concern, as were mostly in the southwest. Not a lot of rain or moisture to be had. Its nothing some rain-x cant solve.
Quote from: brianzero on April 17, 2018, 12:03:11 PM
Defrosting shouldnt be a big concern, as were mostly in the southwest. Not a lot of rain or moisture to be had. Its nothing some rain-x cant solve.
Having lived in both the north and the south and having experienced severe windshield fogging in both parts of the country, I'd recommend you have a better plan than Rain-X to deal with the defrost situation. Whatever you're doing for heat inside while you drive, as long as you have living beings in the bus you'll have moisture. Given the right mixture of inside/outside differential you will have moisture on the inside of the windshield that can quickly become a hazardous situation. Better to have a plan ahead of time than be caught unaware.
Yes, you can isolate at the two big gate valves.
You can also cap it off at the supply and return of the big heat exchanger up front, thereby retaining the defroster circuit, if you change your mind. As you dig into it, you'll see the smaller lines heading off and back from the front.
There are lots of regional buses, converted for local conditions, with no plan to go further afield.
Lots of conversions with little or no AC up north...!
If you tear it all out, for re-sale or re-consideration, terminate at the gate valves in a way that someone can relatively easily re-attach something to re-establish a defroster circuit?
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
What I did was to remove the heating core (big-about 6ft by 18"), had it tested, then remounted it lengthwise inside my bus with my closets above. The heating core is powered by 2-14" 12v radiator fans through a 12v thermostat. I have a manual ball valve to cut it off during summer, and the defroster up front receives coolant all the time through another ball valve. Good Luck, TomC
Rain-X may be great on the outside but on the inside with sudden changes of temperature both inside and outside a windshield can become fogged very quickly. You really need to think about something inside to defrost/defog the windshield. Safety First.
I would just remove the main cabin heater core and cap those lines, and retain the driver heat and defrost. You'll be glad you did.
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Brian: just to help out a bit, I have started some of the same projects in the past few years. Although having to recall some requirements of vehicle abilites. I can share with ya just for your decisions, there is a requirement to have a defrost system as that bus ( or any truck vehicle )had in its manufacture. Im not trying to be an azz, just passin along the tip.
Have a great weekend
Floyd
mine had the otr heating and ac removed when converted. Fortunately, they left defroster heater and fans.
I removed all the M C I vents from above the floor and put 2 3 x 8 vents over the cold air returns in the back and 2 8 x 16 vent covers on the 2 large heat vents in the mid section . used the temp . pick up that was near the rear return vents and left the rest working and if you needed heat just turn on the bus heat from the dash and WOW ! it did not take long to heat you out of the coach . glad I had it as we had to travel in - 20 deg on a few trips
Dave
Jared, if you're reading this I'll throw my two cents in again too,
You guys that want to delete your OTR heating system are in my humble opinion making a mistake. Take it from the guy who has converted two coaches and had the OTR heat systems in both deleted. The first one I did myself. The second one I bought that way. You will at some point if you're serious about finishing your conversion and actually using it, hit some cold weather. Shoot, Texas got snow this year even in the rio grande valley. It's really hard to keep the living area of the coach warm without OTR heat. I have the dash heat in my bus and yes it will roast out the driver but if it's cold enough, it just can't keep the kitchen on back to the bedroom warm at all. I have to run serious electric heat to keep the peeps warm (like 4000 watts worth) while driving down the road. Do consider keeping it. Especially if and when you go to sell the coach, the new owners may not always be fair weather travelers and it's a selling point. That being said, definitely without a doubt keep your dash heat. It's your defogger and trust me you will get condensation at some point on the inside of your windshield glass even if you're in the Southwest. If you insist on removing the OTR heater core below the floor, then solder on caps for the entrance and exit tubing right at the heater core. This way you keep the defrost heat. You can close the gate valves if you so desire.
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On mine, they connected the front heater/ defroster lines to the original lines for the main heater core that was removed.
when I sold my M C I the new owner picked it up and it was - 17 out and he insisted to drive it to Thunder bay Ontario and when he got home it was -37 . I told him he was nuts but he said they drive in it every day
with out the bus heat and the pro heat system it would have been a very cold trip
I would keep it
Dave
Quote from: sledhead on April 24, 2018, 05:03:28 AMwhen I sold my M C I the new owner picked it up and it was - 17 out and he insisted to drive it to Thunder bay Ontario and when he got home it was -37 . I told him he was nuts but he said they drive in it every day ...
Just another pretty day in May up there in the GWN, eh, Dave?
My interest in other builds regards to the otr heater removal is needs.
Believe me I try to understand cold, and to me it is a real pain. With respect to all, I think a reduced otr core size, fan selection and most likely relocation is my interest. At the present 😁
Good day
Floyd
My coach has the front OTR in place, the rest of the coach is heated via a 100K Webasto blast furnance. Removing the oem otr heating throughout the coach seems acceptable with other heating means while driving and parked.
Heating while off-the-pole/boondocking is also a consideration. I believe Scott is electric only which adds another variable to the keeping warm equation. Like everything with these old buses, there is no one size fits all answers or solutions.
hey Bruce
some times I think we will have permafrost year round , but it was 42 deg f last night 1st time this year it was this warm over night
woo-hoo
can,t live with out heat and a/c in a coach
dave
Quote from: sledhead on April 25, 2018, 03:06:17 PMhey Bruce
some times I think we will have permafrost year round , but it was 42 deg f last night 1st time this year it was this warm over night
woo-hoo
can,t live with out heat and a/c in a coach
dave
Oh, yeah - my sympathies on the terrible heat wave that you're having to endure! :) (And I apologize for rankin' too much on Canadian weather there, eh? But I spent too many winters in Timmins to not feel a bit like I'm allowed to get back a little.)
Seriously, the big issue is "are we building living spaces or are we 'camping'". I think that most of us have families and responsibilities and that the only way to build is to incorporate systems that are safe and comfortable for our intended uses and worst-case situations that we are likely to get into. I cringe at some of the "it will be good enough" comments, but I guess we all do it our own way. But my way is going to be safe and comfortable (even though I plan to run well away from anything that reminds me of Timmins!)