I am needing some ideas of how to get stuck screws out so we can remove the side panels on the inside of our bus. They are screws so we can't use torque to get them out. Any other ideas of how to easily remove them?
Which screws are they?
I have used an old screwdriver and a hammer to try and loosen them, sprayed them with WD40 or even cut them off. Depends on if you need to put it back or just get it out...
I am not reusing any of my side panels so I cut with a angle grinder and then popped it off with a cold chisel and 3lb hammer.
I have welded a nut to the head of a stuck screw or bolt & then used a wrench to coax it out while still hot (sometimes weld a washer to the screw & then weld a nut to the washer). . . . If careful, there won't be any damage to the panel.
How about a Torque driver. Its a fat screw driver you hit with a hammer. Has different bits with it. ;D
I use this anymore.,..https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-lithium-cordless-14-in-hex-compact-impact-driver-kit-63380.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-lithium-cordless-14-in-hex-compact-impact-driver-kit-63380.html)
Ive tried them all. Hand impact driver, screwdriver and hammer, visegrips, adjustable wrench on phillips handle, penetrating oil etc,etc. had about 60 percent success. This has raised it to about 85 to 90. You need new quality phillips impact bits and hold firmly against screw head. The ones that strip out instead of coming loose, I remove with chisel, dremel with cutoff wheel, or if I dont want to damage surface, dremel with ball shaped carbide burr.
Btw, a worn phillips screwdriver or bit will cause stripout easier. I heard suggestions to use a dab of valve grinding compound in screw slot. The abrasive helps it to grip better, but will eventually wear phillips tip if used a lot.
Quote from: chessie4905 on March 23, 2018, 04:28:23 AM
I use this anymore.,..https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-lithium-cordless-14-in-hex-compact-impact-driver-kit-63380.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-lithium-cordless-14-in-hex-compact-impact-driver-kit-63380.html)
Ive tried them all. Hand impact driver, screwdriver and hammer, visegrips, adjustable wrench on phillips handle, penetrating oil etc,etc. had about 60 percent success. This has raised it to about 85 to 90. You need new quality phillips impact bits and hold firmly against screw head. The ones that strip out instead of coming loose, I remove with chisel, dremel with cutoff wheel, or if I dont want to damage surface, dremel with ball shaped carbide burr.
Btw, a worn phillips screwdriver or bit will cause stripout easier. I heard suggestions to use a dab of valve grinding compound in screw slot. The abrasive helps it to grip better, but will eventually wear phillips tip if used a lot.
The reviews seem mostly positive, this is quite an event for Harbor Freight, having a good inexpensive tool. ;D
I'm happy with mine. Pretty light and very good at driving and removing long drywall screws that frequently strip out just before seating or trying to remove wita a normal battery drill. The led light is nice also. Some like other brands because they are brushless, yellow, red, whatever. Found a $99.95 coupon for it.
I already had three Milwaukee fuel 18V batteries for my drill, sawzall etc so it was a no brainier to get the Milwaukee 18V fuel impact driver too for 99.00 ;D
Yes, but it isn't blue!😁
LoL nope John its not you funny guy you. ;D
I used to have all yellow but when they started going after 15 years and replacing batteries etc I started getting all Red. If I am still around in 20 years I will start on all Blue maybe, LOL :o
Dave5Cs
Sometimes, when I've run into a screw with a stripped out Phillips head slot, I could break it loose by twisting it clockwise, as if to tighten it, while tapping the screwdriver with a hammer, then backing it out. That's the technique we were taught to use on screws in aircraft cover panels back in the day. Worked well then, before the days before battery-powered impacts were available to us.
Dennis
For battery drills, I bought Makitas. Had two quit over fifteen years. Replaced one with another Makita that works well, but the damn chuck won't stay tight. Done with any more green. Newest one is the blue HF. We'll see how long it lasts. Like the li-ion battery. Light and longer lasting. No warning when battery needs charged, it just stops. I got some compatible magnetic sockets for it the other day for use when I don't want to hook up the air hose for lighter work.
I've settled on all my power hand tools being DeWalt 18V. My impact driver is quite good removing many screws that normally would have had to been drilled out.
The 5" disc sander (corded) is one of my favorites-I have 3 of them. And many of the battery powered. The only Milwaukee that I have is a corded angle drill. But-discussion of power tools could be a lengthy thread. Good Luck, TomC
Only Dewalt I have is the 12 inch miter saw. Bought it years ago. Has always worked great. Since I found out a few years later they are owned by Black and Decker, wont buy any more Dewalt. Besides, Yellow shows the dirt too easy.😬
For the screws that dont come out easily, just knock off the heads with a 4 inch disc grinder. After panel removal, the stump will remove easily with vicegrips. If you dont want to marr the panels for reinstallation plans, then I recently removed several phillip screws from wiring and plumbing chase on my 4905 above holding tanks, with a Dremel and 1/8 inch carbide ball shaped bit. Bored in phillips cross till heads came off, removed panel, and easily twisted out stubs.
If you EVER use carbide burrs for any kind of work, use good eye protection or face shield. Those burrs spit out micro slivers of metal. I go over myself with a magnet afterwards. Should have worn nitrile gloves also. Had a couple of micro slivers in hand that you couldn't see, but felt. Used bandaid and salve to pull them out.
Second the grinding. I used a 5 or 6 inch disc, seemed to work better.
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