Greetings from central Oregon everyone,
Ive been noticing that it seems everyone takes the ducting out that runs the length of the bus front to back along the wall and the floor....Im planing on keeping the OVR heat and A/C system but all the ducting was removed....does anyone have this thats not been all bent up. I would be interested in it...if your from the west coast that would be a plus...can contact me here if you have this ...thanks Doug
I am a big fan of the stock coach heating system.
Working around the duct system in order to be able to heat the whole coach going down the road is easy motivation.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Please list your coach brand, year, and model on your personal info. At least the state you reside in would help too. We can help better this way.
The stock duct can be very dirty when you look into it, I removed mine and built all new duct as I did not need it in some locations so I added where needed. When building it keep in mind that the blowers are very powerful so size everything accordingly the feed and return. My returns are under the bathroom vanity and under the kitchen cabinets with an air filter to remove any dirt or dust that may accumulate. Make sure to filter the return, you don't want to clog up the coils which can be hard to clean.
Quote from: dj on February 15, 2018, 07:05:17 PM
Greetings from central Oregon everyone,
Ive been noticing that it seems everyone takes the ducting out that runs the length of the bus front to back along the wall and the floor....Im planing on keeping the OVR heat and A/C system but all the ducting was removed....does anyone have this thats not been all bent up. I would be interested in it...if your from the west coast that would be a plus...can contact me here if you have this ...thanks Doug
If it was removed, it probably didn't work.
I'm pretty sure he mentioned being in Central Oregon, brrrrr ;D
We not only maintained our original OTR heating and ducting, we installed a dual heat Excalibur LPG furnace on that same ducting system. It has two settings & automatic. When the thermostat senses more than 4 degrees lower room temp it goes to hi mode at 38,000 BTU otherwise it's on low @ 25,000 BTU and the fan speed follows it. Using the original ducting takes awhile longer to get the bus warmed throughout with even all around heating including some defroster blow on the side windows but after cycling off, it takes a lot longer for the temps to drop as the heat is deep under the house conversion. We love it and exceeded our expectations.Post war engineering was the best ever. IMHO.
Ok a bit more information...I have an1988 MCI 102A3 it was a Amtrak shuttle bus ran between Pheonix AZ, LA and San fran has less that 100k on it 8V92 auto I live in Central Oregon (Madras) have i partially converted lots to do so Ill be asking g a lot of questions. Im an aircraft mechanic by trade and according to my family thinks I can do anything..(god I hope their right).
So those of you that kept the ducts would you suggest I make them from scratch? was thinking .040 stainless maybe heavier or try to find factory ones. any thoughts? thanks again for the input.
Hey Geoff I know it works been using it just need to duct it where I want the heat to go
Some other busnut has them in a pile, removed from their coach.
Put a request on the classifieds board?
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
DJ, I removed mine and made new ones out of plywood that I laminated on the inside so I could configure them to fit under the cabinets toe kicks and however else I could conceal them, you can see this one under the table.
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/jmblakebus/bus3072.jpg (http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu30/jmblakebus/bus3072.jpg)
They have been working good for over 10 years and much easier to make out of wood then metal since I'm a woodworker ;D
Jason
To facilitate my heater ducts, I raised the tow kick of my kitchen cabinets to 6" and ran the ducts there.
hey guys thanks for the info really appreciate it...Ill get some pics up here and let you know how things go.