I have read on these forums about a roof repair that uses the 3m tape instead of rivet's..
I have a good size 4x8 sheet of 5052.
Should i sand then clean and use tape?
Or pick up a riveter and some 5052 rivets.
Should I use as much of the sheet as I can and go roof edge to edge? or cover the hole by a couple ft?
What say you?
I'd use rivets, and not the pop rivet household type. I would only go past the hole an inch or two. Use a good sealant between metal patch and roof. If you have trouble getting good rivets, you could use stainless steel sheet metal screws. Put some sealant in each hole before installing each screw. Wipe off excess after screw is installed.
Chessie,
Thanks! Should I make the patch round?
What kind of sealant do you use?
Do I use sealant to set the panel before and after rivets?
No problem finding rivets, any certain size of rivet? and rivet spacing?
Thanks for your help!
George
It all depends on how invisible you want the repair?
Matching up rivet style and spacing to those around the repair site, extending the patch to tuck under the next seams, freshen up the roof paint in both directions so the "fresh" doesn't stand out?
The tapes have some advantages in appearance, may need some re-application at some future point?
Tough choices asthetically.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
I would use a caulk with a long warranty and impervious to water. Some of the silicone bathroom caulk look good. Make sure your rivets are sealing type. I would add a dab of each hole before installing each rivet. As far as spacing, probably about the same as other roof riveting or closer, but not less than one inch center to center. If the hole is round, the patch can be round, unless it is noticeable from the ground. Then you might want a square or rectangular one. A continuous bead on the outside perimeter of patch and a continuous bead on the inside edge of hole would provide a potential double seal and lessen leakage potential in future.
i sealed the destination window gasket, against the body, with OSI Quad in 2008.
in a driving rain at 60 mph is when it leaked. no more not a drop since.
later there was a leak that again only while driving, under the satellite dish base. i caulked around it (to busy to remove it) hasn't leaked since.
http://www.ositough.com/en/colored-caulk.html (http://www.ositough.com/en/colored-caulk.html)
http://www.ositough.com/en/products/view-all-products/window-sealant-window-caulking-quad-max.html (http://www.ositough.com/en/products/view-all-products/window-sealant-window-caulking-quad-max.html)
Thanks Warrior, Chessie and Eagle!
If the tape needed a re-application would that be a super pain to remove all of the 3m tape? I imagine it hardens like foam steel Or does it come off detach with some thinner type stuff?
The hole is dead center middle of roof, so no real worries about looking pretty.
Looks like part's book logs 33 seperate solid aluminum mushroom rivets, is there a rule for estimating the length of rivet?
On solid rivets you buck, there should be as much rivet thickness on the bucking end when done, to equal head thickness. Thickness of both pieces of metal, plus 3/16 to 1/4 inch.For exact, you can google the question, and also some rivet catalogs give that information in front pages. I bought my rivets from Blyler rivets. But they were shave head bulb tight with sealing o-ring. When done, they looked like a factory solid rivet. Used a Harbor Freight air operated rivet gun. These rivets were somewhat pricey and overkill for your job.
For a sealant I would like to throw my favorite in the hat. It even seems to be available at Wally World.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sika-Sikaflex-221-Multi-Purpose-Polyurethane-Sealant-Adhesive-10-3oz-300ml-Cartridge-White/804314343?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=6683&adid=22222222227145253176&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=253564727264&wl4=pla-418058508433&wl5=9001214&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=115057107&wl11=online&wl12=804314343&wl13=&veh=sem (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sika-Sikaflex-221-Multi-Purpose-Polyurethane-Sealant-Adhesive-10-3oz-300ml-Cartridge-White/804314343?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=6683&adid=22222222227145253176&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=253564727264&wl4=pla-418058508433&wl5=9001214&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=115057107&wl11=online&wl12=804314343&wl13=&veh=sem)
I would suggest a good mono bolt like ones from Avdel or equivalent
http://www.avdel-global.com/en/products/breakstem-fasteners/monoboltr.html (http://www.avdel-global.com/en/products/breakstem-fasteners/monoboltr.html)
I would not (like has been said) ever use the common "POP" brand pop rivets or sheet metal screws.
Buck rivets take a certain "feel" from both sides to do them correctly. Takes a bit of team practice.
What is the product's proper name?
Search for an MSDS for it?
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
When I got our bus it had 11 holes cut into the roof! I wanted the roof to look clean, like the original 4104. I cut 3/32" aluminum sheet 3" over the size of the hole. I power sanded both surfaces with 80 grit discs down to clean metal. I applied 3M 08115 Automotive Panel Adhesive to both surfaces, then used self-drilling sheet metal screws every 2" to secure the patch. Let it cure for 24 hers, then removed all the screws and filled the holes with the same adhesive. I also laid a bead of adhesive along the perimeter of each patch and feathered the edge out. My roof is painted with commercial aircraft paint - no sealant or rubberized stuff. Close inspection after four years revealed no cracks in the paint, no leaks. GM used to glue their pickup door hinges on with this stuff. Next best thing to welding (maybe better).
Sika has a number of products that would work for you
Jim, Gordie Niles,
Thanks for the tips!
Gordie is that the stuff with the mixing tip?
I have used that stuff before hmm...I'm thinking about your method with magnets on each side instead of drilling holes..
Going to sleep on it!