I've now learned the hard way that my pedal sticks at about half - 3/4 depression. Under no load that's basically WOT; so not very exciting. The cable seems to actuate fine when released from the grease bar under the tire comp. I think something internal to the grease sleeve is causing this, like just a worn spot from highway driving. Where can i find a new linkage setup or any suggestions on how to repair this?
J
Stock linkage?
Like a religion, there are numerous cranks, pivots and sleeves...
You MUST find the lube fitting at each and every point of movement between your big toe and the engine governor, some 38 feet back there.
A partner to manipulate the throttle while you pump grease into each fitting to get it moving...
Pay wicked attention to where the rod enters and exits the tunnel, the hardest to see and reach, these were skipped by the paid help in the coach's previous working life, and by a lazy/ignorant previous owner.
Do not condemn the system, or make this more complicated until you get it greased and freed up.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Hi J, I just went thru this 2 weeks ago, pedal was sticking on deacceleration, on my 102C3, the cable was starting to fray, lubing did help that, but the custom end piece from MCI, which has a special shape screw bolt as part of the end connector to engine, was cracking and bending, which would have completely disconnected accelerator pedal from engine, lvmci...
You could change to an air throttle and no further problems. I know where there is one for a decent price.
Thnaks guys,
I'm leaning toward and air throttle, but I'm sure its not in my budget ATM. But feel free to shoot me some details.
I'll crawl under there and try to find any additional grease fittings, I thought I got them all but maybe I'm missing one. I plan to figure this out this week, so I can safely make an upcoming trip.
Jay
A stiffer return spring might help if lubing does not, but then your foot will long for an air throttle.
Just be careful if you decide to pull the cable out. I had a sticking throttle and pulled out the cable to clean/lubricate it. When I went to put it back in i hit a dead-end about 1/3 of the way in. Ended up that there was a fracture in the tube, and the ends of the broken tube were rubbing against the cable making it stick. When I pulled it all the way out, the broken ends of the tube collapsed into the tube, which kept the cable from going back in. Had to replace a few inches of the tube, then all was good.
If you can gain access to the tube housing the cable it would be a good idea to evaluate to be sure that it's intact. Also take a look to be sure that no screws (from flooring or furniture above, etc.) have penetrated the cable tube.
I contorted under the spare tire comp after work, made sure it had grease spewing, same problem. Unhooked the cable from the actuation arm, the arm moves great, all greased up.
The cable is hard to travel and must be the problem, I'm scared to go through the process, is the cable inside another tube? Like cable with sheathing inside a conduit-like tube? I'm guessing the only access is either from front or back of the bus?
The front is grey in color, the back is red until the firewall.
Hi, yes it's a hard plastic tube, similar to pex tubing, with aircraft style cable inside, runs over 38' front to back. They pulled the old one out, but attached the new one on the end and pulled it thru. MCI still had my accelerator cable, lvmci...
If you want an air throttle I know of one for $250 complete plus shipping. You can email me at retiredbusnut@yahoo.com if you want.
I'm going to assume the ending portion, aka the red tube in the rear must be the tube that runs the length of the bus.
Bill, I sent you an email, hopefully I can transition to a new style, I'll be sure to update with my experience and pictures. I have to imagine my right quad will at least thank me.
J
Hi, tried to put picture here of the specialty connector, that connects to the engine side, will put it on MCI busconversions on face book, lvmci...
Well I still sit with my problem of a malfunctioning cable. Is there a place I can source an air throttle to fix the bus? Does anyone else have an extra air throttle or know of one for sale? I suppose I will also take someone up on a new cable suggestion. I can't seem to find anything close to that length. Its now starting to get warm here and I sure would like to move our home around to sight see.
Thanks,
Jay
What diagnostics have you done so far? Any clue where/what the problem is with the cable?
Jay
I sent you an email about a new one. Call Luke at 1-888-262-2434. He has access a new one. Sorry about the other.
Thanks Bill, I sure appreciate your help in this matter.
I remove the cable from the engine and pedal assembly. The actual cable is just tough to pull, I'm starting to think the cable has a fray or maybe just old and dirty. I plan to make a small trip this weekend so I'll see if I can manage the pedal with some sort of strap to be able to pull it back if it sticks. I think i might pull the cable out and run a standard cable to follow with removal. I read someone sourced a Morse cable. I will do some calling around, I just can't afford to drop too much on the air throttle. I'll contact my local marine dealer to see if they have a similar boat throttle. I'll spam EBay for a used throttle, I will also call Luke just to meet him and get some verbal advice.
Jay
Your welcome Jay. Go to busnut.com as there has just been a discussion about the accelerator cable problem on there.
http://busnut.com/forum/index.php/topic,2520.0.html (http://busnut.com/forum/index.php/topic,2520.0.html)
I thought my accelerator cable (102A3) was starting to stick until some investigation showed me that it was the metal wall next to the pedal had come unattached and when I was driving (as opposed to manually pushing the pedal down to try to figure out what was sticking) it would push to the right and the pedal would stick a bit along the wall. I reattached the wall and luckily my problem was solved without any cable work.
Quote from: daveola on April 20, 2018, 03:51:35 PM
I thought my accelerator cable (102A3) was starting to stick until some investigation showed me that it was the metal wall next to the pedal had come unattached and when I was driving (as opposed to manually pushing the pedal down to try to figure out what was sticking) it would push to the right and the pedal would stick a bit along the wall. I reattached the wall and luckily my problem was solved without any cable work.
When I replaced all the flooring in the bus, I got real creative around the pedals with a scroll saw (entire driver's area for that matter) and when I pushed the fuel pedal down by hand, everything worked fine. First time I drove the bus after finishing the floor, the fuel pedal hung up. I realized after studying it for a bit that when you push with your foot you push slightly off to the side without realizing it. A little filing and some lube and haven't had a problem since.